“I’m leaving because the weather is too good. I hate London when it’s not raining.”            – Groucho Marx, American actor

London Museums and Theatre

When traveling, it’s important to discover and partake of special events and happenings wherever you land, in order to achieve the most rewarding time spent. London offers much to do. From the get-go, our whole raison d’être for being here was for the beauty of flowers, but allow me to backtrack before the blooms.

“Great art picks up where nature ends,” said artist Marc Chagall. And great art is what we were seeking in London. Prior research turned up the following special museum exhibitions:  John Singer Sargent’s Fashions at the Tate Britain, Elton John’s Private Photograph Collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and Caravaggio’s last painting at the National Gallery. We’re sure to log in some steps!

Weather-wise, you take your bets for fair weather in London. We’d experience the good and bad for our final days in Europe. 

Tate Britain

There are two Tates: Tate Britain and Tate Modern. Under a beautiful, London spring day, we headed out to the former for the special exhibition, “Sargent & Fashion.”  Located on the site of the former Millbank Prison, Tate Britain, founded in 1897, sits upon a serene location beside the Thames River.

John Singer Sargent is primarily  known as a portrait artist. However, he had a considerable influence in the fashion world of his time.

The extensive exhibit would feature both the paintings and the actual garments worn by his subjects. Stare at the painting and it pops to life with the clothing on display next to it. How rich! We were going to enjoy this interplay experience immensely.

The early birds capture empty museum rooms. Being first in line gave us privy to admire his sumptuous paintings in an unhurried, uncrowded manner. Sargent’s attention to detail in clothing, fabrics, and accessories made his works a rich resource for understanding the fashion styles of his era.

Spending time and being up close, we’d get to examine his meticulous brushstrokes, revealing exquisite textures of silk, lace, velvet, and other luxurious fabrics; all highlighting the opulence and sophistication of the garments worn by his high society subjects. His ability to render the sheen of a satin gown or the intricate details of lace made his portraits come alive – you wanted to reach out and feel the fabrics.

Sargent’s subjects were members of the upper class, often dressed in the latest fashions of the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries; from the structured gowns of the late Victorian era to the more relaxed and fluid silhouettes of the Edwardian period. He documented the evolution of style among these elites.

It was said that, at the time ladies bought a dress, it was not to impress society, but as its ability to easily translate into a striking Sargent portrait. Do these portraits not strike you as opulent, rich and dazzling?!

I’ll usually walk into an art exhibit gallery and then quickly focus my eyes on three pieces, then move on, but here, my eyes would dart from one gorgeous subject to another. And in some cases, with the original garment on display nearby, it created an amazing juxtaposition and lively connection between subject, artist and clothing. All in all, a one and only, sensational and memorable exhibition.

There was more to browse at the Tate. Its galleries are famous for its works by artists such as: J.M.W. Turner, William Blake, Dante Gabriel Rossetti, John Everett Millais, and William Holman Hunt, including modern artists Francis Bacon, David Hockney, and Lucian Freud.

After a while, the halls blended into one another, but there was always that one masterpiece that caught your glance to savor.

Victoria and Albert Museum

The Victoria and Albert Museum, aka the V&A, is one of the world’s leading museums. It’s chockablock full of eclectic and incredibly diverse art forms and design objects, including textiles, fashion, ceramics, furniture, sculpture, photography, jewelry, and much more. Its collection spans over 5,000 years of human creativity.

You can spend an entire day here in its vastness, focusing on just a few art pieces per room, and still barely scratch the surface.  There’s so much to entice with each visit. We happened upon today’s star show, “Fragile Beauty:  Photographs from Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection.” It’s a ticketed exhibition into the world of important photography they collected over the decades. It WOWS!

We’d not prepared for this and upon arriving, found that the only tickets available that day were for late in the afternoon; unfortunately, we had other plans. Chatting up the lovely ticket agent, and trying to sweet-talk her into an exception, she mentioned that if we purchased a membership, we’d have immediate access.

For me, no problem, “Lets buy it!” For David, an adamant, “NO! Don’t want to spend that kind of money.” Me, “You were looking forward to seeing this exhibit, and we’re only here today.” I won the argument and with tickets-in-hand, proceeded to see some of the most iconic photographs of the last century. Sir Elton sure has a good eye (even with egg on it)!

Afterwards, a light lunch at the “members-only lounge,” (a nice perk); now rested and reenergized, we gathered up steam to wander about the hundreds of V&A galleries.

Among them: textiles from diverse cultures and time periods; a vast and varied decorative arts collection, including ceramics, glass, metalwork, and furniture; sculptures ranging from the medieval period to the 20^th century, including works by Rodin, Michelangelo, and Donatello.

Then there’s my favorite – Asian Art; with objects from China, Japan, India, and the Islamic world. This collection includes ceramics, textiles, paintings, and more, offering a glimpse into the rich, artistic traditions of these cultures.

Satiated with art, and under rainy skies, we’d sit down to a big bowl of steaming hot Ramen at a restaurant close by our hotel and nourish our cultured souls.

National Gallery

A Caravaggio art exhibit is always a must-see event, if you ask David. He’s a big fan of this Renaissance painter, born Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1571–1610). His last known work is the pièce de résistance at the National Gallery.

In a small, dimly lit salon, we stood in absolute awe in front of “The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula,” (1610). David was mesmerized and waited patiently for a closer look at this powerful painting.

It’s on special loan from its permanent home at the Gallerie d’Italia, Naples, Italy. It’s joined by the National’s own “Salome with the Head of John the Baptist” (about 1609–10).

The Martyrdom depicts the moment of Saint Ursula’s martyrdom. We’re witnessing violence at close quarters in the dramatic depiction of the saint being shot by an arrow. The work showcases Caravaggio’s mature style, with stark contrasts between light and dark and a focus on the psychological intensity of the moment.

And there in the background, his own self portrait looks on, helpless to it all.

A legend even in his own lifetime, Caravaggio left a meager output of masterpieces during his short life, with just 105 paintings attributed to him. He died under mysterious circumstances in 1610 at the age of 38, possibly from fever or as a result of an attack.

Despite his short life, Caravaggio’s legacy has endured, and he remains one of the most studied and admired artists of all time. He’s celebrated for his realistic depiction of human figures, dramatic lighting, and his intense, often violent, subject matter.

While at the National, and with time to kill before tonight’s dinner and theater, we slowly meandered from salon to salon, working our way back out to Keep Calm and Culture On!

By now, after all of our European art museum stops, we’ve seen our fair share of Van Goghs, Renoirs, Monets, Vermeer’s, Cezanne’s, and Rembrandts to last a lifetime.

Theatre

With two London nights available to fill, I told David we both get to pick a theatrical performance to our liking. For me, that was easy, “Six: The Musical.” Being a total Anglophile nut, and enamored by the Tudor Period, I couldn’t wait to experience this Tony Award winning musical: Best Musical Score and Best Costumes.

David, on the other hand, chose a powerhouse acting juggernaut – the Eugene O’Neill drama, “Long Day’s Journey into Night.”

We had had tickets to the Broadway opening of “Six” back in 2020, but then Covid happened … and like the old Swahili Proverb, “Patience attracts happiness; it brings near that which is far.” Well, with patience, we had to go far to bring me “Six” four years later.

It’s a clever, high-energy romp, presented as an 80-minute pop concert (no intermission) in which the six wives of Henry the VIII sing out to reclaim their identities, showcasing their struggles and triumphs. This they accomplish individually in the spotlight as they compete to be considered Henry’s favorite Amor. It was like being in history class, but Broadway style!

The show blends history with contemporary themes of empowerment and feminism; making it both entertaining and thought-provoking. The catchy lyrics, “Divorced, Beheaded, Deceased, Divorce, Beheaded, Survived” from the exuberant opening song, “Ex-Wives,” gets things going right away with its feet-tapping rock score, lasting throughout the entire show.

“Six” features a diverse cast, fantastic, colorful costumes, and a lively score, ending with a rousing finale featuring a mashup of songs. This was 21^st century girl-power!

Next we do a 180 and see “Long Day’s Journey into Night,” a 180-minute production of the classic American play written by O’Neill and published posthumously in 1956. It’s widely regarded as one of the great American dramas of the 20^th century, and a deeply autobiographical work. It won the Pulitzer Prize for drama in 1957.

This version, a star-studded vehicle, has the father, played by Brian Cox, and Patricia Clarkson as the mother; both delivering powerful, moving performances. Supporting characters included one of “The Derrie Girls” and an actor from “Bad Sisters” (both great tv series!).

David loves Patricia Clark’s silky and sultry voice so much so, that he’ll sit in a crowded theatre and pay to hear her read the Yellow Pages!

The play is set over the course of a single day and follows the dysfunctional Tyrone family. The story delves into the family’s complicated dynamics, exploring themes like addiction, illness, guilt, and regret, and plenty of it. Each character struggles with their own demons, personal traumas, and past mistakes.

Heavy, depressing, dark, emotional, but totally engrossing. Once the performance grabbed me and took hold, it never let me go. David sat motionless beside me, absorbing every minutiae detail of the brilliant work being performed on stage. You can’t but help be moved, shaken and mesmerized by it.

Pre-theatre dining for both nights gave us a chance to eat Spanish Tapas and Japanese Ramen in the ever-trendy and lively Covent Garden district of the West End.

Barrafina is a small chain of Spanish tapas bar restaurants. The space was small, but open, bright and airy. Its tapas packed a big, flavorful punch on each of its small, shared plates.

Diners sit around the marble countertop and get to watch a cooking show performed under watchful eyes in its open kitchen. “What’s that?” I’d ask, when seeing an interesting tapas being prepped. “I’d like to order that, por favor!” And so on, until we finished our exciting meal with my all-time favorite Spanish dessert, Crema Catalana – Catalan Cream, a sublime fusion between a Flan and a Crème Brûlée. Smooth and creamy with a crunchy top… Suave.

Kanada-Ya Ramen Bar is a very popular hole-in-the-wall restaurant serving Tonkatsu Ramen. Its intense flavor derides from its Japanese founder, Kanada-San’s recipe, using his 18-hour pork bone broth that he perfected in Japan (where its original location is found).

Lo and behold, having discovered the famous Italian chocolatier and gelato maker, Venchi, in Japan, we fell into one of their London shops to get our licks in.

Tourists have inundated London in record numbers, but springtime brings joy and excitement to savor and relish, day and night.

As seen on the streets and museums …

Hold on … there’s just one more travel blog remaining in this month-long trip through the continent and UK. Promising it to be a colorful and blooming ending!