“The Cappella Palatina … the most beautiful, religious jewel dreamt of by human thought.” – Guy de Maupassant, 19th- century French author

Palermo, Sicily  – Day 4

“Hello, here comes 70’s – I found Alli through Condé Nast,” is what I wrote 15 months ago to David for his wish to “Wine ‘n Dine Sicily” for his 70^th. Alli being our travel agent from Travelista Alli; who created our two week Sicilian experience. At long last, it begins!

It’s a short flight to Palermo, the capital, from Naples. Sicily is a Mediterranean melting pot shaped by successive, conquering occupiers: Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and the Spanish, and others before becoming unified with Italy in 1860, under Garibaldi. What a mishmash, but oh what food they all left behind!

We’ve mapped out a magical Sicilian tour full of wonders: exploring its ancient sites, beautiful Baroque towns, and its art, all while wining and dining our way across the scenic island, swinging down south and eastward … from the Tyrrhenian coast to the Ionian Sea. The excitement was building for the road ahead and what adventures would unfold. There’s no less than seven official UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the island!

All those aforementioned invaders would leave an indelible mark on Palermo’s architecture and, perhaps most importantly, its food, over the millennia. When Italians talk about the city, food and the Mafia are probably its two strongest associations, but usually for very different reasons.

To get an immediate feel of the city, we joined a historic walking tour that ended at Capo Market, where we sampled some of Palermo’s famous street food. We’ll return here again for an official food tour, so I’ll save the culinary details for later; for after all, dear readers, I need to give you time to digest the food feast from Naples, a whole different culinary experience.

Palermo Cathedral

Walking towards Sicily’s largest church, the Palermo Cathedral, officially known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the streets suddenly open up and there it stands – a stunning UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s Sicily’s history written in stone.

The site has been sacred for over 1,500 years. It began as an early Christian basilica, then becoming Palermo’s principal mosque during Arab rule, and finally reconsecrated as a Christian church after the Norman conquest of 1072.

The cathedral that we see today began in 1185 and continued to evolve for the next six centuries; built and rebuilt, a result of Sicily’s layered, rich history. It, too, is the final resting place of Sicily’s kings and emperors.

There’s an old saying in the American South: “The bigger the hair, the closer to God.” I think the Sicilians had their own version, the bigger the church, the more room there was for the spirit of God. Standing in front of the cathedral, it’s easy to see why. The spectacular complex was built to inspire awe as much as faith.

I couldn’t help but think that no other building better captures the soul of Sicily. Every conqueror left something behind, yet none erased what came before. That’s what makes Palermo Cathedral so unforgettable and magnificent.

Quattro Canti

Onto the city’s most famous and picturesque square, Quattro Canti (Four Corners); an octagonal square built between 1608 and 1620. It’s the Baroque crossroads where the city’s four historic districts meet.

Its curved façades, fountains, and statues represent the four seasons, four Spanish kings, and Palermo’s four patron saints. But as our guide pointed out, there are actually five corners – most visitors miss the entrance to a corner church tucked behind one side of the square.

Today, the area is a busy, thriving hub and gathering place packed with locals, tourists, mopeds, and the occasional car, despite being a pedestrian zone. The result is complete and utterly noisy chaos. Welcome to Palermo, Sicily!

Nearby is the Piazza Pretoria, and its monumental Renaissance fountain that’s surrounded by impressive and large, marble statues. The square earned the nickname “Square of Shame” because of the figures’ nudity.

Legend has it that a Huddle of Dominican Nuns, from the adjacent convent, scandalized by the view, armed themselves with sledgehammers one night and removed the offending anatomy from all male statues (Ouch ~ that must have hurt!).

Capella Palatina

Another must-see site within the historic core is the Palazzo dei Normanni (Palace of the Normans), originally an Arab fortress, becoming the royal palace of the Norman kings.

Within it lies the truly magnificent, Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its breathtaking, and dazzling Byzantine mosaics, and remarkable blend of Muslin and Christian artistic traditions. The royal chapel, first begun in 1130, took 13 years to complete. It was worth the wait as it’s breathtaking to behold (see above opening quote).

“The early bird catches the worm.” This is a popular tourist attraction, and our early arrival and being first in line proved most fortunate. It enabled us a short and precious window to cherish the chapel entirely to ourselves, and appreciate its majesty and grandeur in utter quietude.

We luxuriated and marveled at the shimmering mosaics – entire walls are covered in spectacular 12^th-century gold mosaics. We strained our necks to behold the intricate Arab ceilings, and countless, artistic details – all without tour groups pressing around us. As the crowds finally began to pour in, we quietly slipped away, having relished our magical moments in the Chapel. It was truly an unforgettable highlight of Palermo.

Also, fortuitously, the palace was hosting a terrific “Monet in Normandy” exhibition; it included other masters from the Impressionist Period. Since it required a separate ticket, many tour groups skipped it, leaving the galleries wonderfully serene. Monet & me.

How sublime and pleasurable to enjoy the French coast seascapes in near silence before continuing through the palace. A continuously running video played in a separate salon immersed us in the action; with vivid and lively reenactments from the paintings. The sea waters would “rush-in ” to our feet. How cool.

Unlike the Chapel’s religious mosaics, the beautiful Sala di Ruggero, the private, royal bedroom of King Roger, is filled with golden images of animals, trees, hunters, and exotic birds. It’s a spectacular example of Arab-Norman-Byzantine art and culture in Sicily. There’s that incredible, ethnic blend again, as we see over and over.

Teatro Massimo

Teatro Massimo, is a magnificent, grand old opera house, the largest in Italy and the third largest in Europe (behind Paris and Vienna). Opened in 1897 with Verdi’s “Falstaff,” it became a symbol of Palermo’s prosperity during the Belle Époque period. It sits majestically in the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, the plaza that brings all of Palermo together, including the whimsical garden gnomes standing guard out front.

Beyond its grand scale, and great acoustics, the theater features an ingenious, natural ventilation system: eleven painted ceiling panels could open to release hot air through the dome while drawing cooler air inside; essentially a form of 19^th-century air conditioning.

Today, many visitors recognize the theater as the backdrop for the tragic, final scene of “The Godfather, Part III,” filmed on its monumental staircase. And we were there!

Today’s special event being held in the piazza was the Fiat 500 Club Italia’s gathering of vintage 500s, those tiny, cute cars that continue to fit in the most challenging and rare parking spaces. Standing next to one gives you a wonderful, superiority complex!

Street Food!

Simply stated, Palermo’s street food is legendary; often described as intense, hearty, flavorful, and deeply authentic. When planning this Sicilian journey, we set out to experience as many Sicilian delicacies as possible, paired with the island’s excellent wines. Like athletes in training, we’d be foodies with a goal – we’d eat our way through the island! Chomping at the bit – we’re eager to get going.

With our guide leading the way through the lively Capo and Vucciria Markets, we began unraveling those layers as we wandered through narrow alleys packed with vendors loudly promoting their offerings. We stayed alert, trying not to collide with locals, tourists, scooters, and delivery carts while stopping to sample some of Palermo’s most iconic street foods. It was chaotic, colorful, and exactly the kind of experience we had hoped for.

Arancini would start us off – those ubiquitous, inexpensive delights of Italian street food; incredibly delicious, deep-fried rice balls traditionally filled with: ragù, mozzarella, peas, or ham; though today many cooks experiment with creative fillings. In Palermo, they are the size of a baseball, not the tiny versions  found at home. To me, they stirred up fond memories from my youth; as they’re similar to the Cuban Papas Rellenas that I grew up devouring.

Panelle are simple chickpea fritters that were introduced by the Arabs, and usually served in a soft sesame roll. We also tried Sfincione, Palermo’s thick, spongy-style pizza topped with tomato sauce, onions, anchovies, oregano, and breadcrumbs, rather than heavy cheese. While deeply savory, it reminded me a bit of Chicago deep-dish pizza (not particularly my favorite style).

The final savory dishes were the “adventurous” ones and we gave it a go: Pane con la milza, Palermo’s famous spleen sandwich, made with chopped veal spleen and lung seared in lard (everything tastes better cooked in lard!), and served in a salted, sesame bun. Surprisingly, the texture and flavor reminded me somewhat of roast beef.

Stigghiola, another innards delicacy: grilled intestines wrapped around scallions and cooked over charcoal. Chewy and fatty, it was balanced by the sweetness of the onions. David chose to pass on this otherwise delectable treat (Not!).

Will either of these dishes become part of my regular menu back in México? And was I better off having tried these two? No and yes. Would I eat either again? No, grazie. But I wasn’t about to leave Palermo without sampling two of its most iconic specialties; someone had to take one for the team! I’m glad I did. One taste was enough to satisfy my curiosity and add another memorable chapter to our Sicilian culinary adventure.

Time for sweets and the Cannoli, Sicily’s most famous dessert, and here I completely changed my opinion of this classic pastry. Back home, I often found the ricotta heavy and grainy, but in Palermo, it’s incredibly smooth, creamy and light.

The day’s food tour was a real eye-opener to the city’s multi-blended culinary history. Every civilization that ruled the city left behind its gastronomic mark, creating a vital, vibrant cuisine as layered and multicultural as Palermo itself.

Let’s get down to it, decisions, decisions … Naples or Palermo street food? If I had to choose, sorry, Palermo, but Naples won me over hands-down.

The Mafia

Finally, there’s no way to talk about Palermo without touching on the sensitive subject of the Mafia. For decades, the city’s name was closely associated with the Cosa Nostra, the powerful criminal network that dominated much of western Sicily during the 19^th and 20^th-centuries.

Poverty, political corruption, weak institutions, and the control of land and businesses allowed organized crime to become deeply rooted in Sicilian society. Outside Italy, Palermo was often stereotyped as dangerous, corrupt, and entirely “Mafia-controlled,” an image reinforced by films, books, and international media. Violence reached its peak during the 1980s and early 1990s.

The turning point came in 1992 with the murders of anti-Mafia judges, Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, whose deaths galvanized the people of Palermo to stand up to the Mafia.

On our architectural tour, we came across a mural stretching almost an entire city block. Before I could ask about it, our guide solemnly explained that it honored many of the men and women murdered by the Mafia. It was one of those unexpected moments that makes you stop and reflect. It was more than just art – it was a powerful reminder of the courage of ordinary Sicilians who refused to live in fear and helped reclaim their city.

Since then, the city has worked hard to reclaim its identity through civic pride, cultural renewal, and a strong anti-Mafia movement. When Italians talk about Palermo, food and the Mafia are probably still the two strongest associations. Yet after spending time in the city, it became clear to me that while the Mafia is part and parcel of Palermo’s history, it no longer defines Palermo. The city is far more interesting, complex, and resilient than that stereotype suggests.

As seen on the streets …

And food, glorious food …