Davids – A Bali Adventure
Bali ~ a magical journey truly extraordinary and exotic beyond imagination. An adventure filled with amazing sights, smells and inescapable, sheer thrills. An amazing itinerary exposed remarkable culture of the Balinese; a beautiful, serene people of good heart and big smiles. Bali certainly lays claim to being Paradise found. Bali is known as the “Island of the Gods”.
The Balinese are mostly Hindu followers and it pervades nearly every aspect of traditional life. Everywhere are the symbols of their devotion and belief that the gods and goddesses are present in all things: temples and shrines galore, daily floral and food ritual offerings placed anywhere and everywhere there’s habitation … sculptural icons abound. A positive karma pervades. Flowers do flourish to great show.
It’s an island of overwhelming sensibilities. Motorbikes dart about everywhere like mosquitoes for it is the most common mode of transportation for its 4 million plus inhabitants. And it seems to be the world’s marketplace; artisan skills and crafts abound. Silver, kite making, wood carving, stone sculpture and of course, batik are just some of the creative offerings. Wonder where Pier 1, Cost Plus, Target, Wal-Mart, etc. conjure up many of their goods?
…after almost 20 hrs. Of flying time and upon arrival we indulged in Balinese Massages. The Pita Maha Resort is an intimate and verdant compound with private villas (complete with plunge pool). Side by side massages took place outdoors on a pool side pavilion overlooking a ravine and lush green forest; the only sounds being the river below and hypnotic Gamelan Rindik music softly playing in the background.
There were to be many highlights throughout the 8 days spent in Bali. The 1st began the day after arrival we met with Mr. Ketut Liyer, “Medicine Man, Painter & Wood Carving”, 94 yrs. young, is now the famous healer (dukun) featured in “Eat Pray Love”.
It was a great surprise since our tour description was devoid of his mention. Who’d a thought our trip would land us sitting across from him! He foretold our fortunes through palm, back-of-neck and knee readings and through the eyes. His were sharp and direct. We shared an intimate bonding and felt the privilege and honor to have been in Ketut’s presence. It was pure delight to spend time in his family’s compound (we met his son and heir to the practice). On departure we left somewhat spiritually levitated (on a wing and a prayer?!) and fortunate to have photos to verify.
An aside: the day of departure from Ubud the movie folk arrived to begin the ‘Love’ portion of the film (with star Julia Roberts).
The evening’s agenda included an outdoor show of the famous Kecak Dance. 36 male singers provide mesmerizing trancelike background vocal singing (sans musical instruments) to the epic Ramayana story (Good vs. Evil) the highly costumed actors danced through the dramatic storyline. Simply electrifying performance!
THE HIGHLIGHT for me was our visit to Tampaksiring Temple. It was our fortune to be in Bali during Galungan ~ a major festival celebrating Good prevailing over Evil. The ubiquitous black & white cloth everywhere reminds the fine line between the two. Spectacular offerings were lavishly displayed throughout the temple area. We were dressed in our Balinese finest garb ~ stylishly selected sarongs and sash ~ smashing!
Our guide supreme, Agung, located a priest to preside over the ritual. Prayers, followed by a Hindu purification ceremony at the mineral sacred waters atone for past sins and “clearing” for future decisions. Following the short, seated ceremony we then “jumped” into the cool, waist high waters along with gathering throngs of the devoted, wading to dunk our heads and bodies under the 11 spouts of fresh, spring water representing the purification. What can I say, but: Exhilarating, Joyous, Fun and Raucous. We were welcomed strangers amongst the smiling masses at one of their most sacred rituals. What a sensational and unbelievable thrill!
The afternoon (& afterglow) of this jam-packed day brought us to Tanah Lot Temple on the ocean. During high tide it’s inaccessible. The Temple is a highly photographed, well known treasure and is truly picturesque amidst its surroundings. Lunch was alfresco nearby on a bluff overlooking the sea. We chose our fish to be grilled (giant prawns, whole fish & squid). An intoxicating blend of sun, sea and succulent seafood spread was the ticket to further divinity. What could be more refreshing in an overheated, humid climate than a darn good cold beer? Indonesia’s national treasure, the ever present Bintang Beer must be mentioned here since much was consumed throughout our (hot, humid) tropical trip.
What better follow-up than monkeys on our backs! At the sacred forest Alas Kedaton. For peanuts they’ll jump you. Incessantly. But beware the monkey. He’s no fool. Caution dictates you to keep open hands by your side to show you’ve got nothing to hide. Hmmm. Made for hysterical photos.
A day fulfilled: mountains, lakes, waterfalls, terraced rice fields, Temples. There’s no ending to this Island Paradise.
Food. Stop. Now’s the time to extrapolate the bounty that is Bali. One delicious food feast after another. Lightly and fragrantly spiced. Purest ingredients locally grown. Red rice, black rice, sticky rice, water spinach, long beans…tangy & spicy sauces, palm cane sugar & coconut. Bright, juicy fruit that tastes like fruit and 100% fresh juice drinks! Just heavenly, glorious food.
Agung’s village, Pacut, population 200, was Highlight #3 . . . located in central Bali’s rice fields. Here we became immersed in the culture and daily lifestyle. We became hat makers – creating our very own straw hat of a single green palm leaf. We became florists – creating floral basket for daily offerings made from a cut leaf, bent and shaped & filled with flowers. And then to work – becoming rice farmers – plowing the mud field behind a team of bulls; planting rice stalks in rows and wondering when, where the cultivated rice will end up in the world. We became musicians – playing alongside and instructed by the village men of the Gamelan Orchestra. These gorgeous, vintage instruments (worth a small fortune) produce a trance like music that’s quite addictive and you fall quickly under its lively spell.
Sergio, ever the Star, bewitched the crowd. He worked “the room” (an outdoor pavilion) to acclaim. And believe me, this was a tough crowd to win over. His Bali Boogie’ng dance steps were quite the sight. They’re still talking about it to this day! Photos again show proof positive the unadulterated FUN we had. The Toast of Pacut.
And now we take leave to spend 3 days on the SW coast and to Highlight #4 ~ Tugu Hotel @ Canggu Beach. Here the ocean’s strong surf attracts surfers galore. Tugu ~ is a museum-like, art-filled small and intimate hotel by the beach. Its beauty lies in its peace and quietude with an attentive, ever-smiling staff that caters to every request. Meals are delivered anywhere desired on the property: by the fish-filled lotus pond … in opulent, Asian antique filled rooms and oh what joy ~ by the beach! Our 2nd floor suite overlooked the ocean and dramatic, vivid sunsets! This is what is meant by dying and going to heaven.
2nd Balinese Massage ~ this time the ocean’s roar was our musical accompaniment as we were just a stone’s throw away. Again, petite ladies performed their magic and worked away the stress (?!). Their technique included being atop the table and actually on our backs (better than monkeys ( > ;
Now for Highlight #5 and the festival up at the mountain temple Batukaru. It’s now the zenith of Galungan (a 10 day affair). The entire island is fully festooned. Penjors, tall, highly decorated bamboo poles adorn the outside front of homes (their version of Christmas trees). Village boys take the Barong dragons door to door, collecting coins and gifts, banging away on their instruments.
Meanwhile, back on the mountain, a mass of humanity descends upon the temple attired in their finest clothes and jewels to bring their offerings/receive blessings/honor their ancestors. Prayer services, processions, songs, dance performances by costumed children created a multi-faceted event ~ a feast for the eyes and for the soul! And oh what lucky souls we were to be able to observe up-close this solemn, but joyful gathering. This was the real thing and not some ticketed Event created for tourists!
#6 & #7 . . . memorable meals . . . “private” BBQ seafood dinner by subtle candlelight steps from the sea. A bountiful platter filled with grilled fresh lobster, giant prawns, squid and a juicy whole grilled fish each! Dressed in our native sarongs ~ how sublime.
Tri, our adorable waitress, provided the most attentive service and with her radiant smile.
Life is good.
How to top this . . . our final night’s repast … in the exquisite, candlelit “Red” room. High ceilings. Billowing red sheer fabric hangings. Chinese/Balinese antique furnishings. Here we dined privately like Kings. Or were we dreamy, drunken sailors?
We were high on life and the dream of a lifetime’s adventure.
Bali Hai.
