“There’s a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot.” – Steven Wright, comedian
Who you calling an idiot?! That’s me standing on the shore of Lake Chapala in Petatán, located a scenic, short drive away on the quieter, south side of the lake.
A visit by my BFF, Cyndi, coincided with the annual migration of the Pelicanos Borregones, American White Pelicans. These striking beauties travel from the south of Canada to winter along the tiny isle of Petatán, in Lake Chapala, which is shared by the states of Michoacán and Jalisco. Actually, they’re found all around the lake, and by the Chapala Malecón, to the delight of tourists.
The pelicans enjoy their South-of-the-Border “gone fishing” sojourn from Nov-April. In a single season, up to 20 thousand American White Pelicans can be seen all along the shore.
They’re large birds – they can reach a wingspan of three meters (10’) while from beak-to-tail they measure up to 1.75 meters long (5.7’) and weigh 7 kilos (15 lbs.).
Thanks to the local fishermen, the pelicans will concentrate in large colonies feeding on the tossed leftover remains of fishing. The spectacle is greater during the sunset, when they return to their nests.
We arrived early in Petatán; and as soon as I got out of the car, I was approached by three eager kids who offered me a bucket of what it seemed like cut-up fish guts and heads to feed to the pelicans. A deal was struck for the price of the bucket. I may have overpaid by the smiles on their leader’s face, a young girl, but hey, it would bring immense pleasure of what was about to happen.
With no one else in sight, me and my bucket started a spectacle. Using my best pitching arm, winding up and tossing fish guts out to the waiting, big mouths of hungry pelicans or those just lazily awaiting a free meal.
A feeding frenzy soon followed, as I started tossing more and more food. It was hysterical watching as the gathered pod of pelicans began a maniacal free-for-all, plowing into one another, pushing and shoving to try catching a morsel, desperate for a fishy treat.
It was so much fun that I bought a second bucketful; in the meantime, David and Cyndi stood aside and snapped photos of the ensuing craziness.
With my pitching arm tired, and my hands reeking of smelly fish, it was time to head back to the public washroom. There, a very demanding young kid asked for a 5-peso coin (25 cents, a common amount to use a clean toilet in Mexico). I showed him my filthy hands, telling him to charge the other gringo behind me, aka David. Even after several washings, a slight stench still lingered, but hey, no pain no glory, and I had a glorious time.
In our travels, David and I split up duties … I handle the logistics, he handles hospitality. Who knew that he’d find a pearl of a restaurant with a scenic view overlooking the lake and the tiny fishing village of Mismaloya? Mismaloya comes from the Nahuatl language (Aztec) – a “place where they grab fish with their hands” (see above for that – they should have added smelly to the name!).
El Mirador de Mismaloya Restaurante (meaning the viewpoint of Mismaloya) serves up large portions of local food, delicious and inexpensive. What a find! It’s a large venue and entertains big crowds on the weekends. Today, we shared the restaurant with just two other tables. Coincidentally, a gentleman overheard our English; he’s from Southern California, but has family in the town.
The chunky guacamole was simply and classically made with just tomatoes, onions and jalapeños. Also ordered: ceviche tostada, quesadillas and Milanesa de pollo – all very tasty and extremely satisfying, plus the place offered a very relaxing open-air atmosphere.
Here again, we were treated to another unique pelican show. Somehow, they knew to arrive at the beach below, flying en masse, in ever changing formations – a fascinating sight to watch from our high perch. There appeared to be way more of them than in Petatán. Perhaps they were following us – looking for Sergio to feed them!
Retirement is what you make of your time; if you choose, there’s always something new to do and explore and it can be in your own backyard!
The pictures are just beautiful, the story is great and you two know how to eat! Thankyou you both for sharing your trip.
Those pelicans were beautiful and very grateful for your fishy offerings! As usual, you guys eat like kings – so jealous! Take care and come see us again very soon and bring David, too!