“It isn’t the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it’s the pebble in your shoe.” – Muhammad Ali, American professional boxer

Pokhara, Nepal

The easiest way to travel around Nepal is via air; hence, we’ve got another short flight today to Pokhara, a beautiful city on the lakeshore of Lake Phewa in central Nepal. It’s known for its stunning, natural scenery, adventure activities, and vibrant tourism culture. Often called the “Gateway to the Annapurna Circuit,” it’s a popular starting point for trekkers heading into the Annapurna Mountain range. And, in fact, you can see three out of the ten highest mountains in the world from Pokhara: Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Manasalu.

Pokhara International Airport is Nepal’s third and newest international airport; it still smells fresh since commencing operations on January 1, 2023. It was built to handle over one million passengers a year, but currently it falls far below that number since the Indian Government has restricted Indian Airlines to fly into it. That being said, there’s no financial incentive for other international airlines to do so either.
Simply, the reason is because the airport was financed through a 216 million dollar loan from China. China and India don’t care much for one another, and Nepal walks a high-tension wire between the two countries politically. Sadly, the airport is mired in poor quality and shoddy construction issues and excessive cost overruns. Nepal has requested China to convert this loan into a grant to remove its financial burden. Ahh, politics.

Pokhara lies on the shore of Lake Phewa, a freshwater lake, the second-largest lake in Nepal, covering slightly over 2 square miles. Its eastern shore has developed into a tourist hub; crowded with hotels, restaurants, bars, and shops catering to foreigners. Every other shop on the main street is either selling Pashmina scarfs, overpriced copper items or mountaineering equipment. Of course there’s bountiful and cheaply-made Chinese trinkets and Indian clothing. I managed to buy some Himalayan pink salts.

Gurkha Memorial Museum

No sooner have we landed than off we go to the Gurkha Memorial Museum. The Gurkhas are elite soldiers from Nepal; renowned for their bravery, loyalty, and military skills. They’ve got a rich history spanning over two centuries and are closely linked to the British military and other armies worldwide.

The Gurkhas began to gain recognition in the late 18th-century during conflicts with the British East India Company. In the Anglo-Nepalese War (1814-1816), the British fought against the Gurkhas and recognized their bravery and combat skills, leading to a mutual respect between the two forces.

The museum houses three floors of exhibitions including regimental memorabilia: weapons, medals, and uniforms; all arranged in some sort of chronological order. I quickly walked by all the display cases since the rooms were rather musty and hot.

The Gurkhas’ history includes service in various military campaigns: the Crimean War, and both World Wars. Gurkhas are famed for their valor, resilience, and commitment, exemplified by their motto, “Better to die than be a coward.”

Bindhyabasini Temple

Bindhyabasini Temple is one of the city’s oldest and most revered temples, with a history spanning over 250 years. Perched atop a small hill, the temple offers spectacular, panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan ranges. The temple is accessible via stone staircases from multiple directions. A‘climbing we’ll go – in training for greater heights to come.

The temple is dedicated to Goddess Bindhyabasini, an incarnation of Kali, also known as Bhagwati. She’s revered as the guardian deity of Pokhara. The main shrine houses a Shaligram, a sacred stone symbolizing the goddess. The temple complex also includes shrines dedicated to other deities such as Saraswati, Shiva, Hanuman, and Ganesha.

All-in-all, it’s a central hub for religious activities, especially during festivals like Dashain (currently), when devotees flock to the temple to offer prayers and animal sacrifices to the goddess. Luckily, on this day, we were saved from witnessing any such sacrifices. Thanks be to The Buddha!

Old Bazaar

The Old Bazaar of Pokhara, got me excited thinking – it’s about time that we see some local art and handicrafts. However, the name was misleading, since it’s not a bazaar … in the past it was a bustling trading center.

But now it’s known for its preserved Newari-style buildings, characterized by red-brick facades, wooden windows, and intricately carved doors. These structures are a stark contrast to the modern shops and buildings found in other parts of Pokhara.

There might be a few alleyways thriving with shops and sidewalk vendors, but our guide failed to show it to us. Maybe he didn’t want to lose nine people like he had lost track of me at the beginning.

After checking into our hotel, it gave me the chance to explore the commercial area, and having spotted a few interesting restaurants from the bus, it allowed me to skip-out on the boring, same-old buffet dinners. You may have noticed that the previous blog lacks any food pictures.

Julia and Cathy decided to join me, so the adventurous three set-off and found a charming Italian restaurant, “Caffee Concerto,” with a friendly staff. It was open-aired with a view of the lively street scene.

We proceeded to polish off a fine bottle of red, shared a wonderful Greek salad, some delicious pizza with a light, crispy crust, and to top it off, they had my favorite dessert: Affogato! (chocolate ice cream with a shot of espresso poured on top). It was a great way to end a busy, touring day.

World Peace Pagoda

An early morning outing provided a sensational sunrise viewing over the Annapurna Mountains from atop of the World Peace Pagoda, also known as The Shanti Stupa.

Built in 1973 by the Japanese Buddhist organization, and established to promote peace and harmony among people, it serves as a symbol of hope and tranquility, reflecting the teachings of The Buddha.
It’s a prominent monument offering stunning views of the surrounding landscapes, including Phewa Lake and the Himalayas. It took a 30-minute hike to the top with over 300 steps, and horror of horrors, all done without a drop of morning coffee! How Tragic!

After reaching our last step, we had a straightaway view of this beautiful building in the early morning light. It was amazing, serene, and peaceful. Our small group were the only ones there besides some caretakers. We walked around the stupa, admiring its intricate carvings and statues representing the life of The Buddha.

Mr. Sun was not cooperating this morning; perhaps missing his coffee, too. The sky was overcast, and as we departed, the pagoda was surrounded in mist – adding a mysterious tone.

Davis Falls or Patale Chhango

I’ve been blessed to have visited some of the most famous waterfalls in the world, but Davis Falls, also known as Devil’s Falls or Patale Chhango (Underworlds Waterfall) is unique in that the water disappears into a deep underground tunnel after cascading down.

The monsoon season had just ended, so the flow was strong. The falls aren’t just a natural marvel, but also a place wrapped in legend and local folklore.

The name “Davis Falls” is linked to a tragic incident in 1961 when a Swiss couple was swimming in the area. The woman drowned after being pulled into the underground passage that lies beneath the falls. In her memory, the site was renamed David’s Falls, which over time has been changed to Davis Falls.

The tremendous sound of the waterfall and its mist permeates the area, but upon exiting, you walk through a maze-filled variety of all sorts of trinkets aimed at us tourists. It felt like being at Disneyland and the ubiquitous exit through the gift shop. I did manage to purchase the perfect souvenir that caught my attention – a Buddha eye with bells attached, making it a great addition to our Christmas tree.

International Mountain Museum

While in Pokhara you must visit the International Mountain Museum. Here’s a unique institution solely dedicated in showcasing the rich history and culture of mountaineering in the Himalayas. It highlights the achievements of climbers and the significance of the mountains, particularly the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges.

The museum features a variety of historical artifacts and items used by famous climbers and expeditions, showcasing the evolution of mountaineering gear over the decades. There are displays on the cultures of the local communities living in the mountains, showcasing their fascinating customs, traditions, and lifestyles.

There’s historic photographs documenting significant climbs, including those of notable climbers, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who were the first to successfully summit Mount Everest in 1953.
But to me, the most attractive and interesting part of the museum was its architecture, incredibly designed to resemble a mountain, and symbolizing the natural landscapes that are an important part of the mountaineering experience; its style in total harmony with the surrounding environment. What an achievement to see.

I walked away feeling that the museum celebrates the spirit of adventure and the beauty of the mountains, while fostering appreciation for the natural world and local cultures.

Tibetan Hosted Dinner

Tonight, a Tibetan family graciously hosted us at their home for dinner. Tibetan refugees have been residing in Nepal since the late 1950s, following the Chinese annexation of Tibet.

Our host provided us with insights to the plight of the Tibetan people. He informed us that Nepal originally provided asylum to these refugees, allowing the establishment of settlements and the issuance of Refugee Certificates (RCs).

However, due to its go-between geopolitical location, Nepal has to please both China and India, leading to Nepal to cease issuing Refugees Certificates in the mid 90’s.

The Tibetan diaspora in Nepal face several challenges due to their lack of legal status. Without proper documentation, they encounter difficulties accessing education, employment, and healthcare services.
Despite these challenges, Tibetan refugees have established settlements across Nepal. These communities strive to preserve their cultural heritage through the establishment of monasteries, schools, and handicraft centers.

After devouring mucho Momos, a lot of laughs and a sip of the potent Chhaang, a traditional Tibetan alcoholic barley wine, we left with a little more understanding of Tibetan culture and their endless fight for freedom.

Continuing our air crisscrossing of Nepal, we’ve got a morning’s flight back to Kathmandu.

As seen on the street …