“I want to give a picture of Dublin so complete that if the city one day suddenly disappeared from the earth it could be reconstructed out of my book.”  – James Joyce, on writing “Dubliners”

Dublin: The Return

Our Gate 1 Travel tour has completed its incredible circumnavigation of Ireland, returning us back to Dublin; giving us a little more time to explore this enchanting, lively city. One cannot get enough of a good thing!

If Emmett was at ease driving the island’s twisty-turning roads, Dublin was a breeze as he weaved expertly and effortlessly through the city’s traffic. What better way to see it all from a bird’s eye view in our tour bus?! The busy streets hummed with life, offering a glimpse of the city’s rhythm in an easy, fun way without rushing.

Historic Dublin unfolded in quick succession: Dublin Castle with its centuries of political intrigue, Christ Church Cathedral, a Gothic marvel, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Ireland’s largest church, standing proud in its medieval setting.

There’s the massive complex of the old Guinness Storehouse and modern Dublin intertwined effortlessly with Georgian squares, contemporary sculptures, and bustling streets moving in step with centuries of heritage.

More city icons flew by: Trinity College, home of the Long Room and the Book of Kells, with its tales of scholars and poets who once roamed its halls. There’s the ever popular Ha’penny Bridge spanning the River Liffey; Temple Bar, always pulsing with its 24-hour lively and vibrant scene, and in its heart lies our hotel for the next two nights ~ more kudos to Gate 1’s fabulous accommodations.

Liam’s hometown anecdotes brought each landmark to life; from the rebellious poets of Merrion Square to the hidden statues and fountains tucked into secret corners. As the bus passed government buildings, museums, and theaters, I realized the city is more than its landmarks; it’s a living tapestry of stories, past and present, stitched along cobblestone streets and riverside quays; all layered, delightful, and endlessly charming.

EPIC: Every Person Is Connected

The EPIC Museum was established in 2016 by Neville Isdell, a native of County Down and former CEO of Coca-Cola. It tells the story of the great Irish diaspora and its global impact. The estimated global Irish diaspora population is approximately 70 million. Compare that to the population of Ireland itself, which is around 5.3 million. 

The museum is housed in Dublin’s historic CHQ Building, once a bonded warehouse for valuable cargos in the nearby port. The museum sits on Custom House Quay, and the very spot from which many Irish emigrants departed, including during the Great Famine years. Poignant memorial statues stand guard over the River Liffey.

From the moment you enter, it’s clear this is no ordinary history museum. Sleek, interactive exhibits pull visitors into the lives of millions of Irish who left home in search of fortune, freedom, and adventure, in seeking better lives.

Walking through the galleries, I traced emigrant paths from famine-era Ireland to America, Australia, and beyond. Touchscreens, holograms, and immersive rooms made their stories of courage, loss, and resilience feel alive, echoing around every corner.

One exhibit focused on The Famine, showing the devastating choices families faced; another celebrated Irish contributions made abroad, from politics to music, sports to science. Each story felt personal, each name real, and connecting the past to the present global Irish community.

By the time I reached the gallery highlighting the modern diaspora, I felt a profound personal connection. As a Cuban emigrant, I understood deeply the courage, resilience, and longing of leaving one’s homeland in search of a better life, whether for political, economic, religious, or personal freedoms.

The stories of Irish emigrants resonated with my own family’s journey and reminded me how migration shapes identity, culture, and the human spirit across generations. Stepping back outside into the light, I carried with me a renewed sense of connection to all who leave home behind in search of hope, adventure, and opportunity.

The World of Guinness

Guinness rules! No visit to Dublin is complete without stopping into the ever-present world of Guinness, the iconic Irish dry stout, and the Guinness Storehouse (no matter where you are in Ireland, you can’t escape the harp!).

Immediately upon entry, Guinness history unfolds across its seven floors of the old factory building. Much had changed since my first visit – then, it was rawer, and closer to the source experience; focusing on the actual live production similar to what you would experience in California wineries and tequila distilleries in México.

Here, the huge beverage concern, Diageo, has taken on the marketing and merchandising (as we saw last year in Scotland and their Whisky distillers). It’s now an immersive extravaganza tailored for the TikTok and Instagram crowd with its bells and whistles; flashy digitization and commercialization; all hellbent on marketing the Guinness name in every way possible. It’s a Disneyfied glorification of stout in all its frothy headiness.

Founded in 1759 by Arthur Guinness, who famously signed a 9,000-year lease at St. James’s Gate, the museum traces the evolution of Guinness from its humble beginnings to becoming a global giant. Exhibits of copper vats, fermentation tanks, and historic brewing equipment give a sense of scale and tradition.

Interactive exhibits explained how water, barley, hops, and yeast combine together for the perfect example of a stout. Our “VIP” ticket gave us the opportunity to learn the perfect pour of a pint …

Tilt at 45 degrees, fill three-quarters of the way, let it settle, then top it off – simple in theory, delicate in practice. Lifting my own pint, creamy head intact, felt like a small triumph; though I admit, to me it still tasted like mop water (sorry).

The famous rooftop Gravity Bar offers stunning panoramic views of Dublin: the River Liffey winding through the city, spires punctuating the skyline, and rolling hills hinting at the countryside.

The history of Guinness advertising, from the iconic toucan to modern digital campaigns, reminded me how humor, art, and Irish identity have always blended together into this brand. And yes, we exited through the all-things Guinness gift shop; Sir Arthur Guinness would be rolling in his grave, with Walt Disney cheering.

National Museum & Library

Gotta love Irish museums with their free admissions! Our final stops included the Archaeology Museum of the National Museum of Ireland and the National Library next door. At the old (1890), and shabby Archaeology Museum, in desperate need of renovations, were prehistoric artifacts, Viking relics, and best of all, and most haunting, were the incredible ancient bog bodies.

On display were four, unearthed human remains from the Iron Age, dated between around 400 BC – 200 BC, and in remarkably good state of preservation. The exhibition theorizes these were human ritual sacrifices, and thrown into bogs where they were “pickled,” if you will, given the acidic environment.

However, the narrow corridors and stuffy, dim, and crowded rooms greatly tested my patience. After viewing the preserved bodies, some tools and ornaments that told incredible stories of ritual, conflict, and daily life in exceptional detail, we skedaddled out of the stifling and stuffy environment.

The adjacent National Library was conveniently hosting an exhibit on W.B. Yeats; this coming on the heels of following along some of his ancestral roots up north in Sligo just a couple of days ago.

His manuscripts, letters, and personal items traced the poet’s fascination with Irish myths, politics, and love. Walking through, I felt the rhythm of his poetry echo in the quiet halls; with a greater appreciation and understanding of the literary giant.

Goodbyes

Travel has a funny way of turning complete strangers into lovely companions. Over the past 11 days, our small group laughed, shared stories, wrote Limericks, and explored Ireland together: Dublin, the Cliffs of Moher, Shannon Riverbanks, and Sligo’s hills became the backdrop to a shared adventure.

At our last meal, the mood was warm, but tinged with sadness. Plates emptied, glasses clinked, and memories were recounted. Hugs lingered, promises to stay in touch were made, and I realized travel is not just about seeing unfamiliar places, it’s about the people who color the journey.

Three Weeks, Two Islands: A Reflection

Twenty-five days, two islands, countless memories. Iceland’s glaciers, geysers, and black-sand beaches felt otherworldly. Reykjavík’s colorful streets and the Blue Lagoon’s warm waters were only a prelude to adventures across volcanic landscapes and roaring waterfalls. Puffins, steam vents, and endless horizons made every day feel epic – a reminder of nature’s raw power.

From Iceland’s rugged cliffs, we flew to Ireland, trading volcanic peaks for rolling green hills and ancient castles. Dublin’s literary streets, the Guinness Storehouse, and the Book of Kells brought history and culture vividly to life.

Driving through Sligo, Galway, and along the Wild Atlantic Way, I felt the poetry of Yeats, the sarcasm of Wilde in the wind, the rhythm of sheepdogs guiding flocks across hills, and the stories of the Irish diaspora at the EPIC Museum.

Twenty-five days of wonder, culture, and connection, stitched together across Fire and Emerald. The adventure filled my soul, and as my feet turned homeward, I smiled, already dreaming of the next horizon.

As seen on the streets of Dublin…..