“I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library.” – Jorge Luis Borges, Argentine writer

Dublin, Ireland

With Iceland’s wonders now but a living memory … The Emerald Island beckons us with its unending beauty and adventures. What a stark change in landscape! After landing, we were off and running on our three-day, jam-packed weekend in Dublin, before joining our Gate 1 Travel, “11-Day Irish Culture tour.” So much to see and so little time!

It’s thrilling to be back in buzzing Dublin after more than twenty years. The city greets me with a mix of the familiar and the new … such as The Spire, the sky-high needle commands and demands attention with it’s a striking, monumental presence in the middle of O’Connell Street, smack in the old city center.

Some locals call it “The Stiletto in the Ghetto,” “The Nail in the Pale,” or “The Rod to God,” but it has grown into a familiar and quirky symbol of modern Dublin. The Docklands now gleam with glass and steel towers as a financial and cultural hub.

Yet beneath all the changes, the Dublin I remember still lingers everywhere … the beautiful Georgian doors, bold colors against multiple shades of bricks, the calm of St. Stephen’s Green, and the local pubs (seemingly one on every block!) still hum with the aroma of Guinness wafting through it all.

Two decades on, I’m walking with David and rediscovering these streets not as a visitor, but as someone catching up with an old friend.

“Publin” has moved far beyond pub grub with independent coffee shops, creative bakeries, and a thriving restaurant scene having blossomed. The population has grown (over 1.5 million), and the city feels more international now. What never changes is the open-hearted warmth of Dubliners.

After dropping off our luggage, a Hop-On Hop-Off, or HOHO, bus tour draws us aboard. It’s the perfect, fun way to reconnect with the city and discover the new. We whizzed by famous landmarks; all the while, David’s gone picture crazy from our bus’s high vantage point.

His travel responsibilities include seeking out the best of food and cultural highlights. He struck gold with “Riverdance 30 – The New Generation,” playing a three-month, summer-long theatrical run being performed at the historic 1871 Gaiety Theatre. Having both seen the original Michael Flatley shows way back when, it was time for a revisit. Btw, the original Riverdance premiered at the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest.

Riverdance is legendary; having been a force that swept Irish dance across the globe. I recall seeing it at L.A.’s Pantages Theatre in 1996. As I slipped into my seat 29 years later, a sense of déjà vu overtook me, not only returning to Dublin, but re-experiencing once again how something as simple as a dance, would change how the world saw Ireland, its people and cultural-beating heart.

Tonight, it’s alive again … as the lights dimmed, and the first musical notes sounded, then the thunderous roar of the dancers’ feet with their incredible, synchronized dance manuevers, gave me goosebumps.

I’d catch myself smiling, tapping my foot, and leaning forward, as if I was seeing it anew and in a different light.  

The current dancers are younger than Riverdance itself, and still, they carry on its fire with wild exuberance and such glee. Their dancing souls are the same – proud, fierce, unstoppable. It’s thrilling!

Upon the finale, the entire theatre erupts and rises to its feet, clapping in rhythm. All about me, everyone’s caught in the same spell; all carried along by the same joyful high spirits.

Stepping back into the Dublin night, I realize this wasn’t just a performance, it was a homecoming, both for Riverdance and for me.

St Patrick’s Cathedral

St. Patrick’s Cathedral looms large in the heart of Dublin, on the site where Saint Patrick is said to have baptized converts in the 5^th-century. Founded in 1191, it’s the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland and the country’s largest church.

It happens to be conveniently kitty-corner from our hotel; allowing us to fall out of bed and hop on over, getting an early entry before the huge crowds descended.

As you approach, the prominent, soaring Gothic spire immediately draws your eyes skyward; it being the tallest in the country. The stone walls, weathered by centuries of Ireland’s lusty weather, offer a sense of its solidity, endurance and solemnity.

Once inside, its vastness takes your breath away as you begin walking the nave; as it suddenly opens up with its towering, Gothic vaulted ceilings and beautifully illustrated, stained-glass windows.

The windows (and the chapel within) tell vivid, biblical stories of saints, Irish history, and faith followers. They warmly and gloriously bathe the space in a soft, colored light, providing an ethereal ambiance. Thankfully, our early arrival guaranteed us quietude and serenity for a bit of time before the masses poured in (and they did).

One’s eyes are overwhelmed with the bountiful details: intricate, medieval floor tiles, the historic Door of Reconciliation, colorful, historic banners of the Knights of St. Patrick, the elaborate chancel (clergy and choir area), and the exquisitely carved choir stalls.

It’s important to note that St. Patrick’s is not Roman Catholic, instead being the Anglican Church of Ireland since the time of Henry the VIII’s English Reformation. Named for Ireland’s Patron Saint, both Catholics and Protestants feel a strong and powerful sense of pride and connection to it.

That’s what I felt while wandering about this iconic, religious edifice … feeling Ireland’s historic, innermost core: its medieval faith, literary genius, national struggle, and modern community life … the breath and soul of a proud nation comes together under its soaring roof. “Erin go Bragh” ~ Ireland forever!

Jonathan Swift (1667-1745), writer of “Gulliver’s Travels,” was Dean of St. Patrick’s from 1713 until his death. His tomb lies here. Not only was he a gifted writer, but he also fought hard against social injustice.

He’s famously quoted as saying, “May you live all the days of your life.” And this, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” I’d do both while dining in Dublin – slurping oysters down while living it up!

Right next door to St Patrick’s Cathedral stands an incredible and stately building…

Marsh’s Library

Marsh’s Library is a book-lovers’ heaven. It was established in 1707, by  Archbishop Narcissus Marsh, and holds the distinction of being Ireland’s very first public library. It was created to offer a place of study to anyone who could read, unlike other libraries that were restricted to universities or churches.

Within its hushed, intimate atmosphere are over 25,000 books and approximately 300 manuscripts; spanning topics from theology to science, literature, and more. Remarkably, it still features its original fittings, including seating and shelving.

The bookcases are made of quarter-plained Baltic oak with carved and lettered gables. In some of the bookcases there are bullet holes from the 1916 Easter Rising when Jacob’s Biscuit Factory next door was occupied. 

David was fascinated to hear that the library holds significant Judaic holdings of early Jewish and Hebrew books and bibles, Talmudic texts and Yiddish works. One happened to be splayed opened on display to glance at.  

While slowly perusing the aisles, suddenly, a strange figure appeared unobtrusively on a bookshelf – a tiny Lego character was randomly sitting there. Huh! How very odd. I asked a docent about it, and she explained that the library offers a fun, interactive activity known as the LEGO minifigure hunt for kids.

So, like a kid, I picked-up a scavenger sheet, and David and I set out in search of these historical minifigure characters that are hidden in plain sight throughout the library, but only if you squinted hard enough.

We looked up, down, and even inside display cases to spot figures such as: James Joyce, Jonathan Swift, Grace Marsh, Emily Lawless, Cicero, and the quirky, Maurice the Mummy. Sadly, between our four eyes, keen eyesight escaped us … having found just four LEGOs. Nonetheless, we left happy and contented with our mini results. We needed a sharp-eyed kid with us!

Stepping into Marsh’s Library is like walking through a living, breathing time capsule, with its splendid and imposing interiors, distinct scent of aged leather, and literary heritage; all creating a unique and immersive experience. Just breathing in the air made us feel smarter!

A small, floral garden sits just outside, providing a lush sanctuary to sit and contemplate, or for some stimulating reading, or just kibitzing or schmoozing (Yiddish!), but the only stimulation I saw were two young lovers smooching away tucked into a corner!

In the late afternoon, our dear friend, Arvada, joined our Dublin weekend activities to continue exploring this cultural, vibrant city together. We met her seven years ago in México, but she’s moved on and is now experiencing an altogether different life, living in Morocco.

Trinity College and the Book of Kells

Trinity College Dublin, officially “The College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth,” is Ireland’s oldest and most prestigious university. It has a rich and complex history dating back to the late 16^th-century. It’s also home to the Book of Kells, one of the world’s greatest, cultural treasures.

Queen Elizabeth I of England founded the college in 1592 during the Protestant Reformation. For its first two centuries, Trinity was almost exclusively attended by Protestants; Catholics were largely excluded, though technically allowed to attend after the 1793 Catholic Relief Act. Women were admitted for the first time in 1904, with the first female scholars recognized in 1905.

There’s several tour options to choose from – the “Trinity Trails and Book of Kells” package spoke to us. It begins at the iconic, 1850s Campanile (bell tower) in Front Square and concludes near the Old Library, home to the Book of Kells.

The Trinity Trails tour is a guided walk through the historic campus, led by enthusiastic, current students or recent graduates. Besides imparting their own experiences attending the college, they provided us with great insights and juicy tidbits of the university’s rich history, architecture, and notable alumni: Jonathan Swift (author of Gulliver’s Travels) and Oscar Wilde, playwright, poet and bon vivant, are just two.

The “Sfera con sfera” (Sphere within sphere) sculpture by the recently deceased, Italian artist, Arnaldo Pomodoro, sits boldly on the main library’s outdoor podium. It’s one of 45 he created worldwide. The bronze sphere is a large, complex sculpture that commands attention, and is a prominent meeting place on campus. Here ended the official tour. Up next …

The Book of Kells is one of the world’s most famous, medieval manuscripts and a masterpiece of Irish and Christian art. Celtic monks created it around 800 AD; likely originating in a monastery on the island of Iona in Scotland. It was later brought to Kells, Ireland, after Viking raids threatened its existence.

It’s a richly decorated, illuminated manuscript, written in Latin, of the Four Gospels of the New Testament (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John), with elaborate illustrations and calligraphy.

Considered the pinnacle of the artistic style that flourished in the British Isles and Ireland between the 6^th to 9^th-centuries, The Book blends Christian iconography with older Celtic and Anglo-Saxon patterns, colors and stylized animal and human motifs.

Currently, two pages of the Book of Kells can be viewed: one richly illustrated, and one just of text; both displayed in a specially designed, climate-controlled case in the Old Library’s Treasury. Surrounding the room, are blown-up, digitized copies that surround and envelope you as you walk through the darkened, hushed maze of illustrations and text. The atmosphere feels sacred with its historic treasure.

After the 2019 Notre-Dame Cathedral fire, Trinity College had a wakeup call. The Book had survived Viking invasions, the dissolution of monasteries, and centuries of wear, but can the building survive a fire?!

Thus, the Old Library Redevelopment Project has begun and the library closes at year-end to begin the full-scale process. Glad we had the chance to of seeing its hallowed halls before then.

A temporary structure has been erected during the library’s redevelopment – a striking, red pavilion called “The Book of Kells Experience.” Think “Van Gogh: The Immersive Experience” and you’ve got the idea.

This version features multimedia exhibitions, digital interactives, and storytelling on the manuscript and Trinity’s broader collection.

I learned that the Book of Kells was never finished, with some pages remaining incomplete. Did the monks just stop writing? Or, possibly, was it because, “The Vikings are coming! The Vikings are coming!” It remains another of history’s great puzzles.

The 18^th-century Old Library, is a significant, Irish cultural landmark. It’s home to the Long Room and Ireland’s oldest harp, the Brian Boru Harp, dating to the 1300s, and donated to the college in 1782. The harp’s image has been used by Guinness to identify its Irish beer labels since 1862.

Built between 1712 and 1732, the Long Room features an iconic 19^th-century barrel-vaulted oak ceiling, dark, oak shelves, and marble busts of famous thinkers; alltogether creating a rich and majestic atmosphere. 

Its priceless book collection is now undergoing an extensive, comprehensive, multi-million dollar, conservation effort and restoration. This is due to: air pollution, dust buildup, fire hazard, and aging infrastructure. All the books, numbering in the hundreds of thousands, are being carefully cleaned, tagged, and relocated into secure storage.

During my first-time visit, the Long Room displayed over 200,000 rare books and the busts of famous scholars. The busts are still there, but most of the books have been removed.

“Gaia,” is an illuminated sculpture of the Earth by artist Luke Jerram, looming over the rear of the Long Room. It measures a staggering 23 feet in diameter. It was installed to showcase the beauty and fragility of the planet.

BREAD 41 – “Love Your Loaf”

By now, we were satiated with Irish history and cultural activities, and in need of a respite; hungering for something satisfying, rich and decadently Irish. David found the perfect, tasty solution – Bread 41, an organic bakery started seven years ago.  

It wasn’t far from the morning’s cultural institutions … down Pearse Street and just under the threshold of a railroad bridge. There we joined the queue. Their baked goods are well-known and there’s a steady stream of eager, hungry patrons.

Once inside, the smell of baking bread and other sweet aromas spark feelings of warmth and comfort, with coffee permeating the air, all energizing the senses … seduction by bread!

The industrial-like space was abuzz; every table was full of friends or family chatting over cappuccinos, and fresh-baked delectables; the locals queuing for takeaway loaves.

Each of us would take a turn to scope out the wide selection of breads, rolls, pastries and assorted sweet treats, and then return back in line; savoring what we’d order.

Finally, it was my turn at the counter to order for the three of us, and it was a good thing, too, for if I had to wait any longer, I’d have kept on changing my mind.

David ordered a savory focaccia slice topped with butter, sundried tomato spread, and pine nuts; along with Bread 41’s signature, sweet star, the “Cruffin,” a hybrid pastry made by baking laminated, croissant dough in a muffin tin, giving it a muffin-like shape and spiral design. It oozes a sweet creme.

Arvada ordered a luscious, butter-oozing cinnamon roll. As for me, their sourdough baguette called-out with its beautiful, crusty brown appearance – so a ham and cheese sandwich it was. We all had cappuccinos to wash our goodies down.

Online reviews mentioned the queues, with lines curling out the door. But no one seemed bothered. I overheard one woman say, “I can’t start the weekend without my 41 sourdough!”

Bread 41 isn’t just a bakery, it’s a ritual for Dubliners … lucky be the Irish!

Merrion Square

Merrion Square, is a garden square lined with elegant 18^th-century Georgian townhouses. On one corner stands the Oscar Wilde House, at One Merrion Square North. Across the way, in the park, sits the statue of Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), facing towards his childhood home.

There he lies, life-sized at 6’3”, sprawled-out on a large, quartz boulder, grinning in that half-mocking, half-charming way he’s famous for. His rakish position recreates the aura that always surrounded him when alive; making him standout, like he’s still determined to be the center of attention, even 125 years after his death.

The sculptor created his image totally from international, colored stone: his bright green jacket is nephrite jade from the Yukon, the pink collar is rare thulite from Norway, his legs are Norwegian blue pearl granite, there’s white jade from Guatemala, and finally, black Indian granite complete his fancy garb. Oscar wears a Trinity College old boys’ tie, his alma mater. 

Scattered around Oscar are stone pillars carved with his witty and clever quotes; some being typically sharp-tongued, while others are surprisingly thoughtful. While sitting on a park bench reading them, it gives you a sense that Oscar’s still in the conversation … he’s still in the house!

How queer to think that he grew up just across the street – imagine walking out your front door and seeing your younger self forever immortalized in the park?!

The square itself is lovely, filled with quiet paths, tall trees, and plenty of spots to just sit and people-watch, and while away an afternoon.

Sweny’s Apothecary

Dublin’s extensive, literary culture continues … once leaving the square, we stopped into Sweny’s pharmacy, a well-preserved 19^th-century Victorian apothecary. It was made famous by its appearance in James Joyce’s novel, “Ulysses” (published in 1922). Sweny is now a bookstore and shrine to the Irish author. Devoted Joyce fans maintain the premises as volunteers.

Stepping inside the tight quarters, it felt like walking straight back 100 years. The wooden shelves are still lined with jars and bottles, lotions and potions; typical for a Victorian era’s apothecary, complete with a dusty, faint scent of polished wood and paper.

The enthusiastic, knowledgeable volunteers run the shop, and are warm and friendly, and full of vivid stories. They encourage customers to sit for a spell and “speak Joyce.”

Every day, they read aloud from his writings, and happily chat about the shop’s history; making it feel less like a retail establishment and more like joining in on a tradition. They strongly encourage you read the classic tome. Perhaps someday, if a volume should fall my way …

David’s pilgrimage to Sweney’s included buying a couple of bars of their famous lemon soap. It’s a kind of literary souvenir at a precious 5 Euros a pop. The bar is small, wrapped-up in simple paper, but it carries a bright, clean, citrus scent sharp enough to make you smile the moment you open it.

Joyce immortalized it in Ulysses when Leopold Bloom (protagonist and hero), while waiting for the pharmacist, smells the lemon soap on the counter and decides to take a bar with him. Carrying it for the rest of the day, the soap becomes his lucky charm and a key part of his famous journey. David, too, left the shop in hopes of a four-leaf clover kind of a lucky day in Dublin.

National Gallery

The National Gallery includes a galaxy of famous artists: Goya, Degas, Vermeer, Jack B. Yates, Monet, Picasso, Rembrandt, and even a rare Caravaggio!

We spent some time wandering its spacious salons. The building itself is bright and airy, with big open spaces that make you want to slow down and just take in the magnificent art collections. There’s a wide range within its walls – everything from Dutch masters, French Impressionists to Irish painters, with a few modern pieces that surprise and catch you off guard. Admission is free!

David is a great, big fan of Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, known simply as Caravaggio (1571-1610). The National owns one of his paintings, and so, off we went in search of “The Taking of Christ,” a dramatic and dark masterpiece. It has a unique pedigree … having been lost for centuries before being found in 1990 in the dining room of a Dublin Jesuit house! Imagine that, dining under a $200 million painting and not knowing it.

No luck in our fruitless search (Sweny’s “lucky lemon soap” proved otherwise). Finally, a docent would provide the answer. We were in the right salon, as he pointed to a wall with an oversized, subbed painting, and in his heavy Dubliner accent, informed us that “The Taking of Christ” was currently on loan-out to the Vatican.

In conjunction with the Catholic Church’s Jubilee Year 2025, there’s a once-in-a-lifetime special exhibit, “Caravaggio 2025,” featuring an unprecedented gathering of his works from museums around the world. It was designed to highlight the connection between the artist’s work and Christian spirituality, coinciding with the Jubilee’s religious themes. BUMMER!

Kilmainham Gaol

From high-to-low, art-to-jail … a Dublin must-see is Kilmainham Gaol prison. Tickets sell extremely fast when they open up for sale at midnight, Irish time, 28 days in advance of the day. We’re seven hours behind in México, so by the time I woke up, signed into their website, the tickets were gone. Bummer!

However, I was also aware that any unsold or unclaimed, reserved tickets go on sale for same day admittance at 10 am Dublin time. So, while on our Trail Tour of Trinity College, I was busy trying to score three tickets; once I got confirmation, I shared this bit of fortune with David and Arvada – aha! – the lucky lemon soap worked after all. We’re going to prison!

Kilmainham Gaol, now a museum, originally opened in 1796, closing in 1924. For over 100 years, it held thousands for crimes that ranged from minor offences, to being involved in some of the most momentous events in Irish history.

I’m taking the liberty to speak for David and Arvada, as saying that Kilmainham Gaol was a highlight and one of the most moving experiences we have had in Dublin.

From the outside, the building looks heavy and imposing, but stepping inside was something else entirely. The corridors are narrow, the cells stark, and there’s a chill in the air, making one shiver even before hearing its notorious history.

The tour brought the prison to life with stories of ordinary men, women, and even children (as young as three years!) who were imprisoned here, alongside the leaders of Ireland’s great rebellions.

Standing in the impressive Victorian Hall, with its high walkways and spiral staircases, I couldn’t help but think how it looks almost industrial trendy, yet the weight of what happened here never lets you forget otherwise.

The most powerful moment was stepping out into the stone yard where the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were executed. It was quiet, almost haunting, and the guide gave us a moment just to stand there in silence.

I felt history pressing close, not just as names in a book, but as real people who stood for something greater than themselves.

Kilmainham isn’t just history you read, it’s history you feel, and it stays with you long after you leave. It gives you a clearer sense of Ireland’s long, difficult road to independence and its struggles to achieve freedom from the British. It’s a place that lingers with you long after the gates close behind you.

Temple Bar Area

Temple Bar is a lively, historic and compact maze of narrow, cobbled streets and alleyways. Colorful buildings, street performers, and lots of music abound throughout the area.

It’s an entertaining, high-spirited place and with not a few inebriated patrons. It could be said that Temple Bar is the beating heart of Dublin’s nightlife; a tourist hub with nightclubs, restaurants and famous pubs. That being the lively Temple Bar Pub, overflowing with seriously imbibing tourists and locals spilling out onto the street. The food scene runs the gamut from casual bites to gourmet eats.

Another well-known drinking hole, The Palace Bar, is small and unpretentious. Established in 1823, it is one of Dublin’s oldest pubs. All pubs prominently showcase the familiar Guinness signs.

The Temple Bar area has a long history, going back to medieval times, and to make a long story short, the 1950s saw its decline, with many derelict buildings. Eventually, it overcame urban decay with concerted efforts to resurrect itself into the thriving scene it is today.

Now, the streets’ walls are full of murals, eclectic street art and graffiti. Quirky and vintage clothing shops are prolific. We happened upon a hole-in-the-wall Rubber Ducky shop and had to decide which of the many selections to splurge on. A standout was the popular Irish saying, “Feck Off.”

I’ve got my own Temple Bar story of yore to share … it was the early aughts, and after a wild night out on the town, (it’s true, believe it or not, there existed a party boy in me), I’d discovered that I was short about $600.00! Remember, in those days, you’d travel with cash and/or travelers checks.

So, I questioned myself, did I get “rolled” sometime during my rollicking, jolly, good time? Well, fast forward a few months later, on a trip to Thailand, while packing my luggage, I noticed a bulky spot inside, and to my surprise, there was the missing cash. Holy Temple! That Dublin evening remains a blur, but the newly-found greenbacks was a sight for sore eyes.

The Gin Palace

“Of all the gin joints, in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine.” So said Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca.” After a brief detour shopping for bargains in Ireland’s Primark (we’d score), we three went in search of such a joint for an afternoon libation and partake of Dublin’s pub culture, aka PUBLIN! Lucky us and our now lucky charm, Sweney’s lemon soap, as we strolled along Middle Abbey Street, and glancing across the street, was Kismet, The Gin Palace … and a waiting GNT!

This old-school bar’s menu offered the largest selection of gin in Ireland, from around the globe. They had David’s favorite, Malfy Blood Orange Gin from Italy. I experimented with an interestingly named Irish Gin, Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin, that was highly recommended. Its striking blue bottle features oriental botanicals and gunpowder tea: rolled, green tea pellets give it its bold, bright profile. I’m in!

Time slowed and our Dublin experience was winding down. What a weekend! It was festive, and despite cramming a whole lot in, there was never a dull moment – how could there be? It’s DUBLIN!

It was great seeing Arvada and experiencing some good times together again. We wined and dined, shared lots of laughter; creating wonderful, new memories to cherish. “May the road rise to meet you!”

Tomorrow, we join our Gate 1 tour and continue our exploration of the Emerald Isle. *** Special note: Dublin Airport’s Duty Free Shop had both the Malfy and Gunpowder Gins to bring home to our very own Mexican gin joint. “Wherever you go and whatever you do, may the luck of the Irish be there with you!”

As seen on the streets of Dublin …