“Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.” – The Buddha

Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal

Come along with me as I start a sky-high journey to the top of the world … Nepal sits landlocked in South Asia, nestled between China to its north and India to the south, east and west. Given its unique geographical features, tourism plays a vital role in the economy, with visitors coming for trekking, mountaineering, its rich cultural experiences and incredible wildlife.

This Hindu nation is known for its stunning natural beauty, being home to 8 of the world’s 14 highest peaks, including Mount Everest, the tallest mountain on Earth. In the southern part lies the lowland area featuring fertile plains and where Bengal tigers and Asian rhinoceroses roam – who knew?!

Hinduism is its predominant religion, followed by Buddhism. It’s the birthplace of Siddhartha Gautama, aka The Buddha, making it a significant pilgrimage destination for followers. Nepal is also home to a wide range of ethnicities and languages.

I was lucky enough to be visiting during Dashain, during which families gather together and celebrate their traditional rituals and offerings to the gods. The festival of Dashain is dedicated to the goddess Durga and symbolizes the victory of good over evil .

Incredibly, Nepal was never colonized by any foreign power, even the British Empire, which ruled much of the Indian subcontinent. Despite several conflicts, Nepal has maintained its sovereignty. It was ruled as a kingdom only until 2008, when it became a federal democratic republic, with a multiparty system and a President as the head of state.

Kathmandu, Capital City

My expectations were low for the Kathmandu International Airport (KTM); fully expecting chaos. However, acquiring my visa and clearing immigration was a snap; though security clearance after immigration was a bit odd, and retrieving luggage was, well that’s an hour-long plus story that I’ll spare you from.

First impressions? Kathmandu, the capital, reminded me of India, with its organized chaos, bright colors, and the noise, but it’s a much cleaner city. Tradition meets the modern, offering a rich tapestry of history, religion, art, and adventure. It all adds up to a fascinating destination; its charm and energy are palpable.
Kathmandu is a vibrant and historic metropolis; its metro area population is currently 1,622,000.

It’s long been a rich, cultural and political center of the region; with its ancient temples and shrines standing alongside modern developments, all creating a fascinating blend of the old and new.
The beautiful Newar-style architecture, with intricately carved wooden windows, brick buildings, and pagoda style temples create a unique cityscape.

The coexistence of temples, stupas, monasteries, and shrines is a hallmark of the city’s spiritual landscape. The 2015 earthquake caused considerable damage to many historical landmarks, but restoration efforts have been ongoing to preserve its heritage since.

The surrounding Kathmandu Valley, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, surrounded by the majestic Himalayas. The valley includes seven groups of monuments and buildings representing distinct aspects of Nepalese culture and history. My visit would include seeing them all.

But first, it’s time to meet my eight traveling companions for the next 18 days. And what a wonderful, diversified group it was: Julia (St. Louis), Michael and Diana (Seattle), Jessie and Peter (outside DC), Cathy (north of New Orleans), Oriana (N. Carolina) and Jian (Phoenix) … all well-traveled souls, excited and ready for a thrilling adventure. We started as strangers, but within a few days everyone was looking out for each other like family. Writing this, I miss them all.

Swayambhunath, The Monkey Temple

Perched high on a hill, offering a panoramic view of Kathmandu, stands Swayambhunath, known as the Monkey Temple. It was established over 2,000 years ago, making it one of the oldest religious sites in Nepal. It’s a steep climb of 365 steps to reach the top, making it a spiritual journey for many visitors.

Swayambhunath is another of the four UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal. It holds deep symbolic and spiritual significance, representing the universe, with its dome symbolizing the earth, the pinnacle representing the realm of enlightenment, and the eyes symbolizing Buddha’s omnipresent wisdom.

The vast complex consists of a large stupa, several shrines, temples, and many smaller structures.
I had to admit I was fascinated by the actual monkey business going on around me. I was surprised how docile the animals were, but found it’s due to being well-fed by the temple’s monks.

The Rhesus Macaques certainly add a dash of humor to the religious symbolism of the temple experience.

Durbar Square

Durbar Square is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its architectural grandeur, cultural significance, and intricate craftsmanship. It’s one of many collections of royal palaces, temples, courtyards, and shrines in the heart of the old cities of Nepal.

These squares were historically the sites of royal events, religious ceremonies, and important public gatherings. Durbar Square was the royal palace of the Malla kings and later the Shah kings. It houses the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex, where the kings of Nepal were crowned and lived.

We visited the residence of Kumari Gharaa, an actual living goddess. The Kumari or “Living Goddess,” is a unique tradition in Nepal where a young prepubescent girl is revered as the earthly embodiment of the divine feminine energy. This archaic practice is deeply rooted in the cultural and religious fabric of the Kathmandu Valley.

The selection of Kumari is meticulous and involves several criteria, and the candidate must hail from the Shakya or Bajracharya clan of the Newar community. She should exhibit the “32 perfections;” which include specific physical attributes, like courage and freedom, and free from any of history of illness.

Once chosen, the Kumari resides in the Kumari Ghar, a specially designated house. She remains indoors, leaving only for specific ceremonial occasions. Daily worship rituals are performed, and she is adorned in red attire with symbolic makeup, including a “fire eye” on her forehead. Devotees seek her blessings, believing she possesses the power to cure illnesses and bring prosperity.

As we all gathered in the courtyard awaiting her blessings, with constant reminders that no photography was allowed, she appeared at the window and then quickly disappeared; this because some Western moron was snapping pictures. He was surrounded by security and the photos removed from his camera. May his karma be blurred photos for the rest of his trip.

Sadly, he ruined the experience for the rest of us, as none of us in the courtyard received her blessings. We’ll just have to go forth, keep calm and carry on!

Btw … the Kumari’s divine status ends upon her first menstruation, as it signifies the loss of purity. Afterward, she returns to normal life, and a new Kumari is then selected.

The Kumari tradition symbolizes the intersection of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs in Nepal, representing purity, power, and protection. Despite modern societal changes, this ancient practice continues to be a vital aspect of Nepalese heritage.

A wild pedicab ride took us through the crowded streets of Asan Bazaar, a historic market area in central Kathmandu, where locals buy everything from vegetables and spices to clothes and electronics. It’s also known for selling traditional Nepali and Tibetan goods.

At times I thought it might be easier and quicker to just get out and walk, but what an experience, as my driver dodged cars, motorbikes, cyclists, and pedestrians; all the while I’m thinking how many toes he just ran over!

Lunchtime and it included a demonstration of the iconic Momos (remember, I’m an old “pro” at making Momos). Jian, our fellow traveler, took over and reverted to his childhood in China, where he was taught to roll out the dough for dumplings – Momos’ cousin. He did an excellent job, and we all enjoyed the fruits of his labor.

Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath, also known as Boudha, is one of the largest and most significant Buddhist stupas in the world dating back to the 5th century. It’s a major pilgrimage destination for Buddhists, especially Tibetan Buddhists and tourists. The Stupa is surrounded by prayers flags. I will discuss those in the Bhutan part of this adventure.

The stupa is massive, at 118 feet, and a diameter of about 328 feet. Its white dome (which represents the earth) is topped by a gilded tower with the all-seeing eyes of the Buddha painted on each side, symbolizing Buddha’s omnipresent wisdom.

The iconic eyes, often called “Buddha eyes,” gaze out in all four cardinal directions, representing the Buddha’s awareness of all that occurs in the world. Above the eyes is a symbol resembling a question mark, which represents the number one (unity) and the path to enlightenment.

The stupa is built in a mandala shape, reflecting the Buddhist cosmos. The spire consists of 13 steps that symbolize the path to enlightenment, culminating in a small, golden pinnacle. Pilgrims from around the world visit Boudhanath each year, and walk around it in a clockwise direction as a form of devotion and meditation (a practice called “kora”). As they walk, they spin prayer wheels, and offer prayers.

In Buddhist practice, you walk around the stupa in a set of numbers 1, 3 or 8. Each number holds a symbolic significance – being on a tour, and with limited time, I performed 3 complete circles.

As I began spinning the prayer wheels, at first, I felt judged – oh, here’s another tourist just doing it. But, by my third spinning wheel, all imagined judgement disappeared; feeling only the resonance of all the millions of prior spins. All that matters is the action of that spinning wheel and the calmness of its effect.
Circumambulating a stupa – walking around it in a clockwise direction – is a form of devotion and meditation.

The number of times can vary, but common practice dictates the 1,3, or 8 circuits. Each number holds symbolic significance:
One time represents the unity of the Buddha’s teachings and the singular path to enlightenment.
Three times symbolizes the Three Jewels of Buddhism: The Buddha, the Dharma (teachings), and the Sangha (community).
Eight times reflects the Noble Eightfold Path, which outlines the steps toward spiritual liberation.
These practices are believed to purify negative karma and accumulate merit, contributing to one’s spiritual progress.

Surrounding Boudhanath are numerous monasteries (or gompas) representing various schools of Tibetan Buddhism. We attended a private blessing ceremony.

The area has a lively atmosphere with Tibetan shops selling traditional artifacts, thankas (religious paintings), prayer beads, and other Buddhist items, along with cafés and restaurants.

While busily taking pictures, I heard our guide speaking on the “whispers” (headphones), saying, “Let’s go!” and when I turned around they were all gone to participate in a prayer ceremony and blessing. I could hear him through the whispers, but there were too many doors, and all the signs are in Nepali. My question: How can you possibly miss me in a group?!

I stood waiting and enjoyed watching the devotees, as they spun the wheels in their walks.
By the time our group came out, I was fuming, and approached our guide, having a private conversation. Let’s just say that he’ll never leave anyone behind. There was an unseen benefit in the experience, as Buddha intervenes, and I had my own private prayer and blessing ceremony.

Tonight’s dinner will include a folk-dance troupe, a great finish to a fantastic day. We’ve got an early morning flight.

As seen on the streets….