“Symbols are the imaginative signposts of life.” Margot Asquith, British socialite and author.

Punakha

Punakha, Bhutan’s ancient capital, is today’s destination, but before we reach it, we’ll need to drive across the Dochula Pass, at an altitude of 10,200’ (almost two miles high!). It’s definitely one of the most scenic mountains passes in the country, with its breathtaking, panoramic views of the snow covered Himalayas. Not only that, there’s a stunning array of 108 memorial chortens (stupas) known as the Druk Wangyal Chortens. High altitude thrills await.

However, as we drove up to the pass, there were only cloudy, grey skies. No snow-capped mountain views today; no views of Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest, unclimbed mountain. It makes me appreciate even more the opportunity of having had my Mt. Everest moment in the skies, back in Nepal.

Alas, we did get a chance to walk around the incredible 108 chortens (stupas), built under the patronage of Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck. The chortens commemorate the victory of Bhutanese forces over insurgents from India during 2003, and honor the soldiers who lost their lives. They’re arranged in a circle, with the highway going all around it.

Why the number 108 chortens? In Buddhism, the number 1 symbolizes the unity or oneness of all beings; 0 represents the emptiness or void in Buddhist philosophy (a state of non-duality) and 8 symbolizes the path of enlightenment, also known as the Noble Eightfold Path.

After a short rest stop, and a particularly good cup of hot chocolate, sipped outside under a cold, cloudy sky, it was time to come down the other side of the mountain.

Royal Botanical Garden

The Royal Botanical Park is Bhutan’s first botanical garden. They’re an important reflection of Bhutan’s commitment to the preservation of nature and biodiversity. There’s currently over 800 species of native plants in its collection; featuring more than 46 species of rhododendrons, which are known to bloom in spectacular colors during spring. That would have been thrilling to have seen, but it’s now autumn and will just have to wait until my next visit.

The garden’s flora is native to the Eastern Himalayas: oak, magnolia, and blue pine trees, along with medicinal plants, wildflowers, and orchids. The park provides habitats for various wildlife species, including red pandas, sambar deer, and a variety of bird species, making it a great spot for birdwatching. However, during our trail walk, not a chirp could be heard warbling.

Lobesa

On the way to Lobesa, we stopped at a local market, and it left me homesick for our local Mexican produce stand, as I looked upon chiles drying in the sun, and a wide variety of fresh vegetables for sale. I purchased some chili flakes and roasted corn that wasn’t sweet.

Bhutanese cuisine uses a variety of mushrooms in its dishes. We had the opportunity of tasting a few of them, and I love the flavor mushrooms impart in making food taste of umami heaven. The market had a large variety of dry mushrooms for sale, but I didn’t purchase any since they weren’t sealed for export.

Lobesa, a scenic village, is our lunch stop that’s located in the fertile Punakha Valley. It’s surrounded by rice paddies, rolling hills, and picturesque countryside. It’s a popular stop for travelers heading to the nearby Punakha Dzong and other attractions in the region and the famous Chimi Lhakhang, also called the Fertility Temple.

Chimi Lhakhang (Fertility Temple)

For centuries, Bhutan has long celebrated the phallus. Long considered a religious symbol, phallic imagery in Lobesa village pervades, as it’s the location of Chimi Lhakhang, aka The Fertility Temple,” a monastery built in 1499. The temple is dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kunley, a Tibetan Buddhist saint who spread the tenets of Buddhism in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Drukpa Kunley was known for his unorthodox and odd teaching methods; often using humor, sexuality, and unconventional behavior to communicate deeper spiritual truths about the impermanence of life and the importance of breaking free from societal norms. He’s also referred to as “The Divine Madman” for his eccentric ways. I gather that he was very fond of his Arat, the traditional liquor of Bhutan.

The Fertility Temple sits on a small hillock, so we took a short hike through rice paddies and rural pathways to reach it. The walk itself provides a beautiful experience in the Bhutanese countryside.
The temple’s fame is its association with fertility blessings. Couples from throughout Bhutan and beyond visit Chimi Lhakhang to seek its blessings.

Walking about Lobesa, phallic symbols are everywhere, especially on walls and houses throughout the village, bringing chuckles from our group. They’re meant to ward off evil spirits and bring fertility and good luck. From what I can see, the whole village is teeming with good luck!

We often repress or ridicule any overt sexual presence, considering it shameful. In contrast, Eastern cultures embrace them as sacred, fertility-related, and even protective; integrating them into religious and social traditions more openly; embracing them. Personally, my views on this matter are more easterly.

Phallic symbols have been present across cultures for centuries. However, their meanings and cultural attitudes differ significantly between Western and Eastern traditions. Here are quick key differences listed, without going into lengthy explanations:

Aspect of Western Cultures vs. Eastern Cultures – as differentiated by “/”

Symbolism: Power, dominance, sexuality / Fertility, divine energy, creation
Religious Attitude: Often suppressed or reinterpreted / Openly embraced in spiritual contexts
Public Perception: Seen as taboo, often comedic, shameful / Celebrated in rituals and festivals, embraced
Examples: Obelisks, Freud’s theories / Classical statues: Shiva Lingam, Kanamara Matsuri, fertility shrines

Every souvenir shop in town sells every type of trinket in full phallic symbolism; if it wasn’t for the fact that the items were so humorous, you would have thought that you’d stepped into a sex shop.

What to buy?! I found a fun, small wooden airplane for my desk; warding off evil spirits (Computer spam, bugs, or hacking?), and to bring good luck. With each glance, memories of Lobesa come rushing back in full, explosive color.

Punakha Dzong, Punakha

Though Thimphu became Bhutan’s capital 70 years ago, Punakha remains the winter capital of the Bhutanese government, specifically housing the Je Khenpo, the head of the monastic body, who relocates to Punakha Dzong during the colder winter months.

Punakha Dzong, aka Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong, meaning “Palace of Great Happiness,” is regarded as one of the most beautiful, iconic dzongs (fortress-monasteries) in the country. It’s strategically located at the confluence of two rivers, the Pho Chhu (male river) and Mo Chhu (female river). There’s the sexual connotation alluded to again.

The palace was constructed in 1637-38 by Ngawang Namgyal, the Zhabdrung Rinpoche, who was the unifier of Bhutan. It served as Bhutan’s administrative and religious center for over 300 years and played a crucial role in the country’s history.

Incredibly, the dzong is built without the use of nails, highlighting the sophistication of Bhutanese craftsmanship. It has withstood many natural disasters, including floods and earthquakes, owing to its strong construction and its careful positioning.

The dzong is not only a religious center, but also a historic and political site, having served as the coronation venue for Bhutanese kings. It’s also where the sacred relics of Bhutan’s unifier, Ngawang Namgyal, are enshrined.

As we approached the fortress from the road, you could see its imposing grandeur. It’s reached by an arched, wooden cantilevered bridge, brightly colored.

At the main entrance to the complex, there’s a steep stone staircase and then an even steeper wooden one that leads up to the landing. Inside the palace grounds are a series of temples and courtyards, adorned with detailed murals, frescoes, and carvings that depict scenes from Buddhist mythology and Bhutanese history.

The main temple features heavily decorated altars and the king’s chair (throne), but like all temples – NO PHOTOS allowed, but in my mind’s eye, I can close my eyes and visualize it in all its fantastic glory.
I’ve been to many temples and churches during my travels, but the majestic 3D carvings of the altar, with its intricate and colorful design, was astonishing.

Punakha Dzong is a powerful symbol of Bhutan’s heritage and continues to serve as a vibrant center of religious and cultural life in the country.

Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery

Taking liberty with Hamlet’s, “Get Thee to a Buddhist Nunnery!” finds us at a Buddhist nunnery and temple complex, located on a stunning scenic ridge overlooking the Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang valleys in Bhutan. We visited during a windy afternoon.

The big winds created a quite a stir with the wildly flapping of prayer flags lining the edge of the mountain; adding a rhythmic sound to this serene and spiritual environment, and to the calmness of its surroundings.

The sanctuary offers nuns the opportunity to engage in religious study, spiritual development, and meditation. In addition, practical training in life skills such as: tailoring, embroidery, and traditional arts and crafts, philosophy, English, and computer studies; thereby broadening the scope of education for nuns beyond traditional religious teachings.

Adding to the tranquil atmosphere, chortens (stupas) and a peaceful meditation garden gave the nunnery further chances to be at one with oneself.

Go ahead call me a wackadoodle, but I could feel the energy level at this nunnery was decidedly different from the other monasteries visited.

Our Punakha hotel for two nights had panoramic views of the Punakha Valley from every room, and an incredibly detailed carved lobby. The buffet meals served were exceptional, as most meals were during the Bhutanese portion, with a combination of traditional and western dishes, all tasting like – “Please, sir, I want some more!”

Our guide, Leki, had a surprise for us before dinner. We were to gather in groups of threes, and with colorful sand provided, created our own mandala as a group.

In my estimation, ours was the most unconventional of the group, as we decided to represent our mandala as a fork in the road, which is what life always offers us – another alternative.

A mandala is a geometric configuration of symbols, often circular, that holds spiritual and ritual significance in various cultures, particularly in Hinduism and Buddhism. In Sanskrit, “mandala” means “circle,” and it represents the universe, with its intricate patterns symbolizing unity, balance, and harmony; with the central point representing the origin or source of all creation.

We all set out to be creative, since mandalas can serve various purposes: to focus attention, establish a sacred space, or guide a practitioner towards spiritual enlightenment. It’s art therapy for relaxation and self-expression. Slow and steady goes it.

The point of the exercise is that we all worked in unity and serenity as one. And who knew … the intensity of creating a mandala would wake up such a voracious appetite?! During dinner we discussed the different approaches to each group’s mandala; each being unique, expressive and creative expressions.

On our way back to Paro, we had to drive back over the Dochula Pass, and once again, it was covered in clouds, so the majestic view of the Himalayas escaped us once more. We did, however, have a surprising lunch stop en route to …

Sisina Farmhouse

The Sisina Farmhouse is a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse located in the village of Sisina, near Thimphu; offering an authentic glimpse into the rural lifestyle and culture of Bhutan. It allowed us to experience traditional countryside hospitality and farming practices up close.

The farmhouse was built using traditional architectural techniques; featuring stone and wood construction, intricate wood carvings, and brightly painted designs. Most are usually multi-storied, with the ground floor used for housing livestock, and the upper floors serving as living spaces for the family.

Upon taking our seats in the courtyard, we were quickly offered a cup of butter tea. Bhutanese butter tea, also known as suja or po cha, is a traditional drink made with tea, butter, salt, and sometimes milk. I was told that in wintry weather, it’s a comforting, nourishing drink, providing a burst of energy. The saltiness and richness of the butter gives it a unique, savory flavor. Let’s just say that it’s an acquired taste, and that I prefer my tea served with crumpets.

Cue the entertainment … a dance troupe, singers and musicians performed a welcoming song called “Joenpa Legso,” usually performed during the beginning of any special occasion; welcoming a guests of honor and to bring luck for the day.

We were treated with a variety of dances and songs, colorful masked dancers, and folk dances from different areas of Bhutan. My favorite, “The Dance of the Yaks,” that made for a very humorous performance. It was time to dance, and we all put on our dancing shoes and joined in.

Afterwards, we enjoyed traditional countryside cuisine, including such dishes as: ema datshi (chili and cheese stew), red rice, and yak stew. Finishing with some Arat, a traditional alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice, barley, or millet. After tasting it, I had an idea that it could make for a nasty hangover – See the Divine Madman above.

Tachogang Lhakhang

Tachogang Lhakhang, is a small, but significant Buddhist temple located along the Paro-Thimphu highway along the scenic Paro River. This temple is renowned for its historical, spiritual, and architectural significance, built by and dedicated to the revered Buddhist master, Thangtong Gyalpo, who’s referred to as the “Iron Bridge Builder.” Not only a man of religion, but he was also an engineer and ironworker.
He’s credited with building numerous iron suspension bridges across Tibet and Bhutan. It’s a private temple, maintained by his descendants, so access is limited.

One of the unique attractions near the temple is the iron chain bridge, which was originally built by Thangtong Gyalpo himself. While the original bridge has been repaired and reinforced over the centuries, the chains used today are believed to be from the original structure.

Tomorrow, we explore Paro and our last days in this magical kingdom.

As seen on the street……