“I’ve kept most of my friends for decades, and I continue to make new friends.” John Grant, American singer-songwriter
Travels bring together people and beget new friends which is exactly what happened visiting the butterfly reserve. Our new friends, Linda and Rita, old friends themselves, both from Minnesota, although Linda resides half the year in Costa Rica. Oh crystal ball, do you see a jungle trip in our future?
We ended up sharing a lively road trip together and quickly bonded. You see, it turns out they were headed to Morelia, too, via bus later the same day of our departure, so we offered them a ride and they jumped at the opportunity.
Loaded up and fully packed we headed out into the wild blue yonder (literally) and for the next 3 hours we chatted, laughed and shared tales of lives lived. What made the ride more eventful was the route taken … our GPS directed us onto the scenic 1,000 Cumbres (Peaks) Road. It wound its way through the rugged Michoacán mountains – with barely another vehicle in sight for over a hundred kilometers. Breathtakingly beautiful.
Eventually a pit stop became necessary and a small village provided a rustic, roadside restaurant. There we all snacked on delicious homemade tacos filled with beans and salsa. The simplest of food at the simplest of settings. Fond food memories are thus created from such unintended encounters.
Later on it was discovered that by taking this curvy mountainous road we doubled our travel time, but the scenery and the company was worth every extra mile!
Morelia is gorgeous! The colonial city was founded in the 16th century, first known as Valladolid (1545 to 1828). It’s located in the north central part of the state of Michoacán in central Mexico. After the Mexican War of Independence, the city was renamed Morelia in honor of José María Morelos, a native son. In 1991, the city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its many well-preserved colonial buildings and layout of its historic center.
And what a beautiful center as we’d discover over the next two days. It was fairly easy topping 10,000+ steps walking from church to church to converted convents, gardens and sanctuaries, palatial mansions turned museum or government offices.
The Cathedral of Morelia is a Baroque-style, Roman Catholic cathedral located in the historical heart of the city. Construction of the church building, using local pink stone, began in 1660, but only completed 84 years later, in 1744.
Silver Galore… The stunning church interior is bedecked in silver throughout (mining was an important industry in Michoacán). There’s an elaborate 18th-century baroque altar frame titled Manifestador de la Plata (Silver-Manifestation). The Baptismal Font, also of silver, was built in a neoclassical-style. A three-meter tall (98 ft) monstrance made of pure silver adorns the main altar and is unique in that it can be disassembled and reassembled. The cathedral’s monumental organ, imported from Germany in 1905, was the largest organ in the Western Hemisphere at the time.
Saturday night the cathedral’s the star of the show ~ it’s the site for a spectacle of light, sound and fireworks promptly at nine. Our trip happened to be perfectly timed to partake in the evening festivities. Families gathered by the thousands enjoying it all; young children gaping in amazement at the sky show.
Templo de Santa Rosa de Lima (Temple of the Roses). This church was built during the second half of the 18th century, in the place where the Dominican Nuns Convent was originally located. Its main altarpiece and central space are covered in striking gold leaf details and ornaments. The inner courtyard has an amazing tree totally covered in ivy, it’s shape resembling a bell.
Palacio Clavijero is the former home of a Jesuit college. The Baroque-style Palacio is today a center of the arts, simple in its architectural beauty of its surrounding pink stone façade. The exhibition rooms were where students received their education during the 17th and 18th centuries, and now used as exhibition and performance spaces.
We lucked out ~ our visit coincided with three very eclectic visiting exhibits. First was a timeline history of the Gaumont Film Company, a major French film studio founded in 1895. It’s the first and oldest film company in the world. Their story timeline was told through film posters – so many easily recognizable and familiar, old film clips and costumes.
The second exhibit featured fabulous pop posters from around the world (including Cuba, Iran, China and even Bosnia and Herzegovina) arranged in thematic groupings: environmental, political, satire, films and food. They were hung by the hundreds three rows deep along the lengthy porticos of the museum. Our necks strained upwards viewing the striking, bold graphics.
And finally, the last exhibit was a feast for the eyes ~ lavish Kimonos! Delicate and intricately designed; exquisite in color – some bold, some subtle – some dating to the 1920s-30s. The point of the presentation was how kimonos have influenced current Mexican designers in their modernistic interpretations. Some of the designs were Fashion Week ready for the runway.
The Museo Regional Michoacano, founded in 1886, its design heavily influenced by French ideas in museum design. It’s housed in a building that belonged to Emperor Maximilian I, and is of ornate Baroque design. Most of the exhibits are about the history of the region with rooms dedicated to pre-Hispanic artifacts and colonial art.
The Casa Natal de Morelos (Morelos’ Birthplace) is the house where José María Morelos y Pavón was born in 1765. The building is a large mansion with a Neoclassic facade and a Baroque interior. The museum contains documents and belongings of Morelos, including ones he signed, money he had coined, paintings and a large library.
Casa de Artesanias, displaying indigenous and local artists; their art for sale is of museum quality and priced to matched. Located in the former monastery of Nuestra Señora del Carmen Descalzo, which was established in 1593. Over time, the church fell into disrepair, but was restored in the 1940s. The rest of the complex was restored and converted to its present function starting in 1977.
Morelia has a Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías, a sweet haven for the sweets lover; the selection of locally produced candy was overwhelming; kiosk after kiosk displayed sugary creations along with local artisans. Michoacán grows much of the ingredients needed to produce all this dulces … including sugar cane, coconuts, tamarind, honey, citrus, nuts, amaranth, etc.
Walking to the Mercado we happened upon “Quesadillas Mary,” a casual food stand/eatery nearby. David asked if we’re coming back here, and faster than a New York minute I replied, sí, sí!” The place sits on a bustling side street, serving foot-long deep fried quesadillas or traditionally grilled on the comal. A selection of fillings commanded close inspection. We selected Rajas (roasted poblano chili and onions), pork in chile rojo and pollo con papas … all joyously washed down with Jarritos fruit sodas (orange and pineapple soda). The deep fried quesadilla easily won napkins hands-down; can I ever eat a regular style quesadilla again?
On the Menu … anything from LU Cocina Michoacána restaurant. We dined there three nights in a row ~ unheard of for us ~ it was that GOOD! Lu is headed by a inventive woman chef, Lucero Soto. Its motto, “Vive una gran experiencia gastronómica Michoacana.”
First night: Tarascan Bean soup, a creamy, dreamy combination of tomatoes, beans, stock and spices garnished with tortillas strips, avocado and ancho chili; Red Chili Chicken with beets, Chile Relleno stuffed with sweet tamale, doused with a lightly flavored cheese sauce; Coconut Cake for dessert with an amaranth outer coating and lime whipped cream (David could have eaten a bowl of just that)!
Second night @ LU … met-up with new amigas, Linda and Rita, for dinner .. with another round of that incredible Tarascan soup and coconut crusted fresh fillet of trout; Linda = squash blossom soup & chicken in a macadamia white mole; Rita = beautiful organic salad topped with caramelized hibiscus flowers and steak in a chunky Huitlacoche (corn fungus) and mushroom sauce; David = an inventive, thinly sliced Jicama rolled & stuffed with Jamaica/hibiscus flowers with a green mole sauce and Pork Ribs rubbed with ancho pepper.
Finally, two desserts suddenly appeared, complimentary from Rose, the owner of the our B&B (more on her – next blog). Here’s where Lu outdid her creativity with incredible ensembles: Corn ice cream with a Pinole sauce topped with a Jamaica meringue disk; cups of guava filled with a creamy cheese ice cream floating in a passion fruit sauce. The flavor combinations, although unusual, were songs to the palate.
I was in a play with a Michuaqueño and he made it sound like a remote, mountainous and inhospitable. However, you mr post makes it look amazing. I guess – life and Michoacán are what you make it!