From Vacas to Huesos … A Day in Guadalajara

Sometimes, especially during these times, you just need to get OUT! Luckily, our friends, Kathleen and John, are like-minded spirits and gladly joined us to enjoy a cultural, dining adventure in Guadalajara. Initial plans began with just a special restaurant chosen, but further expanded with an intriguing visit to a nearby museum (of sorts). Fortunately for us, we chose a Saturday late afternoon/evening trip with the heavens on our side that kept the usual summer rains at bay.

Unfortunately, our GPS app steered us off course by almost a mile to the wrong address en El Histórico Centro – not a problem, our suave group of troopers just hopped into a taxi and headed off to our first stop.

El Palacio de las Vacas, The Cow Palace, is an extravagant old grand dame mansion built at the end of the 19^th century, located in the historic center of the city. It was the residence of Segundo Díaz, a cousin of Porfirio Díaz, El Presidente del México for thirty-one years (ending in 1911). The eclectic style Moorish building has nuances of Moorish and European architecture combined into a gem of a structure with arches, columns, curves, angles, courtyards, and high ceilings. In its heyday, it must have been quite a sight, since its original farm property was a full city block that included stables, and adjunct working buildings that serviced the well-connected, well-heeled family.

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The pioneer Mexican muralist artist, Xavier Guerrero (1896-1974), was commissioned to paint and embellish the walls and ceilings all through the palace when he was just 16 yrs. old; it would take him well over eleven years to complete.

Once inside, we happily cocked and strained our necks looking this way and that way to view the marvelous murals. Sensuous Art Noveau design prevails with many themes: mythological scenes (loaded with eroticism), religion, contemporary social scenes, landscapes, and even some family trip landscapes that the Segundo Díaz family made to Europe after the War.

A private tour was booked (available only en Español) of this eclectic quasi-museum; but first we leisurely enjoyed our cafes in the lushness of the central courtyard, taking in the atmosphere and absorbing the aura of the palace. A kindly Mexican lady guided us slowly throughout its many rooms and salons. It was disappointing to see some of the 100-year-old murals in such deplorable condition. This is because of the patio’s openness to street pollution, and the upper floors sadly suffered from years of neglect.

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In contrast, the murals on the first floor that are away from the street and natural light, retain their luster and details; some of the ceiling artwork looks as if they were just recently painted. 

We continued our meandering upstairs to the living area; carefully climbing the narrow steps built for the much smaller feet of the period; marveling at the fantastic, French-inspired décor, antiques, and the nooks and crannies.

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The history of El Palacio included many owners; it would first exchange hands with Miguel Díaz, Segundo’s brother. Miguel decided to take advantage of the space for different purposes; turning the farm into a dairy, thus having cows roaming within the palace patios; hence, the neighbors giving its unusual name that stuck.

After the Diaz’s, the home would evolve and change its course over the decades: becoming a school for girls, crafts workshops, a theater and whispered to have even been a brothel.

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Mid-century, an owner sadly tried destroying the building. Failing that, he sold the house to an American, who never lived in it, leaving it abandoned once again. In the late ’90s, the property was sold again to its current owner, John A. Davis, also an American. He’d admired it for some time and was eager to finally buy it; selling off all his assets in the US and moving to Guadalajara to rescue the Cow Palace.

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Despite his best efforts, Davis is struggling to save the palace; the murals are still in great danger due to the threat of humidity, sunlight, and even the rumbling of the many buses that pass by in front, affecting the building’s stability.

Revenue is slowly being raised since the Ministry of Tourism has authorized tourist tours and allowing for creative rental use of the property (the Palace becomes a spooky “House of Terror” during October nights for Halloween).

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We were thrilled to have experienced El Palacio de las Vacas and delighted in the many surprises encountered throughout this beautiful treasure of a building. Greatly satisfied, and changing course, it was time to eat! Our final stop awaited us just ten minutes away.

Dinner reservations were at 7:30 and we had time to kill. The restaurant was just off the grand, wide Chapultepec Blvd. and this evening an arts and crafts show was being held in the center median. It was great fun to peruse and there were some artisans that enticed us enough to purchase some of their wares. It was time to end our unexpected strolling; for our main objective at hand was FOOD!

Hueso, or “Bone” restaurant, is a repurposed house located on a residential side street just off Chapultepec Blvd. We entered its gate and what slowly unfolded would be an unforgettable, magical evening of culinary surprises.

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Hueso’s whitewashed walls are spectacularly filled with around 10,000 animal bones and skulls and assorted kitchen utensils. It’s unbelievable and not at all macabre, capturing your attention everywhere you turn to look. The interiors even felt somewhat soothing with the neutral colors. We were escorted up the stairs to a private room; all the while staring at the “art-filled” walls.

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The chef, Alfonso Cadena, found all the bones on a nine-month trip all over Mexico; his brother executed the décor. The exceptional, creative menu features produce, poultry, and seafood from our state of Jalisco and the beef comes from the chef’s home state of Sonora. Attentive, but not obtrusive service followed and we’d dine for the next two and a half hours on a tasty assortment of treats that we all shared in, aka communal dining.

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Herewith, I’ll let the “food porn” photos do all the talking (the mussels with beef stock are to die for).

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All I can say is that it was one of those dining experiences we’ll be talking about for years to come … from the décor to the food and guests all aligned for a glorious night amongst the bones!

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