“I still don’t know why, exactly, but I do think people can have a spiritual connection to landscape, and I certainly did in Iceland.” – Hannah Kent, Australian writer

Akureyri, Iceland

Akureyri is known as Iceland’s  “Capital of the North,” and is one of the easier Icelandic town names to pronunciate. It’s a vibrant, compact city with around 20,000 residents, nestled at the base of Eyjafjörður fjord, only about 100 km south of the Arctic Circle.

It was our port of call for an exciting, grand tour of the north, and its famous Diamond Circle. In the south, we traveled the Golden Circle. Both are geographic wonders designed to showcase some of the most spectacular, natural attractions of their respective regions. I showcase this vivid area for its particular wealth of incredible sights. This was to be the meat and potatoes of what Iceland represented at its finest and most compelling. A visual feast from start to finish.

Booking an outside cruise excursion can prove advantageous vs. sticking with the cruise line’s offerings. Case in point – I’d booked a small group tour through the Viator site, and fortuitously, it ended up being just David and me and a gem of a local tour guide, Þóra Karlsdottir (pronounced Thora); simply known as Thora Love. Lucky us, we had her all for ourselves and no other tourists to slow us down. A dream day to explore!

Car conversation was stimulating. As it turns out, Thora is a distinguished, and well recognized international visual artist; renowned for her eclectic and stimulating exploration of her art through drawing, sculpture, and mixed media. She’s an artist, mother, educator, athlete, world traveler, and activist. Little did we know how lucky we were to be in the capable, creative hands of this Renaissance woman.

Thora’s art is represented in several prestigious collections, including the Reykjavík Art Museum, the National Gallery of Iceland.

A quick drive-through of Akureyri’s charming downtown provided the chance to view one of her fantastic and thought provoking art pieces; as it’s prominently displayed on the sidewalk outside the Akureyri Art Museum for all to see.

Akureyri’s downtown features cozy cafés, modern restaurants, and the iconic and delightful, heart-shaped stoplights, a standout symbol for the town, and another example of Iceland’s great show for spreading positive vibes and inclusivity (e.g. Rainbow Streets!).

How can one get upset or impatient because the traffic light is taking too long to change when you’re staring at a cute red heart ❤️ Another Icelandic quirk.

For the next six hours, we found Thora a passionate, animated and well-versed local guide, providing us great insight on an extraordinary tour of her neck of the country. What a day awaited us!

As we headed out of town under grey skies, the Vaðlaheiðargöng toll tunnel beckons. Opened in 2018, it’s a major engineering feat with its 4.6 mile long blast through the surrounding mountains. It enables the city and seacoast to connect to the outer fertile valleys. Importantly, it also avoids the dangerous and steep mountain pass, which is prone to avalanches during the winter months, closing down the old road.

We emerged triumphantly from the tunnel six minutes later into full, warm sunlight and began our Diamond Circle loop.

Lake Mývatn

Lake Mývatn (pronounced MEE-vatn, meaning “Lake of Midges”) is one of the highlights of the Diamond Circle. The vast lake is one of Iceland’s largest, and most unique destinations, geologically and ecologically, with its surreal mix of volcanic and geothermal landscapes.

A bright, sunny day provided a spectacular view of its expanse and stunning beauty. Off in the distance, a small herd of Icelandic Horses gathered along its shore and made for an enchanting vision.

Lake Mývatn came into being approximately 2,300 years ago as a result of a large lava eruption. As the lava flowed into the region, it encountered wetlands and other lower-lying areas. This interaction between the hot lava and the water resulted in steam explosions, which created a series of distinctive features, including the pseudocraters that are prevalent in the area.

Rich in flora and fauna, Lake Mývatn is one of Europe’s best birdwatching areas, with its gathering of waterfowl, migratory and year-round birds. It’s home to 14 species of ducks including the rare Barrow’s Goldeneye, a striking duck with a large, oddly shaped, oblong head. 

The lake’s namesake, the despised and pesky Midges, are tiny, flying insects that belong to the order Diptera, which also includes flies and mosquitoes. They’re exceedingly small, often just a few millimeters long and are found in large swarms near water, damp areas, or marshy environments.

During summertime, non-biting midges play a vital ecological role. Their larvae usually live in water and are an important food source for fish and birds.

These swarms are extremely annoying, to the point that you might need to wear a protective head net, as they get everywhere. We experienced a bit of their irksome swarming, but thankfully not to the degree at the height of the season.

Skútustaðagígar Pseudo Craters

Our geology lessons continued with the Skútustaðagígar Pseudo Craters of Lake Mývatn. These Icelandic bowl-like gems are strung like a necklace in breathtaking rows; a wholly unique and fascinating geological phenomena to witness.

They were created about 2,300 years ago during lava flows from nearby volcanic activity. Despite their volcano-like appearance, they never erupted.

It goes like this … when hot lava flows over wet ground, such as a lake, swamp, or river, the intense heat causes steam explosions, which then blast-out cone-shaped formations that look like craters, but they’re not vents of any kind.

For unlike true volcanic craters, these pseudo or rootless cones have no end – that is, they’re not connected to a direct magma chamber.

The lake area is dotted with these grassy, rounded cones, and small walking paths offer sensational views of the lake and its geological wonders. Thora led us to a birds-eye view into one of these amazing faux craters.

Godafoss

Iceland is crammed with waterfalls (well over 10,000!), and the Diamond Ring provides a most astonishing one – the fabulous Goðafoss, “Waterfall of the Gods.” Spectacular. Extraordinary. Phenomenal … can only begin to describe these powerful and awe-inspiring waters. Any tourist brochure will inevitably feature it and for good reason. Its commanding presence leaves one utterly awestruck.  

According to Icelandic lore, in the year 1000 AD, the law speaker, Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, proclaimed Christianity as the official religion of Iceland. After his decision, it’s said he returned home and threw his Norse pagan statues into the waterfall, hence the name Goðafoss.

Scenic walking paths on both sides of the river get you close to the falls for stunning photo ops. The roar and crashing waters were unbelievably magnificent and made it difficult to tear ourselves away. But it was a chilly, grey morning and Thora had a nice surprise waiting for us in the nearby Hotel Godafoss and Restaurant … hot coffee and donuts.

These weren’t your corner shop donuts, but an iconic, Icelandic sweet staple of pure goodness, Kleinur. I dub thee king of donuts. A twisted donut. A knot of fried dough, slightly dense and chewy; sprinkled with powdered sugar, slightly sweet, and buttery …what’s there not to love?!

A generous basketful of hot, freshly deep-fried Kleinur was presented to us (as I pushed my popping eyeballs back into my head), and tried not making pigs of ourselves as we happily dunked ‘em into our steamy, hot brew.

A simple treat, but made more memorable besides the majestic, great Godafoss. Life is Good! Life is Kleinur!

Grjótagjá Cave

The Grjótagjá Cave is a breathtaking triple-blend of geological power, historical lore, and pop‑culture appeal. Through its small opening, behold this lava cave, known for its geothermal hot spring – a pool of steaming, hot, clear blue water.

The cave lies within the Krafla volcanic system, which is part of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Iceland sits on the divergent boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, so David and I got to stand straddling different continents at once.

This popular tourist site inspired another well-known Icelandic movie appearance – famous to many as the romantic, HOT “GOT Love Cave;” for it was the inspiration for the romantic scene between Jon Snow and Ygritte in Season 3’s “Kissed by Fire” episode. Hey ~ when you GOT it, you GOT it!

Formed along a fissure in the Krafla volcanic caldera, it’s part of Iceland’s continually rifting landscape. Heated by geothermal activity from magma just a few kilometres below, the water can reach between 43–50 °C, occasionally rising above 60 °C during volcanic activity.

Up until the 1970s, locals regularly bathed here until volcanic eruptions of 1975–1984, known as the Krafla Fires, drove temperatures too high and bathing was banned for safety.

Access to the inner sanctum requires a descent into the cave, and isn’t for the faint of heart and claustrophobes (Hello, David). While you can’t swim in its waters, visiting offers a rare glimpse into an otherworldly, sauna-like chamber and its close encounters with the steamy underworld!

Hverir (Hverarönd)

Add Hverir (also known as Hverarönd) to the list of otherworldly, geothermal wonders of Iceland. However, for me, it will always be simply known as “The Rotten Eggs Fields!” Let me explain …

This remote area is a Hotbed of Hell, with its stinky, forever bubbling mud pots, hissing steam vents, fumaroles (vents in the earth’s surface) emitting sulfurous gases, and its vibrant palette of red, yellow, and orange earth, due to various mineral deposits.

Altogether, a wholly dreadful smelling, combustible combination of ghastly, molten ingredients gathered together. It should be named Witches’ Brew in Icelandic.

Thora parked us and graciously gave us 45 minutes to explore this bleak landscape. Upon opening the door, we were immediately blasted with the distinct and odiferous smell of sulfur; hitting us like a ton of bricks.

Ooh child. I took a quick look over at David, turned around and quickly shot back at Thora, “Keep the engine running. We’ll take a few pictures and be right back!”

The stench became more pronounced and unbearable as we approached the entryway. Standing platforms revealed a surreal, almost apocalyptic landscape – surely that of an alien planet. No vegetation, just steaming, bubbling earth and a surreal color palette stood before us. Time to “Beam me up, Scotty!” In hindsight, wearing a double face mask would have been ideal.

I had to admit that the wild, unearthly, and bizarre surroundings, with their concoction of colors, sulfuric steam, and boiling earth made it one of the most visually stunning, and eerie landscapes in Iceland. It tapped into my senses, but left a stench.

Dimmuborgir Lava Formations

Dimmuborgir, here again, on auto-repeat, is another otherworldly spot. The name translates to “dark castles;” an apt description as it really feels like you’re stepping into a strange, enchanted fortress. This would be a terrifying, and spooky place at night with its stark, grotesque creature-like formations. I could see hosting a Halloween Extravaganza here.

The dark castles were created about 2,000 years ago when a massive eruption flowed over a lake; the water boiled, steam vents formed, and the lava cooled into dramatic towers, caves, arches, and spires, as seen throughout here.

Walking amongst them, you begin to see shapes that almost feel alive; jagged silhouettes rising like ruined cathedrals, twisted columns that look like petrified creatures, and hollow chambers that could be the halls of trolls or elves. The stuff of myths, legends, and folklore.

As we walked its trail and admired its geological beauty, we could not help feeling both playful and mystical … one moment you’re marveling at geology, the next you’re half-expecting to see a troll peek out from behind a lava tower.

It’s then no surprise that Dimmuborgir is tied closely to Icelandic folklore as it weighs heavily here. In particular, there’s Grýla, the monstrous ogress, and her 13 sons, the Yule Lads (if you think the Boogey Man was scary as a child, nothing beats Iceland’s beyond quirky version of Santa Claus). Frightening, but parents delight in the telling of this traditional, cautionary tale to encourage good behavior in children during the cold, and dark Christmas season (with only about 4-5 hours of daylight).

It’s worth sharing this harrowing, but delicious holiday tale … the Yule Lads (Jólasveinarnir) are 13 mischievous Icelandic troll-like figures who visit children during the 13 nights leading up to Christmas. Unlike Santa Claus, they each have distinct personalities, names, and quirky habits; their origins are much darker, stranger, and weirder than your typical jolly gift-giver.

For they are the sons of the troll hag, Grýla and her lazy husband, Leppalúði. The grotesque mother troll hunts and eats naughty children, placing them in her sack, and after returning to her cave, boils them into a stew to be eaten; all the while their bum father remains inactive in their mountain cave. 

Oh, and let’s not forget there’s the vicious, and terrifying giant Yule Cat, Jólakötturinn, who shares the cave and also preys upon and eats those who don’t received new clothes for Christmas. HA! A pretty tale and oh so terribly delicious, right?!  I’m allergic to cats and pray this one stays far away, as I love shopping for clothes!

Traditionally, the tale was told to scare the bejeezus out of the young ‘uns. Now, the modern version is less harsh, and more playful … starting on December 12, one Yule Lad visits each night. Kids leave a shoe on their windowsill. If the child was good, the Lad leaves a small gift or treat. If naughty, they might get a rotten potato.

Finally, on Christmas Day, the last Lad arrives. Each Lad then departs in the same order, ending on January 6, Christianity’s Epiphany date.

I found this so fascinating and the mischievous acts that each Lad performs, and found my favorite one, Þvörusleikir, who arrives on December 15^th and is known as the “Spoon Licker.” I hope cookie dough is his lick of choice!

Here’s a list of the 13 Yule Lads (with English Translations) – choose your favorite:

Day	Name (Icelandic)	Translation	Behavior
Dec 12	Stekkjastaur	Sheep-Cote Clod	Harasses sheep, stiff legs
Dec 13	Giljagaur	Gully Gawk	Hides in gullies, steals milk
Dec 14	Stúfur	Stubby	Very short, steals pots and crust
Dec 15	Þvörusleikir	Spoon-Licker	Licks wooden spoons
Dec 16	Pottaskefill	Pot-Scraper	Steals leftovers from pots
Dec 17	Askasleikir	Bowl-Licker	Hides under beds, licks bowls
Dec 18	Hurðaskellir	Door-Slammer	Slams doors at night
Dec 19	Skyrgámur	Skyr-Gobbler	Loves Icelandic yogurt (skyr)
Dec 20	Bjúgnakrækir	Sausage-Swiper	Steals sausages from rafters
Dec 21	Gluggagægir	Window-Peeper	Peeks through windows
Dec 22	Gáttaþefur	Doorway-Sniffer	Has a huge nose, sniffs food
Dec 23	Ketkrókur	Meat-Hook	Steals meat with a hook
Dec 24	Kertasníkir	Candle-Stealer	Steals candles (once edible!)

The Yule Lads are a quirky, creepy, and fun Icelandic holiday tradition blending ancient folklore with modern holiday cheer. Each one has a story, a flaw, and a purpose, giving Iceland one of the most unique Christmas traditions in the world.

I was planning to bring a few Lads home, but honestly – their figurines were pretty scary, ugly creatures and may have given me nightmares before Christmas.

Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum

A surprising final stop brought us to Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum, an unusual lakeside gem on the northwest shore of Lake Mývatn, dedicated to Iceland’s rich avian life.

The small museum honors Sigurgeir Stefánsson, a self-taught taxidermist who collected the island’s birds and eggs since childhood. Tragically, he drowned in 1999 in Lake Mývatn.

Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum is a heartfelt tribute to one man’s passion, offering a thoughtful, interactive look at Iceland’s vibrant birdlife, in a beautiful lakeside setting. Whether you’re an ornithologist, photographer, traveler, or simply curious, it’s a peaceful, enriching stop on any North Iceland adventure.

He collected over 300 taxidermy birds, representing nearly all Icelandic breeding species, plus some rare visitors and around 500 bird eggs, all beautifully displayed. Specimens include iconic birds like Barrow’s goldeneye, harlequin duck, gyrfalcon, and the great northern diver.

Thora planned another Icelandic treat for us in the small café – their famous Icelandic lava bread, known as hverabrauð, a traditional dark rye bread that’s baked for 24 hours underground using geothermal heat.

It’s a dense, slightly sweet bread made from rye flour; usually sliced thick and eaten warm with lots of rich butter. We were served our slices with smoked char. It was out of this world delish – just one more bite, please!

As we finished our day’s epic loop around the Diamond Circle, I felt as though I’d been walking through Iceland’s very soul. Each stop had its own character … the thunder at Godafoss still echoing in my chest, the otherworldly steam of Hverir clinging to my clothes, the stillness of Mývatn with its mirror-like waters. It was a day of contrasts between raw power and quiet beauty, desolate landscapes and moments of beauty and warmth.

Returning back to the ship, I couldn’t help but feel grateful to have traced this diamond-shaped path across the north, carrying home not just memories of places, but of the feeling of being very small, yet completely alive, in a land that never stops reminding you how extraordinary the earth can be.