“In Morocco, before you even get to the matter of the sale, you have to coax the owner to sell.” Tahi Shah, Travels with Myself
Mar 11, 2017
Fez is the second largest city of Morocco, with a population of over 1.1 million.
Fez was the capital city of modern Morocco until 1925. The city has two old medina quarters, the larger of which is Fes el Bali. It is listed as a World Heritage Site and is believed to be one of the world’s largest urban pedestrian zones. The city has been called the “Mecca of the West” and the “Athens of Africa.
Built with winding narrow alleyways, over 9,000 the walk through the Fez Medina is a walk back into time – a complicated labyrinth.
This city remains a picture of medieval Islamic society set in modern times. Patios were built with high walls, which resulted in making the alleyways dark, but cool in the scorching summer months. Narrow winding streets make bicycles, donkeys, and mules the chosen means of transportation. Mosques are in the center of the city with shops and residences built around them. Some residents of the old medina could live their entire life without ever venturing outside.
Fez is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination and many non-Moroccans are now restoring traditional houses (riads and dars) as second homes in the Fez medina and turning them into small boutique hotels.
We stayed very closed to our guide as we traverse alleys right, left, right, left it would have been very simple to get lost in this fast-moving river of humanity. It will be very easy to get lost or disoriented and GPS does not work. Donkeys are still the preferred mode of delivery transportation 80% of all goods in and out of the City are delivered by donkeys – so watch where you step.
Within all this chaos we managed to visit, the most important monuments in the city.
Bou Inania Madrasa, The madrasa is one of the few religious places in Morocco that is accessible for non-Islamic visitors.
Al-Attarine The madrasa takes its name from the Souk al-Attarine, the spice and perfume market.
The University of Al Quaraouiyine, It is the oldest existing, continually operating, and first-degree awarding educational institution in the world.
The Ibn Danan Synagogue, dating from the 17th century was built by, a wealthy merchant from the town of Ait Ishaq.
With all the walking there were few shopping stops along the way including accidentally finding our way into a kindergarten class where the kids were singing, as we peak through the windows the teacher invited us in, could not resist a photo opportunity with plenty of smiling faces their goodbyes where heartfelt but quickly returned with arms full of cookies and candies, the smiles got bigger.
The leather tannery, which Fez is known for a belt and a ottoman The rug maker, was looking for a flying carpet but they were out of them The weaver a scarf and a runner The pottery maker a salt and pepper holder in the shape of mini tangine and small plates for olives.
You bargain in Fez, you never pay asking price nor retail…………our guide asked me if I was Berber, he said he wanted me to deal for him. I was told by a few of the sellers that I wanted to buy a Camel for the price of a chicken, so we met somewhere in the middle and paid the price of a goat but got the Camel.
This is a city of artisans where it’s still revered and honored and passed down through generations, we also visit the woodworkers, metallurgists,s and home weavers.
It’s a city where what you buy is not made in China although our guide took us through an alley they called the Chinoise alley, where they sold clothes, toys, phone cases, and other everyday use items.
Breakfast was served on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Medina, dry apricots, dates, walnuts, fresh strawberries (so that I’d what they taste like), pears, bananas, yogurt, and an assortment of local bread and very strong coffee.
Snacked on dry apricots bought in the Medina, a taste of Faba bean soup ( local specialty need to learn to make it) and a latte while seating in a small little square at the bend of two alleyways, we sat there transfixed as we watch the locals rush bye – our guide manages to stay out of the tourist path.
Dinner at Nur ( Light in Arabic) only a few steps away from our Riad, no need to send a search party we found our way to the restaurant and were escorted back to our Riad by the husband of the chef and her partner”…………..the progressive 7-course tasting menu brought a new surprise of taste and textures to your palate. No menus, it changes daily as the chef cooks with whatever best ingredients she finds in the market.
At the beginning of the meal, you are asked about food allergies and strong likes and dislikes in the food that truly caters to your taste.
Can I eat here for the rest of my life.
Tomorrow on the road to Marrakech