“It is not living that matters, but living rightly.” Sócrates
Another full sailing day at sea since a Santorini and Kotor stop were sadly eliminated for technical difficulties. You see, what actually bummed me most about the cancelled stops was it made our voyage one less country visited on my decades long quest to join the Century Club (some may recall my hanging pinned world map). 100 nations entitles you to automatic membership. My number now stands at 73.
Our day at sea we accomplished nothing ~ talk about a pair of bums. But isn’t cruising all about doing as much or as little as you desire? David read out on the balcony all day an absorbing novel he picked up in the ship’s library. I took many naps; both activities at odds to both our personalities and proving Socrates right in living matters.
It was a beautiful, sunny day when we arrived in Athens, the Greek capital of 4.5 million inhabitants. It’s one of the world’s oldest cities with a recorded history that spans over 3,400 years. Athens is referred to as the cradle of Western civilization and the birthplace of democracy. The port city of Piraeus, where our ship docked, is the largest passenger port in Europe, and the second largest in the world. Dozens of vessels, ferries, cargo ships, etc. were tightly docked all around us.
Our city tour took us by the Hellenic Parliament and the so-called “architectural trilogy of Athens,” consisting of these imposing edifices: the National Library of Greece, the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens and the Academy of Athens, and included other landmark sites, such as the Wall of Hadrian.
The Acropolis (Parthenon) was our first stop. It brings back memories of being a kid in Habana, dreamingly looking at the pictures and reading about its history on the pages of the family’s set of the Encyclopedia Britannica. It must have been a 1950’s edition and can recall then telling my mom that when I grow up, I’m going to go there and see it for myself … at long last, finally here some 50 years later, a dream realized. Mami, I have you to THANK for making my dreams a reality.
The Parthenon, or the Athenian Acropolis, an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It sits on its high perch in the city, and by law, no other building is permitted to be taller. Dedicated to the goddess Athena, (associated with wisdom, handicraft and warfare) and considered the patron of Athens. Construction began in 447 BC and completed in 438 BC, an amazing feat in such a short time
It’s regarded as an enduring symbol of ancient Greece and one of the world’s greatest cultural monuments. Over the centuries the Parthenon has served several purposes … Treasury, Christian Church and Mosque. Since 1975 numerous large-scale restoration projects have been undertaken; the latest is expected to finish in 2020 and the place still looks like a pile of ruins!
Our guide, Helene, marched us through a mass of humanity while at the same time blasting our minds with innumerable historical facts and dates. The day would prove to be a data information overload, but she was so impassioned, knowledgeable and committed to her craft that you were spellbound by the sound of her voice; a living, breathing encyclopedia!
During our free time at the Acropolis, as David and I were in awe wandering around the site, the theme from the film “Chariots of Fire” kept running through my mind. After all, Athens was the host city of the first modern-day Olympic Games in 1896 and 108 years later it welcomed home the 2004 Summer Olympics.
Another thought roaming through my mind was how this all was built without computer-aided design. There was no earth moving machines, construction cranes to lift the heavy columns nor trucks to transport them from their quarry. It was all accomplished by the willing spirit and sheer determination of man’s dreams or else help from little green men wearing antennas!
Thankfully, right afterwards we headed for a quick stop for a well deserved cup of strong Greek coffee, and next door to the sensational National Archeological Museum. Also nearby was the Athens Polytechnic and there, within earshot, was a scurry of activity, with students gathering to honor the anniversary of the student uprising that began on 14 November 1973.
It was a massive demonstration against the dictatorship and Greek military junta that escalated to an open anti-junta revolt ending in bloodshed and tragedy in the early morning of 17 November Our guide sadly mentioned that her sister, then just 12 years old, was attending the German school nearby and was frighteningly caught up in the melee, still haunting her to this day, 46 years later.
Refreshed, Helene picked up the pace again by guiding us for two plus hours through most of the highlights amongst the immense museum, considered one of the world’s greatest. It house the richest, most important relics of Greek antiquity from a wide variety of archaeological locations throughout Greece. Once more, she related vital, descriptive information that kept us intrigued and engaged. If you had to pick just one museum to visit after the Acropolis, this would be it.
The museum has an imposing neo-classical design which was very popular in Europe at the time of its building. During World War II the museum was closed and the antiquities were sealed in special protective boxes and buried in order to avoid their destruction and looting. Exhibits were again displayed after the war’s end in 1945.
I‘ve always enjoyed viewing Greek antiquities in museums around the world, but to see this vast collection on its home turf was overwhelming. Though only seeing just a small fraction of it (it would have taken many more hours to walk through it’s entirety of rooms and exhibits), I’m most satisfied and grateful for this living experience.
btw … Helene mentioned that every time a piece of Greek antiquities comes up for auction many of the wealthy families in Greece will purchase them and donate it to the museum.
On the Menu … Our Athen’s lunch was at a restaurant in the popular Plaka area: starting off with the perfect, classic Greek salad overflowing with the freshest feta, tomatoes, red onions, black olives and cucumbers; drizzled with the lightest, sweetest of olive oils. For the meat eaters ~ a beef stew with a lovely, seasoned red sauce, accompanied by the best ever crispy, fried round slices of potatoes.
I declined this entree, fed to all, but Steven came to my rescue as he called over the waiter and explained … five minutes later a delicious grilled eggplant doused in a Mediterranean sauce was presented before me and I devoured it. No dinner tonight was necessary after that tasty, local treat of a meal!
