“I have often said that the lure of flying is the lure of beauty. -“Amelia Earhart, aviation pioneer

Bhutan

Bhutan is a small, mystical, landlocked kingdom tucked away between China to its north and India to the south, east, and west, in the heart of The Himalayas. The country includes Gangkhar Puensum, considered the world’s highest, unclimbed mountain.

Its official name in Dzongkha, the national language, is Druk Yul (Land of the Thunder Dragon). “Druk” refers to the thunder dragon, a national symbol, and the frequent thunderstorms in the region are believed to be the dragon’s roar.

Many other languages and dialects are spoken, as the population is made-up of several ethnic groups.
What’s well known is its unique philosophy of “Gross National Happiness” index, introduced by King Jigme Singye Wangchuck in the 1970s. GNH prioritizes holistic well-being and happiness over material wealth and GNP.

The four pillars of GNH are: sustainable development; preservation and promotion of cultural values; conservation of the natural environment and good governance. This philosophy is embedded in government policy and reflects their happy way of life.

The country was a long-time constitutional monarchy. However, in 2008, a transition to a parliamentary government was made; where now the king remains the head of state, but the prime minister leads the government. The current monarch is King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck.

The monarchy is highly respected, and the king is often referred to as the “People’s King” due to his dedication to the well-being of its citizens. His pictures graze every building and home.

The government has made a strong, concerted commitment to conservation. It’s the only carbon negative country in the world, meaning it absorbs more carbon dioxide than it produces. Over 70% of its land is covered by forests. It’s not Greenland, but it’s certainly green!

The culture is deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism, the state religion. Temples, monasteries, and dzongs (fortress-like buildings) dot the landscape, forming an important part of society. Wherever we went, the architecture is distinctive, with colorful and intricately designed buildings, one more striking than the next.

As you can imagine, tourism is a key contributor to the economy. However, there’s a policy of minimal impact tourism in order to protect its cultural heritage and environment. Visitors are required to pay a daily, high fee of $100 dollars plus, there’s a 20% tax on all purchases. This ensures that tourism is well regulated, sustainable, and keeping to the GNH philosophy.

Travelers and writers have given Bhutan a rather poetic nickname of the “Last Shangri-La.” It’s meant to highlight the unspoiled natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and focus on happiness over material wealth.

But before we can explore and experience Shangri-La, we must first fly into Paro International Airport. God Save the King and all airline travelers!

Flying into Paro

Here’s a harrowing tale to tell. But first, let me say that in all my years of flying (logging over a million flight miles) via small planes to the queen of the sky, the 747, nothing prepared me for the flight into Paro (PBH), Bhutan’s only commercial airport. To say that it was a “horse of a different color” is an understatement.

Due to its difficult, mountainous topography, only a handful of highly qualified, trained pilots are certified to land and take off from Paro. PBH is considered one of the most challenging and dangerous in the world and requires nerves of steel and precision during the landing approach.

Not only is the airport located deep within a narrow valley, but there’s the Paro Chhu River running alongside the runway, adding to the complexity of the landing. The single runway at Paro is about 7,431 feet long, which is considered short for commercial planes to land.

The airport lacks the sophisticated Instrument Landing System (ILS) that many airports rely on for guided landings. This means that pilots must land using visual flight rules (VFR), which require clear weather and visibility along with those nerves of steel.

Now for the harrowing part – the final approach involves several sharp turns, and pilots must fly manually to guide the aircraft through the narrow valley. They navigate close to mountain peaks, sometimes making banked turns as low as 100 feet above ground level before lining up with the runway.

Passengers react in different ways – from awe and excitement to downright fear, given the dramatic nature and difficulty of the approach. And for those preferring window seats, let it be known how close those mountains are. If you could open the window, you could probably touch them!

From my seat, looking towards the window, were stunning views of the Himalayan peaks, lush green valleys, and traditional architecture, leaving me mesmerized.

Personally, it felt like an exhilarating, rollercoaster ride. Hands-down, it was one of the most beautiful, nerve-wracking landings ever experienced, but I wasn’t ever afraid or scared.

The reason being, we were “Flying on the Wings of Dragons,” the slogan of Drukair. As any fan of “GOT” (“Game of Thrones”) knows, dragons can fly!

Not unexpected, the raucous applause upon landing actually vibrated the plane’s fuselage. If we weren’t belted, still seated and somewhat terrified by the landing, the planeload of passengers would have jumped up onto their feet, for a Broadway-style standing ovation for the highly skilled pilots.

The flight lasted just an hour and 15 minutes. In that time, we were served a tasty, boxed breakfast consisting of an egg salad sandwich, fruit juice, blueberry muffin, a bag of peanuts, and a moist towelette. If only the US airlines …!

PBH provides a small, cultural experience upon arrival. The cheerful, welcoming staff are dressed in the traditional gho and kira (the national dress for men and women), and its interior design elements immediately gives travelers a taste of what’s to unfold while visiting Bhutan.

While waiting for my luggage, I overheard a woman passenger mention to her travel companion, “I didn’t know I could hold my breath for so long!” Whether it’s excitement, awe, or a bit of nervous apprehension, the landing at Paro was an unforgettable start to my journey to Shangri-La.

Khada Ceremony

After exiting the airport, our group was met by Leki and Shanzed, our exceptional guide and driver, for the adventures that would await us.

Leki presented us with a welcoming Khada ceremony, which is a symbolic and deeply meaningful gesture. The Khada involves placing a long, rectangular silk or satin scarf around the recipient’s neck or presenting it with both hands, as a sign of respect, goodwill, and blessings. This humble gesture is often accompanied by a slight bow, symbolizing deep honor. A Bhutan-styled Hawaiian “Lei,” if you will!
Our group received white scarves, representing purity, compassion, and good intentions. While white is the most common color offered, khadas also come in other colors.

We headed into the capital city of Thimphu, (pop. 144,000; the whole country has less than 800,000 inhabitants.) a one and a half hour drive along narrow, mountain roads perched on the side of jaw-dropping cliffs. The whole country is built on the sides of majestic mountains, not for the faint of heart (Hello, David!).

First stop is lunch – a delicious buffet laid out before a spectacular valley view. I can only pray to The Buddha that if our first meal is a good sign of the meals to come, then we’re going to eat darn good.
There was time to relax upon checking in and to explore our surroundings. An orientation got us acquainted with our exceptional guide; followed by another satisfying buffet meal. A good night’s rest and we were raring to go exploring Thimphu.

The city is located in the Wang Chhu Valley in the western part of the nation, and is surrounded by lush, green hills and mountains. At 7,656’ above sea level, Thimphu is the 3rd highest capital in the world – behind La Paz, Bolivia and Quito, Ecuador. It just occurred to me that I’ve been to all three, making me a high-altitude type of guy!

The capital city has distinctive, traditional architecture with modern development. The streets are lined with traditional shops alongside modern cafes and boutiques. Can you believe, Thimphu is one of the few capitals without traffic lights, relying instead on traffic police at intersections.

The National Institute for Zorig Chusum

The “School of Thirteen Traditional Arts,” or The National Institute for Zorig Chusum, was established in 1972. It plays a crucial and vital role in continuing efforts to keep the country’s cultural and rich heritage strong and ongoing as they’ve been for centuries.

This remarkable school is dedicated to preserving, promoting and maintaining the arts and crafts of the nation, making it a key educational center in Bhutan. Students are thoroughly trained in 13 traditional modalities, collectively known as Zorig Chusum.

The 13 arts include: painting, sculpture, woodwork, stonework, carving, lacquerware, blacksmithing, silversmithing and goldsmithing, embroidery and tailoring, weaving, wood turning, paper making and finally, Bamboo and cane craftmanship.

Our tour gave us insight to the programs and gave us the opportunity to visit several classrooms and observe the students as they fulfill their 4-6 year commitment in their chosen crafts.

The training is rigorous and combines theoretical study with practical, hands-on experience. This way, it ensures that not only do they learn the techniques, but also understand the basis of the cultural and religious significance of their work.

By instructing new generations of artists and craftsmen, the institute helps to preserve Bhutan’s cultural identity, especially as modernization and external influences increase. I see this as a fantastic pushback to social media and a win-win situation.

Hmm … now what to buy? I got the opportunity to shop at the campus store and came home with the perfect souvenir – a magnificent throne cover made with a mandala inspired design; made of colorful, hand embroidered silk. It would typically be used as part of the elaborate decorations in a royal or religious setting, reflecting its aesthetics and symbolism.

It’s now mounted and framed and hanging on our wall where I can visualize and recall Bhutan as I pass by it. The handicraft of this beautiful and bold work reminds me daily of the creative Bhutanese. It gives me joy and brightens my day!

National Library

The National Library serves as a repository for Bhutanese heritage, founded in 1967 under the queen’s patronage. It’s housed in a traditional style building, resembling a dzong (fortress), with intricate wood carvings and colorful motifs.

The library’s purpose is to act as a cultural guardian and promote research and education for generations to come. Photography inside the library is forbidden.

Its resources are available to scholars and researchers with its extensive collection of religious texts, manuscripts, modern literature, photos, and historical maps.

The library’s most unique, significant feature is that it’s home to one of the world’s largest published books, titled “Bhutan: A Visual Odyssey Across the Last Himalayan Kingdom.” This behemoth measures over 5 feet by 7 feet when fully opened and weighs over a whopping 130 pounds! The book contains over 100 panoramic images showcasing the stunning landscapes, culture, and the nation’s people.

Cuisine

Moving on to a favorite subject – food! The country’s cuisine offers a vast variety of flavors and ingredients that reflect the geography, climate, and cultural traditions. A most important ingredient are chiles; used for its bold flavoring, and dairy products, particularly cheese and butter.

The large Buddhist population, contributes to a strong vegetarian diet or observe meat-free days, especially on auspicious days.

Chiles are considered a vegetable rather than a spice, and dishes often have a strong, spicy flavor. Rice and maize are staple foods, while meat (such as pork, beef, yak, and chicken) and vegetables form the basis of most meals.

There’s similarities with Mexican cuisine, in the heavy use of the chili peppers; ever-present and considered a main ingredient, not just a seasoning.

The Bhutanese national dish, Ema Datshi, exemplifies this tradition. It’s a stew made of chilies and datshi (a type of local cheese). In México, we’d call it Rajas. “Honey! I’m home!”

Since arriving, I’ve fallen head over heels with this beautiful country and incredible people, and there’s so much more to come. Maybe there is a real Shangri-La, after all.

As seen on the streets …