“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” Jacques Yves Cousteau, explorer, conservationist, filmmaker

A golden opportunity came along for a change of scenery for four days – exchanging a lake view for an ocean view in ​Mazatlán​. L.A. yoga friends, Kari and Waldy, gathered at her friend, Lee’s spacious home plopped down on the beach. It sits majestically on a beautifully landscaped golf compound. The course is located just to her right … with an open lot to her left up for sale … for any takers she’ll be a great neighbor (besides being a masterful massage therapist).

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Mazatlán is a native Nahuatl word meaning “place of deer.” The city was founded in 1531 by an army of Spaniards and indigenous settlers. By the mid-19th century, a large group of immigrants arrived from Germany. The Germans influenced the local music, ​banda​, becoming an alteration of Bavarian folk music. Now you know where and how ​Banda Sinaloense​, a musical genre developed into one of the most popular in México.

Tourism and fishing are the main, “legal industries” in Mazatlán, which is the unofficial center of the narcotics trade in Mexico; this having been El Chapo’s domain, leader of the Sinaloa Cartel. Kari had given me “The Cartel” by Don Winslow to read a couple of years ago. And now here I am luxuriating in this beach haven of sin and vice. Things have quieted down … you’re most likely to see a sea of grey and white haired gringo retirees.

Mazatleca cuisine is predominately seafood-oriented dishes including wonderfully fresh ceviches, seafood cocktails, zarandeado fish and ​aguachile​, a delicious shrimp lime concoction. Prices are a bit higher here, of course with tourism.

Typical sweets include coconut candies, jamoncillos (milk and sugar fudge) and other candy made with coconut marshmallows from the region. Knowing David’s sweet tooth, two packages of the famous Mazatlán marshmallows found their way into my luggage and upon receiving them he was one happy camper, popping the puffs as fast as he could.

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Lee’s house is located on a long peninsula south of Mazatlán, so the trek into the town center requires some planning. Do we drive 45 minutes, or opt for a short drive to Stone Island pier (not a real island) at the end of the peninsula and board a Panga (fishing boat turned ferry)? The scenic boat trip wins hands down. It crosses the shipping channel to Mazatlán where two cruise ships were docked side by side – probably the last ones to visit for awhile. The Pangas run 24/7 … one leaves and another one docks.

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We then jumped onto a Pulmonía (pneumonia), an open-air converted vehicle; these being the most efficient way to zoom around the city and observe the sites. We drove almost the whole length of the Malecón (boardwalk), considered one of the longest in the world. Its length is about 8.5 km (over five miles) along the coast, passing by high cliffs, monuments, gazebos, old buildings, hotels and plenty of restaurants.

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For 20 pesos we took a quick peak inside the elegant, restored Angela Peralta Theater. It’s one of Mazatlan’s most important cultural treasures and has played an important role in the revitalization of the Centro Historico. The theater’s namesake, a 19th-century operatic Mexican Diva, was nicknamed the ruiseñor (nightingale) of México; she played packed opera houses across Europe in her heyday.

On 22 August 1883, the beloved diva and her troupe arrived to an elaborate welcome, but tragedy was about to strike. Within three days, she and nearly half of the company’s members were to die in the yellow fever epidemic that swept the port shortly after their arrival.

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Some people dream of how idyllic it would be to practice yoga by the beach. Well, let me tell you … the murmur of waves drowned out the yoga instructor’s voice. All I heard at times was “… if or eggs…” (lift your legs). Heavy humidity hung in the air, making it feel like being in a Bikram hot yoga studio. For most of the session I found myself doing the yogic Breath of Fire exercise and blowing armies of ants off my mat (ugh – hate ants). Despite the distractions, the glorious setting overcame all obstacles. I was grateful for the experience, but got to admit being more of an air-conditioned studio type practitioner.

However, if Yogi Kari were to organize a retreat in this paradise of a place … I’d be more than willing to put up with the ants and humidity just to share the experience with my Yogi family. So people, pack up your bags and see y’all in Mazatlán!

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Mazatlán has a great music scene and our group headed over to the Zona Dorada to the open patio Beer Garden. Ten of us jumped onto the back of a camión ​rojo,​ a converted pickup with tarp roof and sides, and padded side seats. You could never do this in the States … zipping down the toll road into town without a care in the world.

Lee likes to follow one group in particular, Santana Más, a Santana cover band. They were very good at instrumentals, but their singer was a bit pitchy and had an over the top gringo Spanish accent, grating on my sensibilities – oy vey is all I can say.

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​On the Menu …​ Homemade Indian food expertly prepared by Chef Kari; she smuggled all her special spices into México to prepare us a feast: Chicken Tika; Dal (lentils are my fave); Aloo Gibo (potatoes and cauliflower); Turmeric Rice; Raita side dish to cool things down, and even some smuggled Nam bread … an incredible meal deserving of a Maharaja!

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Breakfast was at a charming rooftop cafe called Esinti (meaning “breeze” in Turkish): ​Machaca​, ​Tamal de elote con rajas, chilaquiles and mocajetes.​ OK, not so Turkish, but muy deliciosos.

Afternoon refreshments at the wonderful Panama Bakery/Cafe, a local institution. Here’s where their dessert Ángels roll around multi-tiered carts filled with multiple choices and where resistance is futile; devouring a slice of rich, dark chocolate cake with layers of ​creamy chocolate mousse ~ pure nirvana.

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A ​camarones​ overdose seaside was enjoyed on Stone Island, as we sat under a támara
(date palm), with cool sand tickling our toes, gorging on shrimp ceviche, shrimp Empanadas and shrimp tacos dorados … all washed down with muchas ​margaritas y​ Modelos.

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A final seaside breakfast at the clubhouse: Cheese ​Enfrijoladas​, fried eggs and chilaquiles with sautéed shrimp. And if you were wondering, barely an ounce was gained. Here’s to Amigos y La Buena Vida!

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