“The Dingle Peninsula, with its staggeringly high cliffs, mountain passes and gorgeous beaches, is scenic royalty.”  … from “Exquisite Coasts”

The Dingle Peninsula, Southwest Ireland

It’s a sunny day in Ireland and we’re driving along the stunning Slea Head Drive,(30 miles) a spectacular, circular route around the southwest’s Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry. It’s a small part of the great Wild Atlantic Way; beginning and ending in the small port town of Dingle. The Wild Atlantic Way route is 1,600 miles long, covering Ireland’s west coast through nine counties. It stretches from Kinsale in County Cork (south) all the way up to Malin Head in County Donegal (north), winding along the entire rugged Atlantic coastline, making it one of the longest defined coastal routes in the world.

Our fearless driver, Emmett, knew well to drive it clockwise to avoid meeting large, tour buses head-on. Parts of Slea Head travel along steep cliffs and is very narrow, and single lane only.

The rugged mountains of the peninsula rose sharply to our right, their slopes dotted with sheep and ancient stone walls. The road twisted and turned; every turn revealing postcard-perfect views of emerald green valleys, mountainous islands, glimpses of hidden beaches below, secluded coves, and quaint villages.

We hugged deep cliffs that plunged into the Atlantic Ocean; its waves sparkling in the sunlight stretching west – next stop, America.

Inch Beach

Inch Beach, a long, golden stretch of sand that seemed to go on forever, was our first stop of the day. Perfect for a glorious sunny, bright day which brought out the locals in force. Standing on the wide expanse of sandy beach, it was easy to see why this beach is so beloved, for it feels at once wild and welcoming, a perfect slice of Ireland’s rugged beauty.

The ocean’s waves rolled-in steadily, white foam cresting and breaking on the shore, while the wind carried the briny scent of the sea and the occasional distant cry of a gull. Inch Beach was a quiet reminder that sometimes the simplest stops of sand, sea, and sky, can be the most memorable.

Personally, I prefer beaches with white sand, and clear, warm, blue waters and palms trees swaying to the rhythm of the breeze – thinking back to Cuba’s great beaches as a wee, young lad.

We soon left behind the golden sands to continue along the peninsula, with every bend promising yet another unforgettable scene.

Gallarus Oratory

At first glance, the Gallarus Oratory appears like an upturned boat resting on the grass; its dark stones fitted so tightly together, that not a sliver of light passes through it.

The Gallarus Oratory is one of Ireland’s most iconic, early Christian sites, but its exact purpose is still debated. It’s the only intact building of its type, having attracted considerable attention by experts for hundreds of years. The Oratory is thought to date back to the 7^th or 8^th-century, built without mortar.

Its stones are carefully angled so that rainwater can slide off the roof; enduring wicked, Irish storms over time. It stands as a testament to the skill and devotion of its builders, whoever they were.

Stepping inside, I felt the stillness of centuries. The tiny interior is simple – a single, small window and a doorway that frames the Atlantic; allowing winds to pass through. There’s no decoration, no grandeur, only the power of simplicity and faith.

Like many ancient sites in Ireland, Gallarus Oratory has gathered its share of folklore. One legend says that anyone who climbs out through its tiny east-facing window will have their sins forgiven …  a reminder of the Oratory’s role as a place of pilgrimage and penance. Locals still speak of travelers who attempted it, wriggling through the narrow stone opening to be “reborn” on the other side; with a hallelujah and amen.

Outside, the fields rolled down toward the sea, dotted with sheep and dry-stone walls. It felt as though time itself had slowed, leaving Gallarus Oratory untouched, a solitary witness to Ireland’s spiritual past.

(Liam, if you are reading this, what is that Chateau ruin in the distance?! OK – you had to be there for the joke. Floyd created a limerick for it. Please read it at the end of the blog.)

Ceann Sraithe

Now for a gorgeous, drop dead vista … Ceann Sraithe with its breathtaking views of the rugged coastline, and the surrounding landscapes, and another Star Wars film location (“The Last Jedi”). It’s just so spectacular.

It’s a windswept headland that provides panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Dingle Peninsula’s dramatic scenery. 

Emmett pulled off to the side of narrow Slea Head Drive, and the moment we stepped out, the wind smacked our faces before we even saw the dramatic cliffs. Steps away brought us to the headland’s edge, where jagged cliffs plunged into the churning Atlantic below.

A natural arch in the rocks framed the horizon, waves foaming as they met the shoreline, and sunlight scattered across the water in glittering shards. (Ireland just naturally makes one want to be poetic.) The air smelled of salt and wild grass, and for a moment, the world felt suspended … with just the sea, the cliffs, and “ …Above us, only sky … And the world will live as one” ~ “Imagine”?!

We lingered until the wind urged us onward. It wasn’t just a viewpoint, it was a magical place to breathe, to feel the edge of Ireland under your feet, and to realize how small one is against the Atlantic’s vastness.

Dingle

After dingling (I just made that up) along the Dingle Peninsula, we arrived in the touristy, but delightful Dingle town (pop. 1,700), a charming harbor-side village full of color, music, and life. The English-language name “Dingle” is an anglicized version of the Gaelic, An Daingean (The Fort).

The town’s streets are lined with brightly-painted shops and cozy pubs. The smell of fresh seafood drifted from the harbor, mingling with the salty tang of the Atlantic, bringing on a ravishing hunger.

We walked by the statue of Fungie, the dolphin, in tribute to the town’s famous mascot. Fungie was a beloved bottlenose dolphin who had been a fixture in Dingle Bay for decades. The bronze figure stands proudly overlooking the waterfront to continue delighting one and all with his playful posture.

The town’s vibrant storefronts are tempting; offering local crafts, Irish woolens, and quirky souvenirs. There’s a bounty, too, of seafood restaurants. I could hear wonderful snippets of old Irish being spoken in the streets, its lilting and musicality lending a colorful, cultural note.

St. Mary’s Church, built 1861-65 as a neo-Gothic church, it stone spire looming large on a hilltop in the heart of Dingle, is a reminder of the town’s enduring faith and community.

Where to eat amidst all the seafood offerings? A quick Google search suggested The Fish Box as our best bet and ideal choice to savor local fish.

Today’s special catch was Hake. The Fish Box’s Flannery’s Fish & Chips were constantly passing us by, enticing David into a quick decision. The monster-sized platter of golden, beer-battered fish was a no-brainer; served with freshly cut, local chunky chips.

I’m a seafood chowder fanatic, and theirs was a hearty, creamy blend, chockful of fresh seafood; with a thick slice of soda bread offered on the side. I was in heaven. But wait – I can’t pass up a curry seafood dish either …

The Red Thai Haddock & Prawn Curry Sauce was excellent. The fish couldn’t have tasted any better if the chef had caught it himself. Hey, wait a minute, maybe he did since they operate their own trawler, Cú Na Mara (“Hound of the Sea”), since 2007; ensuring that the seafood served is as fresh as it gets, folks. It’s often caught just hours before reaching your plate.

95% satiated, we needed to add the cherry on top, and to cap-off an incredible meal, there’s always room for some rich and creamy, Irish ice cream … leading us to queue-up at Murphy’s, Dingle’s best. With a chocolate and strawberry combo cone in hand, I felt like a kid wanting to skip along the sidewalk. All-in-all, it was a delightful, delicious Dingle Day!

We depart the Dingle Peninsula not just with photographs and souvenirs, but with the feeling of having experienced something timeless, and a land that is stubbornly beautiful, quietly powerful, and utterly unforgettable; inviting travelers to slow down, breathe, and simply be.

The Cliffs of Moher

Another spectacular and one of Ireland’s most famous and iconic, natural landmarks, are the Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, along the Wild Atlantic Way. The Cliffs stretch out for approximately 14 km (8.7 miles) along the Atlantic coast. At their highest point, they reach 214 meters (702 ft.) or roughly 71 stories, making that a long elevator ride to the bottom. Composed primarily of sandstone and shale, they were formed around 320 million years ago.

Arriving just as the morning’s mist began to lift, it remained overcast, but you can still see the Aran Islands floating out on the horizon. The climb up to the top viewing platform was too steep and challenging for David, but fortunately, a golf cart whizzed by and after inquiring, we waited for its next departure up.

From this high viewpoint, a spectacular trail leads along the cliff edge to experience the dramatic views of the Atlantic, in all its raw, untamed glory. The winds sliced through you with razor-sharp precision. Ahead, the cliffs soared dramatically, its grey stone plunging sharply into the frothy sea below.

Walking along the narrow paths, each turn revealed a dramatic, new vista. The waves crashed against jagged rocks, seabirds darted and dived between cliff faces, nesting precariously in every available nook.

We paused frequently, taking in the immensity of the cliffs and letting the wind carry the sounds of the ocean and the cries of gulls into our ears.

By now, chilled to the bone, and easier to walk down the hill, we stepped inside the visitor centre to warm up. It’s a modern, eco-friendly facility built into the hillside landscape. Its low-profile, partially underground building minimizes visual impact and blends into its surroundings.

A hot cup of cocoa did its trick, and gave us energy to check out the interactive exhibits on geology, wildlife, and local history … then, with a little time left, some retail therapy at their gift shop.

The Cliffs of Moher have inspired literature, music, and film; appearing in movies like “Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince” and “The Princess Bride.”

Even with the hordes of visitors wandering along the paths, the cliffs felt solitary and commanded attention, demanded reflection, and provided inspiration and awe of Mother Nature’s incredible beauty bestowed upon the Emerald Island.

Lisdoonvarna and Smoked Salmon

Lisdoonvarna is a charming, little spa town nestled in the heart of The Burren region in County Clare. Known for its rich heritage, its claim to fame began in the 1800s with the discovery of its therapeutic, mineral-rich spa wells. The Spa Wells Health Centre & Pump Room is Ireland’s only active, natural spa.

But what the little town of 1,000 souls is most famous for is its hosting of one of Europe’s largest matchmaking festivals, held yearly throughout the month of September.

The Matchmaker Bar is ground zero for the festivities. The brightly painted façade, and aptly named traditional, Irish pub is brightly adorned with street art celebrating L’Amour. Nearby, Liam hammed-it-up with the dancing couple statue that commemorates the festival.

Since its beginnings of attracting single farmers after the harvest, it’s now mushroomed into an extravaganza (or bacchanalia). It’s the Woodstock for over 40,000 lonely hearts from around the world; all seeking romance, and a bit of “craic”‘ or fun.

And to think this has been going on for the last 160 years – it could claim to be the predecessor of the online site, Tinder! Well, shiver me timbers!

Not far from the center of town, we had an early lunch at The Roadside Tavern, a historic pub offering a rich blend of tradition and local flavors. It was established in 1865 and has been in the Curtin family since 1893; standing as one of the oldest establishments in The Burren region.

We tasted their smoked salmon, soda bread, and a small light salad. The family owns a smokehouse or smokery just up the road, which we’ll stop by afterwards.

Accompanying the meal was a beer tasting flight of The Tavern’s inhouse ales: Burren Gold, a light and refreshing lager; Burren Red, a spicy, slightly sweet ale; and Burren Black, a robust stout. Not being much of a beer drinker, I found the Burren Gold best to my liking.

The smokehouse is tucked discreetly into the verdant hillside. Inside, the smell of smoked salmon – rich, salty, and slightly sweet, lingers in the air. A short, guided video was presented, explaining the centuries-old process of taking Atlantic salmon, hand-selected and then cured with traditional methods, and finally smoked slowly over oak and beech woods.

Then came the best part – tasting slice after slice of the incredibly, fleshy meat as it melted on my tongue, smoky and delicate at once. It was a perfect harmony in a plethora of flavors: Honey, Whiskey & Fennel, Plain, Spiced, Honey, Lemon & Dill. Oh, what heavenly treats!

When I overhead Alicia ask if they delivered, my heart skipped a beat, as I quickly imagined re-tasting all these delicate flavors back home, but alas, they do not ship to Mexico … happily saving me a great fortune!

Limericks

The word, Limericks, is thought to come from the Irish city of Limerick. The story is a little playful, just like the verses themselves – a form of comic verse, short and punchy, with five lines and a sing-song rhythm (AABBA rhyme scheme). 

Their exact origins are fuzzy, but it’s widely believed to have developed in 18^th-century Ireland and England, possibly connected to drinking songs and oral traditions.

Our guide, Liam, had our entire group creating limericks between our stops, and as a way of entertainment, he held a limerick contest. It would be Floyd and Monica who rocked the lines, over and over with winning limericks; their Irish roots did them proud!

I tried to dig into my Irish roots, as I’m sure there’s got to be an old relative that got washed ashore after the defeat of the Spanish Armada.

Let me share one of Floyd’s gems …

Ode to Liam

In Dublin, we met our fine host,

Poor man he has a ghost,

A young French lass

A real Pain in the ass,

Me thinks, he misses her the most

So while limericks are now a worldwide form of humorous verse, they carry a strong Irish connection in both name and spirit.

As seen in our journey to Sligo…..