“See Naples and live; for there seems a great deal worth living for.” – Arthur John Strutt, English painter

SICILY, ITALY – May 2026

And so we begin celebrating David’s (belated) 70^th birthday celebration. It was his burning desire to Wine ‘n Dine his way across southern Sicily for two weeks. Nearby Naples will be our gateway introduction to La Dolce Vita!

Three flights and two long layovers later … we arrived on Italian soil. At first glance, Naples felt and seemed somewhat gritty – as if every building could use a power wash and a fresh coat of paint. But beneath the grime there’s an impalpable beat, and a lively, vibrant spirit.

The city doesn’t hide its ugliness nor its beauty; both come at you all at once, and somehow makes them inseparable. Here, you’re reminded that life itself is messy, loud, and sometimes wearying, yet it’s deeply, defiantly alive, and screaming to the world, “I am what I am!”

Naples began as the Greek colony of Parthenope in the 8th-century BC. Around 600 BC, Greek settlers refounded and expanded the settlement, naming it Neápolis (meaning “New City”), which evolved into its modern-day name, Naples.

It’s one of the oldest, continuously inhabited urban areas in the world; becoming a thriving center under the Roman Empire. After Rome’s fall, it passed through Byzantine and Norman control; emerging in the Middle Ages as the capital of the Kingdom of Naples.

From the 16^th to early 18^th-centuries, Naples was ruled by Spain under the Spanish Bourbons; followed briefly by Austrian Habsburg rule in the early 1700s, before returning to Bourbon control. These periods deeply influenced its architecture, administration, and social structure.

In the 19^th-century, Naples would become part of a unified Italy during the country’s unification under Garibaldi. In more modern times, the city also gained notoriety for the Camorra, a powerful local mafia network that once held strong influence over parts of daily life.

Today, while the Mafia still persists, though much reduced, Naples is better known for its rich cultural heritage, historic center, and dramatic setting near Mount Vesuvius, and is one of Italy’s most vibrant cities; its third largest. It’s also the gateway to the three Bay of Naples tourist islands: Capri, Ischia, and Procida.

Our hotel, the Palazzo Alabardieri Hotel, was down a narrow, one-way, alley-like street located in the elegant Chiaia district of Naples, a central upscale area located on the Bay of Naples waterfront. Our lovely suite is decorated in peach and floral tones; everything in it screams spring.

The building stands on the site of a former cloister belonging to the Convent of Santa Caterina a Chiaia. It took its present architectural form largely in the 19^th-century when it was adapted from its convent origins into a more typical urban palazzo.

In recent decades, the building was converted into a four-star boutique hotel; its historic character preserved while adding modern amenities. High ceilings, moldings, and antique-style furnishings give you the sense of a historic residence.

A short walk from our hotel was the seawall and Lungomare, a pedestrian promenade (in México, we call it a Malecón). Here was our first Italian bites – at the noted pizza restaurant, Sorbillo. It’s both highly loved and fiercely criticized by locals because of how busy it always seems to be.

Their pizza has a light, thin, chewy crust with a beautifully blistered edge, topped with a variety of creative ingredients. Neither of us made the wrong choice with our individual pies.

Italian tomatoes! We had our first introduction to the most incredible, juicy, tasty tomatoes that we were to eat for the next two weeks … an arugula salad topped with fresh cherry tomatoes and a thick chunk of buffalo mozzarella, all bathed in the lightest olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette – no extra salt or oil needed.

I also discovered what would become my drink of the trip: a Limoncello Spritzer. As the weather heated-up, they were a refreshing relief with their slightly sweet, slightly tart flavor of Italian lemons. They go down quite easily!

And how do you finish off such a wonderful meal? With gelato, of course. A small gelateria happened to be right along our walk back to the hotel. David chose limoncello, while I went for fondant chocolate – rich, creamy, and utterly decadent. The first of many gelatos in our future.

If this, our first night’s eats in Naples, was any indication, I can only imagine what the next two weeks in Sicily are going to be like. Loosen up our pant belts and get ready to mangia!

While on our way to Sorbillo’s pizza, we browsed the window display of an eyeglass shop with the most unique designs. A certain pair caught my eye that appeared perfectly suited for David. But first, pizza!

On our return back, we stepped into the small, artisan eyeglass shop of Ottica Massimo Novelli, fourth generation, and family-owned since 1897. Massimo and his wife couldn’t have been more friendly and charming, even with the language barrier.

Massimo proudly pointed out the many photos lining the walls, those of well-known Hollywood male stars that have worn their famous eyewear. Besides their exclusivity, the frames are bendable, as they’re made from a durable resin that Massimo has perfected in shaping his frames.

The pair of eyeglasses that had caught my attention turned-out to be a perfect fit for David. A one-of-a-kind creation that became David’s first souvenir and one that will last a lifetime, too. Our first day in Naples couldn’t have been more delightful.

COOKING CLASS

Emanuela, our cooking instructor, picked us up bright and early for a fun day shopping a classic, old street market and giving us an Italian cooking class in her home. We’re excited, for it’s going to be an immersive day with the Neapolitans.

From the very first moment meeting her, we were completely in amore with our new Italian sister; as she captivated us with her infectious, lively banter and passion for life and most of all, FOOD! An authentic Italian food feast was in store for us.

She’d be our city tour guide for the next few hours – leading us through the back street markets and food stalls of old Napoli; all while teaching us and pointing out assorted tidbits and secrets of Neapolitan cooking.

What we didn’t know then was that our scheduled 9-2:00 market tour/cooking class was only a suggested time frame, and that our day would extend to eight magical hours cooking, laughing, eating, and sharing stories together.

As Emanuela told us at the very beginning, “We meet as strangers, but we will part as family.” As the show-stopping song says from the Broadway musical, “Nine,” “… Be Italian, you rapscallion / Live today as if it may become your last!” That we did.

Before reaching the market, we had spare time before the food stalls slowly came to life. Mauricio, Emanuela’s partner, drove us around the wonderful, wild streets of Naples, as Emanuela, truly an outgoing character, pointed excitedly from one building to the next, filling our heads with stories, history, facts, and little details only a true native could know.

Her love for Naples was contagious. Every church, balcony, alleyway, and weathered building seemed to hold a story, and she told each one with warmth, humor, and such pride. This was an extra added bonus that we treasured.

As we walked through the old Quartieri Spagnoli, the city slowly awakened around us. Scooters zipped through the narrow streets, and shopkeepers rolled-open their shutters for the day ahead.

Emanuela explained how the neighborhood, built during the 16^th-century under Spanish rule, was originally designed to house soldiers stationed near the royal court and port.

Thus, the Quartieri Spagnoli had a reputation for prostitution and vice centuries before Amsterdam’s De Wallen, the Red Light District, became internationally famous.

Over time, it became one of the most vibrant and authentic neighborhoods in Naples, famous for its maze-like streets, colorful hanging laundry, shrines tucked into walls, and an unmistakable Neapolitan spirit. It was an enlivening experience for us and a great introduction to the Italian life – La Bella Vita!

Everywhere we looked, there was another layer of Naples unfolding before us: tiny family-run shops and the famous, blue baskets hanging from balconies above the streets. Emanuela explained how residents lower these baskets by rope in order to easily receive groceries, bread, coffee, or small purchases from vendors below without needing to come downstairs. More than just practical, the baskets symbolize the closeness of the community and the way daily life in Naples spills naturally into the streets.

Finally, the market came alive. The Pignasecca Market, one of the city’s oldest, exploded into motion and sound with vendors and customers haggling and shouting prices, fresh seafood sparkling on beds of ice, and baskets overflowing with gorgeous, picture-perfect fruits and vegetables; many unknown to us. There was wonderful and overwhelming aromas filling the air: fresh breads and pastries, mozzarella, espresso, fried street food; and is that a hint of oregano I smell?

Guided by Emanuela, we wandered from shop to shop as she gathered the ingredients that would later turn into our scrumptious meal. Everywhere we went, she was greeted warmly. Rapid-fire Neapolitan Italian flew across counters as shopkeepers prepared her orders. She’d introduce us to the abundant produce, meats and cheeses. Oh, to be privy to such riches every day!

First came the butcher: fresh beef and ground pork for polpette – meatballs served not in tomato sauce, but in a light lemon-butter sauce, a surprisingly bright and fresh combination.

At the cheese shop, we picked up three local cheeses that would fill our homemade ravioli: mozzarella, ricotta di bufala campana, and scamorza, a hard pear-shaped cheese with a delicate, smoky flavor.

Then came fresh, vine-ripened tomatoes for bruschetta, along with a new discovery: fragolina del bosco, tiny wild strawberries no larger than blueberries, deep red and intensely fragrant. From here on, we’d notice them in the markets and atop pastries in the bakeries.

At the salumeria, Emanuela selected capocollo, a rich, marbled, and slightly spicy, dry sausage; along with cicoli, a classic Neapolitan pork specialty made from rendered pork scraps that are pressed into a savory loaf. Savory it was.

We followed her through the crowded market carrying heavy bags of food; making one final stop at the bakery, where rows of tempting breads and pizza slices filled the shelves. It’s a good thing we didn’t nosh our way through the market, instead keeping our appetites sharpened for the coming feast.

Mission accomplished, we drove up the winding streets to her home, but not before one last stop – a breathtaking view of the city below and Mount Vesuvius in the distance. Plus, an important must-stop for a quick stand-up at the counter for an espresso fix.

David and Emanuela somehow started a conversation about New York City and fashion. Turns out that her father had a popular, high-end line of Italian shoes, Maraolo, which is the family name. They were especially popular from the late 1970s through the 1990s. She mentioned that one pair is on display in the MET shoe collection in NYC.

Maraolo Italian boots, 1988, Metropolitan Museum of Art

David, working in the NYC fashion world back then, knew of the brand, and as we wound along the twisting roads, they talked fashion and NYC; proof positive that it’s indeed a small world. She remembered her first trip there as a child vividly.

Emanuela’s spacious home is located in the Posillipo neighborhood, a scenic residential area with luxury villas and dramatic sea cliffs. It’s been home her entire life. From her terrace, you get stunning, postcard views of the Gulf of Naples with Vesuvius and the isle of Capri across the water.

Once settled in, things got serious and the Taskmaster took charge. By now, we were joined by two lovely couples debarked from a cruise in the port; becoming part of the aforementioned “Family.”

First, we made a limoncello tiramisu, a break from the traditional version; beating the eggs and sugar, soaking the ladyfingers, and assembling our own individual desserts. It was surprisingly simple to make.

Then came the crazy-good meatballs: a mix of pork and beef, hand-selected and freshly ground at the butcher’s, seasoned with lemon zest, salt, and pepper.

Instead of the traditional red sauce, they were served in a rich lemon-butter sauce, transforming the dish into something unexpectedly light and bright and so deeply comforting. Mama Mia! That’s a nice-ah meatball! This recipe needs to be recreated back home.

We got a quick lesson on the proper use of cooking with sunflower oil vs. olive oil. This was good to know since we’d buy several bottles of premium EVOO and now knew not to cook with them except in a few special cases.

Afterwards, our workspace became a flurry of flour as we mixed and kneaded the dough, stuffing it with a blend of the three cheeses we had picked up earlier at the market. The results were little, perfect heavenly pillows. The tomato sauce that accompanied them was beautifully simple: just a few cans of the best San Marzano tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, and a brief, slow simmer.

Nothing was left to waste. With the leftover pasta dough, we made a type of fried ravioli resembling an empanada, filled with a bitter, homemade lemon jam and dusted with powdered sugar.

Once everything finally came together, the feast began al fresco on the expansive terrace with the view to die for …

… an antipasto of bruschetta; a simple yet flavorful dish, with its assorted toppings. It was accompanied by a selection of cold cuts purchased earlier, and tasty red vino made by Mauricio’s family. Then came the meatballs, the ravioli, tiramisu and fried ravioli for dessert.

To end the meal, we sipped two types of citrus liqueur: the always yummy limoncello and an orangecello; both homemade by Emanuela; the orange being my favorite. It was smooth, with an elegant and pleasing aroma.

Of course, the finale was a shot of good Italian espresso, enjoyed with the unforgettable views and tastes of Naples, crowned by Mount Vesuvius. What a glorious Napoli day it’s been. What a fantastic introduction to Southern Italian cooking!

Remember, at the beginning of our day, Emanuela mentioned that we met as strangers, but by the end of the day we’d be family, and that’s exactly how it went. Here’s to “La Dolce Vita!”

As seen on the streets…