“It ain’t the heat, it’s the humility” Yogi Berra, baseball player, manager and coach
Day 4 … We’re at the height of laziness, after another great breakfast, laying around the pool all day (what is happening to me?). There was a complimentary taco bar for lunch to break the monotony while waiting for the 3pm Happy Hour (half price drinks!) at which another colorful, fruity concoction was discovered – this one named Costa Maya.
Ginger was on a gustatory mission ~ Chiles en Nogada, one of her favorite Mexican dishes. Traditionally served at room temperature with a cold cream sauce, it consists of a poblano chili filled with picadillo: a mixture of shredded meat, aromatics, fruits and spices … topped with a walnut-based cream sauce called nogada and pomegranate seeds. This gives the dish the distinctive tres colores of the Mexican flag: green = chili, white = nut sauce and red = pomegranate.
This famous meal is a source of pride for the inhabitants of the state of Puebla. We were directed to La Cueva Del Chango (The Cave of the Monkey) in town by our waiter while dining at the resort the night before. The restaurant was outdoors in a charming jungle-like setting off Quinta Avenida; none of our meals disappointed. The spicy cream of poblano soup tickled my taste buds and Ginger was enthralled with hers.
Day 5 … an early morning start aboard a private van for our daylong adventure to: **Chichen Itzá\!**
Two hours inland brought us to this amazing pre-Columbian city built by the Maya people. Chichen Itzá was one of the largest Maya cities and it was believed to have been a religious and science center. The site was abandoned long before the Spanish arrival in the 1500s. And we were thrilled to be early arrivals here before the hordes, being one of the most visited archaeological sites in México. And we being Tercera Edad, seniors en México, our entrance fee to Chichen Itzá was nada, gratis … FREE!
We were guided, instructed and enjoying the incredible ruins with our knowledgeable guide, Ventura. The city may have had the most diverse population in the Maya world; a factor that could have contributed to the variety of architectural styles of the city. He pointed out many fascinating details with his trusting green laser pen. Otherwise, we would have surely missed the “family jewels” etched on the walls.
And fortunately for Ginger, she was smart in buying a bright blue parasol from a vendor set up along the entrance way … because eventually, after two hours marching throughout the sprawling complex, the grueling heat and humidity took hold and it was time to cool down with some …
Cenote Time! We drove to a nearby cenote, a natural pit or sinkhole, for a refreshing swim. A cenote results from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater underneath. They’re especially prevalent throughout the Yucatán Peninsula. They were sometimes used by the ancient Maya for sacrificial offerings. Ours was at Ik Kil (does not translate to I Kill) and opens to the sky with the water level way down at 85 feet below ground. There’s a carved, curved stairway 90 steps down (we counted) to a swimming platform. The cenote is about 200‘ in diameter and about 150’ deep!
Vines descend from around the opening all the way down to the water along with some small waterfalls. Birds flew. Fish swam. It was like a miniscule “Gilligan’s Island” retreat … we giddily climbed down the ladder and dived into its cool, clear water … arriving before the masses made swimming a dream. But, heck, where’s the bar?!
Lunchtime … in colonial Valladolid, the second established city in México by Spain. We dined at Meson del Marquez, a restaurant/hotel housed in an 18th century family mansion on the plaza (and still owned by the same family). We sat around a fountain in the plant-filled inner courtyard.
Another culinary umami experience followed … Larry’s meal consisted of a Yucatan specialty ~ Cochinita Pibil, served in a well-worn tin box and to quote Larry, “… an adult Mexican version of a Happy Meal” and he was extremely happy with it
I ordered Papadzules, another traditional dish resembling enchiladas. In its simplest form, it consists of corn tortillas dipped in a pepita (pumpkin) sauce and stuffed with hard-boiled eggs, garnished with a cooked tomato-pepper sauce. Perfection in its simplicity
Soon, the midday skies opened up with a torrential downpour. Hence, we skipped a walking tour of the historic plaza and instead drove around for a quick look at its colonial buildings: the 16th century Convent of San Bernardino of Siena, and baroque-style San Gervasio Cathedral.
Day 6 Finale … upon Ginger’s recommendation, we’d scheduled dual massages under a palapa right on the beach … with only the relaxing sounds of waves crashing against the shore for musical accompaniment. Our ladies were terrific and for 40 bucks each vs. $139 each inside the hotel’s spa … it was karmalicious!
Muchas gracias, Ginger and Larry, for your generosity, friendship and laughter this week. We had a sensational time with you … “Nunca!” (a private joke).
On the Menu….. these are some of the dishes we enjoyed this week: shrimp in mole sauce; tuna steak swimming in a Pasilla chile sauce; chicken breast stuffed with rajas; Chile relleno; grilled fish fillet perfectly seasoned; gelato (chocolate dark cherries); Teppanyaki Grill ~ knife skills & fire show; a tortilla Española (potatoes, onions, chorizo) served in a sandwich; which we took along to Chichen Itzá; Sopa de lima; Sopa de coco and crema de elote ~ Oh My Goodness!
I jumped on the vegetarian wagon 11 years ago on a trip to India – I’m barely hanging on the wagon after this week in Playa del Carmen.
