“Our food connects us to the land and to the wisdom of our ancestors.” – Victor Montejo, Mayan anthropologist and writer

CHIAPAS – PART 4 – THE FINALE

Alas, we’ve come to the end of our weeklong Chiapas escapades. For this final segment, food plays a vital and outstanding contribution to the unending wonders of this premier agricultural state that supplies over 30% of México’s output. It’s part and parcel of the lives of Chiapanecos, and its many ethnic groups that have maintained their ancient cultures, traditions and customs, foremost in their food.

Without a doubt, we’ve enjoyed some great eats along the way. One of the culinary highlights was a Mayan cooking class. Whenever traveling, if there’s a cooking class available, we’re in; this being one of the best ways to immerse ourselves into the local culture.

I’ll share a bit of background on Mayan cuisine, but the storytelling for this bit falls to David; for it was unfortunate that I spent the day being chased by the great god, Montezuma, and yes, I was down for the count for the day.

While recovering, David stepped-up to the plates, fully embracing the experience and opportunity of learning traditional techniques and ingredients that have been part of Mayan kitchens for generations. From grinding spices to preparing authentic regional dishes, it was a wonderful glimpse into the culture and flavors of Chiapas.

Mayan Cuisine

The cuisine of the Maya is one of the oldest, living food traditions in the Americas; fully rooted in pre-Hispanic ingredients, extensive agricultural knowledge, and ritual practices that still shape daily life today across the southern Mexican states: Chiapas, Oaxaca, Yucatán, Campeche, Quintana Roo, and on into Guatemala, Belize, and parts of Honduras.

At its heart is the milpa system of ancient Mesoamerica, or the “Three Sisters Method” of intercropping: corn (maize), beans, and squash. Maize is sacred and appears in countless forms. Beans provide protein, while squash, its blossoms, and seeds add flavor and texture. Chiles, tomatoes, tomatillos, cacao, achiote, and wild herbs bring the flavorful dishes to life.

Maestra Claudia Sántiz

The master chef leading the cooking class was Claudia Sántiz (born 1988), an extraordinarily talented, and trailblazing, Indigenous Tzotzil chef from Chiapas. She’s renowned for bringing Mayan and regional cuisine to national and international attention, with her ceaseless devotion and dedication to her cultural heritage.

Claudia comes from simple stock, born in San Juan Chamula (if you recall the “magical, mysterious, and pew-less church” where we encountered the most haunting and unique, spiritual practices?).

She has revealed her struggles and passions in her book, “Kokono: De una Mujer Rebelde,” written in both Spanish and Tzotzil. The book’s title translates to “Epazote: From a Rebel Woman.”

“Kokono” translates to “epazote” in a Tzotzil dialect. It’s an important, ancient Mexican aromatic herb, and has great medicinal properties, too.

Claudia became the first Tzotzil woman to graduate in gastronomy from the Universidad de Ciencias y Artes de Chiapas. Her words sum up her early experiences that contributed to her future career … “Everyone told me that after finishing school, I would have to get married, but at 14, I refused, and I enrolled in the Universidad de Ciencias y Artes de Chiapas.”

“It was a rebellious choice, I admit, and not easy for my family, but it was very important for me.”

Her lengthy resume includes being an active promoter of the European Slow Food movement; that which combines the pleasure of food and commitment to the community and environment.

She would work with internationally renowned Mexican chefs, Enrique Olvera at Pujol, and Eduardo García at Máximo Bistrot, both Michelin-starred restaurants in Mexico City.

Her work has earned recognition from The World’s 50 Best “50 Next” list, and Forbes Mexico’s 100 Most Powerful Women. Claudia appeared on the Netflix show, “Iron Chef: Mexico,” in 2021 … etc., etc.

Sadly, it was a missed opportunity for me to meet this extraordinary woman, and learn a thing or two from her. Remember the Mary Tyler Moore theme song lyric, “Who can turn the world on with her smile?” As the photos show, her smile could light up a room and then some.

Thankfully, David, Jayne and Joyce stepped-in to take my place, soaking up every moment like sponges as they worked alongside her and her assistant; helping create their lunch.

*** David writing now … The private class was held at her self-named restaurant, now celebrating 10 years in San Cristóbal de Las Casas. We gathered inside and marveled at its festive surroundings of colorful décor with traditional Chamula textiles, toys and murals depicting Mayan and Aztec codexes. It was time to immerse ourselves into a new, and fascinating cooking world.

Initially, I felt intimidated with working alongside a Master Chef, but no sooner than we began preparations, Claudia immediately put us at ease with her down-to-earthiness. There wasn’t time to waste with anxiety or discomfort, for once the aprons were tied-on, it was straight to work and getting the prep done for our meal.

All of our ingredients for today’s lunch was spread across the table and Claudia got us started right away, chop-chop … instantly becoming busy, worker bees with our assigned dishes.

We worked effortlessly with Claudia’s gentle and kind guidance. Her humble generosity, and graciousness couldn’t have been any more genuine. It was a privilege and an honor to be in the presence of such a remarkable woman.

I was tasked with prepping the ingredients for a fairly easy and uncomplicated, Indigenous Potato Soup; including using a mortar and pestle to grind the toasted pepitas, an important base ingredient.

There’s barely a language barrier when it comes to cooking; you chop, dice, shred, sliver, boil and garnish, as necessary. Thankfully, my rudimentary knife skills weren’t all that bad.

Jayne got to make cute, little blue corn masa tamales stuffed with peas; while Mr. Joyce created the most delicious fried empanadas floating in a tomato sauce.

Our most challenging task was to take a small ball of corn masa and smash it into a tortilla, and then gingerly place it atop the hot comal to cook. It was a delicate chore that took a bit of practice.

In what seemed like no time, we were finished. All in all, it was an entirely fun and joyful time working harmoniously in the kitchen. The wood-burning stove and oven brought us back to a simpler time and gave us a taste of authentic, Indigenous cooking. I took many photos of each step of the way in preparing the unfussy, tasty soup that I was tasked in, as I plan to recreate it at home.

Sumidero Canyon

The pièce de résistance for our last, great Chiapas adventure was the spectacular Sumidero Canyon, a protected national park, and one of the most iconic, and stunning landscapes in the state.

It makes for a terrific and fun morning’s outing on the Grijalva River, a major 300-mile long river in southeastern México and Guatemala. It flows into the Gulf of México.

Life jackets fastened, we boarded a speedboat for a tour upriver. Our journey was 20 miles each way, ending at the Chicoasén Dam; the roundtrip lasting about two hours.

Lucky us, for as the boat pulled away, the canyon winds were calm today; if not, no boats would be set out. The river was wide and calm, but soon the waters narrowed and the cliffs began to rise. Within minutes they became enormous, towering stone walls nearly 1,000 meters above the river – that’s 3,200’ high; taller than the Empire State Building, including its aerial antenna.

We strained our necks this-a-way and that-a-way to take in the 360-degree grand vistas surrounding us. The deeper in we traveled, the quieter everything became. Awe-inspiring can’t even begin to suggest the beauty of it all.

Dense jungle clung to the canyon walls. Our astute guide pointed out crocodiles lying motionless along the muddy banks, while giant iguanas basked in the sun high up in the trees. Though we never saw them, monkeys abound.

Sunlight slipped between the cliffs and reflected off the green water, creating shifting patterns of light and shadow. It felt like we had entered an ancient world, and its hidden corridor carved by nature over millions of years. This was no Disney E-Ticket ride, but the real thing, and absolutely thrilling.

Sumidero Canyon is more than a geological wonder. Its name, “Sumidero,” meaning “a place where things sink or disappear,” deriving from both geography and legend … from the surrounding mountains, the Grijalva River appears to disappear into a deep crack in the earth as it enters the canyon.

According to local legend, during the 16^th-century Spanish conquest, many Indigenous Chiapanec people chose to leap from the canyon cliffs rather than surrender to Spanish forces. One after another, they disappeared into the river far below, giving the canyon its haunting name.

Even today, guides say that on quiet mornings, when fog drifts across the river, strange echoes can sometimes be heard between the cliffs, and said to be the voices of those who once defended this land.

Whether wind, water, or imagination, the towering cliffs and deep silence make the legend easy to believe and lends a reverence to the place. This entire trip has been one revelation after another.

Pom-poms

What can I say?! Say pom-poms, and a smile crosses your face. Pom-pom tassels are ubiquitous, textile adornments, and are found throughout Chiapas and Oaxaca, whether hanging or stitched-down. They represent life force, abundance, and protection.

Importantly, their bright colors are believed to ward-off negative energy and affirm joy and resilience; therefore, perfect for attaching to one’s purse or tote bags; besides lending endless cheer.

Tzotzil/Chiapas Tassels are handmade by local artisans, and are known for their bright, neon, or multi-colored yarn; used for festive home decor, party accessories, and how about the perfect cat toy?! They’re unique and inexpensive fun, making perfect souvenirs.

They’re created in the form of hearts, alphabet letters, foodstuff, animals, etc., and are far more than mere decorations. They form a visual language rooted in Indigenous traditions and shaped over time by Catholic symbolism (the cross is a fairly common theme).

Textile hearts, too, draw from pre-Hispanic beliefs, as the beating heart is the seat of the soul … as recorded in ancient times when human sacrifices were made especially for the heart’s sacred value. After the conquest, the symbolism blended with the Catholic Sacred Heart, now a sign of love, devotion, and sacrifice (but not in the human way).

Shhh …don’t tell anyone, but we secretly enjoy collecting this form of Mexican textile art, and either own or gifted a variety: donuts, avocado, dolphin, peacocks, and crosses, to name a few.

Affectionately, we’ve dubbed them a silly name, “dingleberries,” because they seem to hang or dangle from everything: doorways, bags, fabrics and walls; delightfully bursting with color and joy.

On our shopping expeditions, we discovered Chiapas is the Land of the Dingleberry, with shops galore overflowing with vast selections. The challenge wasn’t finding one, but editing and choosing amongst an infinity of colors, patterns, and shapes – each piece calling out with its own personality and charm.

Being so lightweight and taking up no space, our suitcases were filled with them as keepsakes and gifts.

El Secreto Restaurante

A special, final night’s dining experience was had at “El Secreto,” a charming, hidden, culinary gem. True to its name, the restaurant feels like a secret waiting to be uncovered. Tripadvisor rates it #6 in the city. It proved outstanding in all ways. Plus, it gives me a chance to leave y’all salivating (food porn pix!).

Located inside the elegant, Hotel Casa del Alma Boutique & Spa, from the moment we walked through its doors we felt its intimate and inviting atmosphere envelop us, with great art lining its walls (and those great, big pom-poms!), and immediately felt warmly welcomed or ¡muy bienvenidos!

Right from the get-go, an incredible meal service began with delightful bites: a tiny amuse-bouche was presented – a corn tortilla topped with a green hoja santa pesto; so herbaceous, and something I absolutely need to recreate at home, since we have a hoja santa plant growing prolifically in our backyard. This was followed by a perfect crackling-skin pork nugget; basically, elevated chicharrónes.

El Secreto then began its slow seduction with a dip into the underworld, in the form of a wicked cocktail that activated my taste buds. From our first blog in Chiapas, you may recall we celebrated my birthday at Tierra y Cielo Restaurante. I thought that meal was heavenly, but who knew there could be two culinary heavens in San Cristóbal de las Casas?!

The parade of culinary delights began …Ocosingo Cream Soup, made with the famous, local cream cheese, sweet corn kernels, and a delicate Parmesan cracker; a totally soothing, satisfying, and perfect fusion of Mayan and contemporary flavors. My palate was whetted and demanding MORE!

There followed dishes that truly knocked it out of the park: Crispy Duck Confit Taquitos, a top menu favorite, bursting with flavor; a vibrant, fresh salad with ingredients that seemed to scream, “I just came in from the field!,” and Orange Chicken Breast – an unexpected, but brilliant fusion of Asian and Mexican flavors.

I’ve never considered myself much of a risotto person, but I was completely convinced otherwise by every cheesy morsel of the Squid Risotto, bathed in a rich provolone and parmesan sauce. ¡Qué rico!      

All of this was easily washed-down with a delicious bottle of one of our favorite Mexican vinos, Casa Madero 3V.

Since we were celebrating Jayne’s January birthday, we lingered until the restaurant had emptied. Then “Las Mañanitas”, the Mexican Happy Birthday song, began to play, and a lovely chocolatey, utterly decadent tart was presented with “Felicidades” written in red jam across the plate. All so heavenly!

From first bite to last, the dishes combined traditional ingredients with modern presentation, turning each plate into a small piece of edible art on a plate. Sitting there, enjoying and savoring the meal and peaceful atmosphere, I felt as if I had discovered a special place that truly captures the spirit of Chiapas in every way.

Tomorrow we depart for home. Jayne will stay two more days in the city, then she’s off on a grueling 12-hour bus ride to Lake Atitlan, high in the mountains of Guatemala, surrounded by volcanoes and small, traditional pueblos. She’ll continue having a unique Central American Mayan experience, with her own exciting tales to tell.

This journey through southern México has been one of the most meaningful adventures of my life. From the moment of arrival, it felt as though the land itself welcomed us with open arms, showcasing its natural, breathtaking beauty: blue waterfalls, deep canyons, mountain-high Mayan ruins, pristine landscapes, Zapatistas, and colorful textiles, etc.

Every sense is touched upon – the food nourishes you, the architecture tells stories of the past, vibrant textiles reveal the artistry and history of generations.

Its proud people, a strong, and powerful Indigenous society, carries forth centuries of stories, and a spiritual belief system unlike any other.

There’s their warm presence, traditions, smiles, and the deep pride they carry forth in their heritage, creating something truly powerful to experience. And, it must be said they exude a tremendous, exuberant joy of living.

At times, with the Chiapas slow pace of things, we were reminded to slow down, (you’re going too fast) savor and enjoy all around you. As the saying goes, “Be Here NOW!”

At the airport, the Chiapas logo reads: “Seguro te va a gustar,” which translates to “You’re going to like it.”

I didn’t just like it. I truly loved every moment we spent in this enchanting, mythical, mystical, traditional, historical, and legendary part of México.

Lastly, a big shout-out to our terrific, expert travel coordinator, Ivana, of Buenos Días México, who conjured up our incredible, flawless itinerary, from start to finish. She’s since booked us a return visit to Oaxaca in July to experience their yearly, major dance, music and food festival, the Guelaguetza!

As seen on the streets …