“Last night I dreamt I ate a ten-pound marshmallow. When I woke up the pillow was gone.” Tommy Cooper, Welsh comedian, magician

Mazatlán and marshmallows … what a combo. Add: Easter + Mexicans = Vacation Time = The Beach! Semana Santa, Easter Week, is the big holiday time when most Mexicans go on vacation and head to the water. Many Tapatios, the colloquial term for those from Guadalajara, head due west to the glitzy, glamorous beaches of Puerto Vallarta, a 5-hour drive across Jalisco.

Instead, we headed 280 miles north of there, along the coast to another Pacific beach resort, Mazatlán, Sinaloa; a straight shot NW of us; easily reached via pricey toll roads. It was to celebrate our friend, Lee, and her milestone birthday. She was giving herself an all-out extravaganza for friends and family. The aforementioned visions of “marshmallow …pillow…dreams” will appear later, dear sweet reader.

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It’s always an adventure and joy for us exploring the wonders of México from sea to shining sea. And fun to experience what makes a town tick. Mazatlán has a lot to offer … I’d previously written about the beauty of it just over two years ago, March 16, 2020, in a solo visit just days before Covid hit. So, if you’d like to learn more details and background on Mazatlán, please revisit the blog.

Though both of us grew up on islands by the water, we’re not exactly beach babies, per se, but who can turn down an offer to be right on the ocean and get to party, too?!

First things first … upon arrival, we dropped-off our precious cargo – hauling a huge 25-gallon bucket filled with several dozen assorted white flowers; our birthday girl’s favorite. She was beyond ecstatic; her reaction was similar to the Mastercard commercial, “PRICELESS.”

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Flowers, hugs and hellos delivered, we headed next door, checking into our hotel, plopped down right on the beach; with an oceanfront room with balcony. What a wonderful and relaxing way to fall asleep; being lulled by gentle waves. Nonsense, it being a full moon, and high tides, instead we got thunderous, crashing waves. One night it was so noisy and deafening, instead of counting sheep, it was more like a pod of whales landing ashore … I had to get up in the middle of the night and close our balcony door for a more calm and peaceful sleep.

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Our first afternoon’s itinerary included a group of six; with four svelte ladies squeezed into the backseat of our SUV, to Isla de las Piedras beach (Stone Island). It’s not really an island, but a sandy peninsula across the channel from Mazatlán proper. It’s a beautiful, long sandy beach dotted with restaurants, where you can hang out under a palapa, digging your toes into the sand and order up delicious food and exotic drinks. Bands played, beach dances broke out and a festive air prevailed up and down the shoreline.

Roaming vendors sell everything imaginable; we settled for some delicious, sweet mangos a la Mexicana – sprinkled with a dust of chili powder. This season’s crop is stellar – bite into one and they’re pure honey sweet, their juices happily dripping down our faces.

As mentioned, during Easter week, Mexican families head to the beach in droves, enjoying quality time by the seashore. To see their smiles, laughter and children at gleeful play is a thrill to behold. The sheer happiness they exude is priceless to witness and you sense there’s some joy left in the world.

At some point, Lee picked up two kilos (over 4 lbs.) of freshly caught shrimp for dinner. Mazatlán has the second largest fishing fleet in Mexico, with shrimp and tuna as its most processed seafood products. Back at her home, I took charge and made a delicious stir-fry of shrimp and green beans in very garlicky soy sauce; drinks, laughter, and conversation capped the end to a very long, but delightful day.

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An early 6am rise rewarded us with a spectacular full moon hovering over the ocean, giving our hotel room a deserved designation as a “room-with-a-view.” Today would be devoted to exploring the Centro Histórico and Golden Zone of Mazatlán.

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From our hotel, we drove the length of Stone Island (almost 9 miles); along the way, there’s nothing but coconut trees, Mexico’s third largest grove. At its northern tip, it’s a 10-minute channel crossing in a small boat called a Panga. This ferry system conveniently runs 24/7. We pass by the naval station, and ordinarily cruise ships dock here, too.

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Lee’s pulmonia (an open air, gas-powered golf cart) driver, Juan, was waiting for us and would be our tour guide for the next 4-5 hours, driving us all over this seaside city in the pulmonia – oh, what fun this was going to be – buzzing around town like a Disney ride!

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I had two requests for Juan: the first, Los Originales Suaves de Mazatlán, a family run-marshmallow factory and breakfast at Panama Restaurant & Bakery, the local bakery/dining empire and purveyor of great pan dulce.

David experienced heavenly, sweet nirvana when visiting Suaves, famous for their “froth foam,” soft, pillowy marshmallows, malvaviscos cubiertos de coco, enveloped in toasted coconut, gloriously made since 1950 by Mrs. Clara and the Garcia family.

Though it’s Good Friday, we found the tiny, unassuming factory building open for business. Time doesn’t stop in the production of marshmallows! The whole place consisted of just four rooms: the shop, kitchen, cutting and packaging. The first thing you encounter as you step inside was the sweet aroma. Juan asked permission to enter inside the factory and David stood there with his eyes popped wide opened. He was in his element, his happy space.

To me, the place smelled of childhood, sweet innocence. The young staff was busy flipping large sheet trays full of marshmallows … then cutting, and dusting them with roasted coconut flakes, and slicing them to be packaged. We got to taste them right before packing. I’m not a marshmallow lover or afficionado, but if you dislike eating them, then this is the only one to eat.

It was good, soft, and the chewiness was just right, and not overly sweet, then the tiniest of crunch of the toasted coconut flakes gave them a fine, tasty finish as they melted in your mouth. They package a whopping 2,000 bags per day – all for local consumption; they have a short shelf life, since they’re preservative-free.

On our way out, we bought ten bags ($1.15 each) and a souvenir red T-shirt for Sugar Boy. His sweet tooth knows no bounds. I’m surprised he still has all his teeth! Of course, not all ten bags are for him; he’s generously sacrificing some as gifts. All I can say is, that when I woke up the next morning, an empty bag wrapper was already in the waste can. Someone had sweet dreams of “…ten-pound marshmallows.”

Next up in the pulmonia, Juan took us along part of the world famous malecón. The boardwalk is one of the longest seawalls in the world at over 12 miles in length. Dotted along the waterfront are immense, striking sculptures that are set off against the blue of the ocean and sky. We whizzed by them, with David snapping photos, careful not to have his hands chopped off by passing vehicles.

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Time for some real food after our sweet stop. I wanted to dine at Panama, the local restaurant/bakery institution, with many outlets around. It turned out to be a futile endeavor; since reading about an article in the Mexico News Daily; it appears that Mazatlán is a great breakfast town, and that on Good Friday, the locals and visitors alike all decided to go eat out for a hearty breakfast.

The wait time at the 3 locations we stopped at exceeded 2-hours (in Mexico that can be 3). Let me explain. In the US, restaurants are expected to turn diners over several times. That’s why it’s: menu, order, food, bill – get the heck out. One of the things I love about Mexico is that once you sit down at a table in a restaurant, that table is yours for however long as you want – 99.99% of the time you need to ask for the bill. How great and civil is that?!

Panchos, another local institution, became our runner-up choice. It’s a colorful, lively restaurant smack on the beach in the Golden Zone. We devoured our classic Mexican-style breakfast. Fully satiated, a little retail therapy in the area’s shopping zone completed our tour. But before heading back to the Panga, and back across to Stone Island, we did make a quick stop at Panama and peruse their takeout bakery. David picked up a few, perfect sweets for our morning coffee. Marshmallows, desserts … schedule a dentist’s appt. upon returning!

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Juan got us back to the boat dock and it shocked us to see a block long line of people waiting. It was mostly families, fully laden with ice chests, food baskets, umbrellas and folding chairs; all waiting to head out to the sandy beach across the way on the peninsula. It was a 45-minute queue in the hot sun. David kept his precious marshmallow bootie protected as best he could; it would be a sad day if he arrived home with a bagful of white, gooey fluff.

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That afternoon, Kari, our San Pedro, CA friend/former yoga teacher, and our connection to the party girl, was flying in from LA. She and Lee have been BFF’s forever, since their wild school days at South High in Torrance. Welcome hugs and then the four of us headed out to one of the many pools at the hotel/resort/residential complex; spending the rest of the afternoon just chillin’ ~ floating, eating, drinking, and laughing poolside as the sun set over the ocean. It was delightful to see the two “kids” kibbitzing together.

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The Party Day. It begins with a quick visit to a family home bakery (sweets again!) in the nearby, dusty pueblo of Barron (pop. 2,000). Eight of us overwhelmed the tiny space, where the sweet smell of fresh baked pan dulce permeated the air. Lee’s guests had many questions about the different types of breads and sweets, so this is when I stepped in, and translated all their questions to the daughter of the old baker, her Mamacita.  She also cut-up samples for us to taste. Meanwhile, I kept pushing everybody to buy, buy, BUY! It was then suggested I apply for vendedor, (pushy) salesman. All in all, it was a privilege and fascinating peek into a typical, old time Mexican village panadería.

Nighttime began the climatic and celebratory wingding held at Lee’s lovely, palatial, seaside home. It opens onto the ocean air with large, sliding glass doors; creating the maximum indoor/outdoor entertaining space.

Drinks flowed, and the catered Thai menu was worthy of anything NOB. A fabulous house band played cover songs on the outside patio; the noise of conversation and laughter mixed with the live music, along with the background symphony of waves crashing against the shore; giving the night a magical, enchanting tone. What a way to celebrate one’s special birthday!

Mazatlán’s magic was sweet. A visit here tempts, satisfies and offers a splendid seaside retreat. It’s a city full of life, culture and history; beautiful beaches, delicious food and warm, friendly people.