“Remember me, Though I have to say goodbye, Remember me, Don’t let it make you cry, For ever if I’m far away, I hold you in my heart” Lyrics from the film “Coco”

Lake Chapala has exploded with marigold flowers everywhere as families are preparing to celebrate Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) over the long weekend. The multi-day holiday involves family and friends gathering to pray for and remember the dearly departed souls. In Mexican culture, death is viewed as a natural part of the human cycle. It’s not a day for sadness, but cause for celebration of loved ones whose spirit is awakened and returns for the day.

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And celebrate they do with parades, processions, fireworks, dance, food and song. This year we participated in three different events in three Lakeside towns.

Dinner Halloween night in Ajijic at Teocintle Maíz. From here we witnessed the procession of the Virgin del Rosario,  as it passed by the restaurant. Along with 3 religious inspired floats (makeshift pickup trucks), there was a parade of school children singing religious hymns. Word around town is that the parish priest is very anti-Halloween, a pagan’s holiday, and wanting to save the children from the sin of gluttony (too much candy). We wondered about that later on as children wandered the streets, dressed in costume . . . 

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After enjoying another fantastic meal on their new winter menu, we headed over to the town’s plaza. It was festooned with flower and food vendors with great anticipation building up for the weekend’s festivities. There were firework towers set up in front of the church to begin the holiday with some BANG. They were scheduled to go off at 10pm, in three hours time, well pass my bedtime.

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On the Day of the Innocents (Nov. 1st), we were invited to join our friend, Linda, for dinner at the popular Viva Mexico in San Juan Cosalá, our home town. Arriving a bit early, scanning the restaurant and not seeing her, the waiter proceeded to take us to a table. But to our surprise, sitting right in front of us, Linda and two of her friends were fully decked-out as Catrinas. I would never have recognized her if she hadn’t said “BOO!”

Dinner over, it was time for festivities. Nearby, the town’s gazebo was fully covered with marigold orange – natural and paper flowers. There we joined a large procession of townsfolk in celebrating the arrival of the Catrina of the Lake. Hence, the reason for Linda’s appearance as she was invited to partake in the celebrations. 

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The beautiful Catrina was escorted into town by dancers beating drums and warriors dressed from an ancient time; all lit by candles and homemade torches. We took part, but my torch was a dud – it kept going out. Once reaching the plaza the procession was continuing on to el Campo Santo (cemetery) … we bowed out, having participated in enough celebrations for one evening.

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Día de Los Muertos💀 is the real deal in México. Lakeside fairly bursts with activities. We had an invitation to our friends, John and Kathleen, for a late lunch, joined by Christine and Simon, British expats.

The eclectic menu: Guacamole and fried chicken to start; followed with Chiles en Nogada,  brisket and David’s contribution of jicama/mango salad. Kathleen honored us by whipping up the best dessert – a fabulous Mexican Chocolate, Chipotle Pecan Pie, served with raspberry coulis, fresh raspberries and/or whipped cream! Devoured it in almost a single bite. John proclaimed it as her best effort to date on the rich, decadent dessert. 

Then it was off to Chapala to walk off the lovely meal and to see the ofrendas,  private altars, dedicated to the departed. They’re set up along the main street leading to the malecón. They’re colorful, elaborate and painstakingly constructed. This year’s theme honored educators, teachers and writers from Jalisco State. Maria Montessori was a noted non-Mexican as she was instrumental in local education as far back as 1915.

Every year local high school students select an individual to honor and they compete to outdo one another in creating their altars. They even go so far as to become a living embodiment of their honorees; elaborately dressed as La Calavera Catrinas, elegant skulls. The intent is to encourage visits by the souls, so they’ll hear the prayers and comments of the living directed to them. Gratefully, each alter has a placard written in English for gringos explaining the illustrious lives.

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Altars can be up to seven levels high, but must contain the followings elements: photographs, candles, food, copal incenses (to ward off evil spirits), water, sugar skulls, marigolds, shredded paper – traditionally yellow and purple representing purity and mourning at the same time, a salt plate, pan de muertos,  as a gift to satisfy the soul for the work done in life (I love it with my morning coffee), the dog – representing generosity and companion, an arch to represent the entrance to the world of the dead and a cross to represent the four cardinal points. 

We feel very lucky and blessed living in a place where ancient traditions and customs are still revered and where family is still the first priority. It was a great opportunity for us to participate in our community and share in the spirit of humanity.

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Our raining season is coming to its end; it hasn’t been a very wet season overall, but suddenly this week the skies let loose with a torrential thunderstorm and amazing light show. It was a spectacular show of nature in announcing the forthcoming Día de Los Muertos holiday.

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On the Menu … Grilled Scallops topped on a homemade sweet potato hash; Chiles en Nogada, Coconut Shrimp (my favorite dish at Teocintle);  Grouper fish in a light, pistachio mole.

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