“All roads lead to Rome” Alain de Lille, French poet
Roma … and how to see it in just an afternoon. David’s only request for his third visit to the Eternal City was that he finally wanted to go to the spectacular art treasure, the Borghese Gallery. So being the noble gentleman that I am, made all the arrangements; pre-purchasing tickets online and arranging transportation by train from Civitaveccia port to Rome.
NCL offers a six hour shore excursion to maximize one’s free time in the city. The fare seemed pricey, but arriving at the train station I soon realized why. We’d travel in a private coach from another era with rich, red leather seats for the short 45 minute ride into Rome and St. Peter’s rail station, with a short walk to the Vatican Basilica.
Our travel guide suggested walking, that it’s just 30 minutes to the Borghese located in the “Central Park”of Rome. Well, we shall see …
We strolled Roman streets beginning from the Vatican, but not before stopping for pictures, stumbling upon the famous Castroni Caffe, whose inviting window display featured only a wall of chocolate bars – how could I stop David? He used a lot of self-control to not let loose in the gourmet shop. However, had we had time …
Heading onward we’d need fortification and fell into Pazzi di Pizza. Slices are sold by the gram in Rome … you point to the sheet of pizza, the attendant cuts the size you want with huge scissors and you stand and enjoy the crazy good pizza. OH – how to ever eat pizza again outside Roma?!
We managed to get in some culture, too (seemingly around every corner) .. as the 17th-century “Twins of Rome,” Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto, sitting grandly side by side on the Piazza del Popolo, suddenly popped up with a quick side glance through immense doors/gates. It was still early and the commanding scope of the nearly empty plaza was breathtaking to take in.
The two symmetrical Baroque churches are similar in external appearance, but vary in their details, both internally and externally. This vanity project was created by Cardinal Girolamo Gastaldi, whose crest is present in both churches and whose family money financed them.
The rest of the enormous plaza contains: an Egyptian obelisk standing in the center with its four mini-fountains, each comprising a lion on a stepped plinth, surrounding the obelisk. It’s flanked by the Fontana of The Seasons and The Fontana del Nettuno.
Winding down our whirlwind excursion, heading out of the Piazza and into the nearby Borghese Gardens … our supposedly 30 minute walk became 2 1/2 hours as we finally reached our destination. My inner voice had kept screaming, “Taxi, taxi, taxi!”
The Borghese Gallery is housed in the former villa of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the nephew of Pope Paul V (reign 1605–1621). This art museum contains a substantial part of the Borghese collection of paintings, sculpture, ornamental art along with Roman and Greek antiquities. David’s major interest lied with the six masterworks of Caravaggio (unfortunately, two paintings were on loan in Nagoya, Japan). There are about only 60 known works by Caravaggio … making the Borghese’s 10%!
Scipione Borghese was an early patron of Bernini and an avid collector of works by Caravaggio, who is well represented in the collection by his Boy with a Basket of Fruit, St. Jerome Writing, Sick Bacchus and others. Other paintings of note include Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael’s Entombment of Christ and works by Peter Paul Rubens and Federico Barocci. It’s said that what Scipione could not commission or purchase, he stole it. You can’t “swing a cat” (apologies CC&S) at the Gallery without coming across a masterpiece by Bernini.
The Borghese includes twenty rooms across two floors, but what awed me were the frescos painted on the ceilings. Tourists strain their necks and crunch into small places to look up – similar to the Sistine chapel. For me, craning my neck and feasting my eyes on the Borghese ceilings, and walking away with a crick in my neck is more preferable.
A special exhibition of decorative arts by the architect, Giuseppe Valadier, was on display. These were beyond extravagant and only added more to an already over-the-top experience. Valadier was also responsible for the layout of the Piazza de Popolo.
We spent an hour of meandering and revisiting favorite rooms … it’s quite a visual feast to take in. Our timed entry restricted us to just two hours anyway.
A 10£ taxi ride took us back to the Vatican City … that’s two countries in one visit!
Vatican City, although always the center of Catholicism, was not officially the world’s smallest sovereign state (wholly [holy!] enclaved within Rome, until the Lateran Treaty of 1929. Within its walls are religious and cultural sites such as St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, and the Vatican Museums. They feature some of the world’s most famous paintings and sculptures. I visited them on a prior trip, but long lines prevented us in today’s short visit. Instead we soaked up the grandeur of St. Peter’s Square. There’s a brand new bronze sculpture, “Angels Unaware,” dedicated to the world’s migrants in a boat movingly facing towards St. Peter’s.
A short walk took us back to Italy and The Mausoleum of Hadrian, usually known as Castel Sant’Angelo. It was originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. The building was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle, and is now a museum. The structure was once the tallest building in Rome.
We crossed the flooded Tiber River using the travertine marbled Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge, completed in 134 AD, with its five arches, three of which are Roman. The bridge is now solely pedestrian, and provides a scenic view of Castel Sant’Angelo.
After a gluttony of history that fed our minds, and before boarding the train back to the ship, there was just enough time to feed our Italian souls .. we found a charming bar with a conveniently attached bakery and pizzeria. We ordered two half pints of Peroni Grand Reserve on tap; having a flavorful, robust body that paired perfectly with s’more slices of delizioso crusted pizza.
Arrivederci Roma!
On the Menu … we skipped formal dinner … why oh why would we want to ruin our tasty Italian treats we savored today?!
The Borghese Gallery sounds and looks amazing. We haven’t been there; there is just too much to cover in Rome! Those pizzas look so yummy; we also found them delightful when we were there. So glad you are enjoying good weather. We are preparing for heavy rain Wed. and Thurs. (Thanksgiving). Can’t wait! P.S. Glad you didn’t swing any cats!