“I’m off to sit on a cliff.”

Nik Kershaw, English singer-songwriter

Before we go out on a Cliff, let’s talk about breakfast. The first, and some say, the most important meal of the day. Staying in a nice B&B usually means a really decent breakfast and the Abode Hotel served up a hearty and delicious British version … starting with a breadbasket filled with miniature croissants, cinnamon rolls and perfectly executed toast. The British sure know how to toast bread just right; always served in a toast rack. I didn’t know this, but the partitions prevent toast from becoming soggy vs. the stacking up method.

Salmon Eggs Benedict, aka a Benny, and avocado toast are both topped with perfectly poached eggs; strong coffee and fruit juice. Fully energized, we were ready to lay siege to our next castle.

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Dover Castle

Dover Castle sits strategically high atop the natural wonder, the White Cliffs of Dover. It’s known as one of the most iconic of all English fortresses; from its medieval keep, the labyrinth of secret wartime tunnels, and the two octagonal Roman-era lighthouses (Pharoses). They’re the tallest and most complete standing Roman structures in England; most likely the oldest building, too.

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For over 2,000 years, first a fort and then castle has guarded and protected the SE English coast and the Strait of Dover. This is the “Key to England,” due to its strategic and defensive significance throughout history. It’s considered the symbolic border with the European mainland and is the shortest sea crossing between England and Europe. Today, the Port of Dover is a major ferry, cruise terminal, maritime cargo and marina hub. 

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Dover Castle was first founded in the 11th century. Henry II (St. Thomas Becket’s nemesis) built the present structure in the 1180’s. He spent lavishly, creating the most advanced castle design in Europe. For the next 800 years, it was adapted to meet the changing demands of weapons and warfare.

During medieval times, the castle played the part of a way station, as hotel, accommodating British and French nobility on their pilgrimage to Canterbury Cathedral, just 16 miles away; paying homage at Becket’s grave site and shrine.

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During the 1600s neglect took over until a massive rebuilding program began at the end of the 18^th-century during the Napoleonic Wars.

With Dover becoming a garrison town, there was a need for barracks and storerooms for these troops and their equipment. The solution was to create a complex network of tunnels about 15 meters below the cliff-top surface (the Hollywood Sign is about 15 m. tall). The first troops were assigned there in 1803. After 1815, military spending was reduced, and the tunnels were then abandoned for more than a century.

The two World Wars would change everything. Particularly, WWII’s outbreak in 1939 saw the tunnels secretly converted first into an air-raid shelter by Winston Churchill and then later into a military command center and underground hospital. Even the townspeople of Dover below were kept in the dark and didn’t know about the goings on above them, deep in the Cliffs.

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In May 1940, Admiral Sir Bertram Ramsay directed the massive evacuation of French and British soldiers from Dunkirk, code-named Operation Dynamo, from his headquarters in the cliff tunnels. Best Picture nominee, “Dunkirk,” portrays this dramatic historic event that took place in the Channel.

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The popular 1942 Vera Lynn hit song, “The White Cliffs of Dover,” rallied the British and the world with these lyrics:

There’ll be love and laughter
And peace ever after
Tomorrow
When the world is free

There’ll be bluebirds over
The white cliffs of Dover
Tomorrow
Just you wait and see

We toured the dimly lit tunnels; there’s 5 levels of them, of which only two are opened to the public. One can’t quite begin to fathom the high level of activity and tension felt by the doctors, nurses and soldiers that were stationed underground during the war. Can you imagine the level of security?! A poster on display reads, “Be careful what you say. You never know who’s on the wires!” As was said, “Loose lips sink ships!”

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The tour incorporates cleverly recreated conversations as sound-bites of nurses, soldiers, and the command center with some film clips projected. An interesting detail added was when you walk through the kitchen/mess hall, you can smell a pot of beef stew on the burners. Being underground started to affect my senses in a phobic way. Nonetheless, it was a sobering experience to learn about this major episode in the war effort.

White Cliffs of Dover

Finally, some fresh air as we emerged from the tunnels; and a short drive away, we’re standing atop the awesome, breathtaking White Cliffs of Dover; along the English coastline facing the Strait of Dover and France. The cliff face, which reaches a height of 350 feet, owes its striking appearance to its composition of chalk accented by streaks of black flint.

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The cliffs are on both sides of the town of Dover in Kent, and stretch for eight miles. A section of coastline encompassing the cliffs was purchased by the National Trust in 2016, to protect it from developers. There are several pathways available, but we chose the short route; today being chilly, grey and blustery with gale force-like winds howling about. So, sadly no, we could not see France.

This was a small discomfort greatly surpassed by the superb, astounding beauty of this natural phenomena. Surprisingly, horses grazing upon the flowering grass made for an unusual sight. They continue a tradition that keeps the ever-encroaching thickets of scrub brush at bay and preserves nature’s balance. Chilled to the bone, we rushed back to the park center and warmed our souls with a nice cup of tea and scones. A major bucket list item can now be checked off.

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Back to town, we rested up and decided where to eat; we’d built up an appetite after all that fresh sea air. There’s plenty of nearby choices, but as we’re exploring around, a corner turned and there’s a youthful queue for a new pizzeria, Franco Manca. Perhaps it’s a good sign, so we “queue up” for food.

Turns out that it’s opening night, with a promotional twist ~ all dishes were 50% off, hence, the student crowds. Now, we both love a bargain, and it was too bad our hotel room didn’t have a fridge or it would have been loaded up with pizza pie!

The eclectically dressed and tattooed manager warmly welcomed us. A chalkboard featured the flavorful and yummy chef’s special sourdough pizza tonight; both of us simultaneously ordered it: fennel sausage, roast potatoes w/onions, British mozzarella, tomatoes and chili mix toppings. It did not disappoint. Picture perfect pizza! And at half-price, such a deal … yahoo!

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A bottle of Sicilian Nero d’Avola, which has to be one of my favorite wines, with its medium tannins and plum, peppery flavors, helped wash it down, and was easily, happily consumed. Cheers!

Up next … Brighton.

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