“The significance of the cherry blossom tree in Japanese culture goes back hundreds of years. In their country, the cherry blossom represents the fragility and the beauty of life. It’s a reminder that life is almost overwhelmingly beautiful, but that it is also tragically short.”  – Homaro Cantu, American chef  

Japan – Part 6

Hiroshima

Hiroshima is the City of Peace (aka International City of Peace and Culture). It was obliterated when the first ever atomic bomb exploded over it during World War II, on August 6, 1945, causing catastrophic damage, widespread devastation and loss of life.

Despite its total destruction, and impact of the bombing, Hiroshima has since recovered and rebuilt itself entirely, becoming a thriving city of over a million population. It’s rich in history, a vibrant culture, numerous tourist attractions, and a deep commitment to a more peaceful planet. Peace being the operative word whenever Hiroshima is mentioned.

Popular sites include the Peace Memorial Park, built to commemorate the victims of the bombing, and the nearby Atomic Bomb Dome, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a powerful symbol of the destruction caused by the bombing.

When we arrived, banners and signs were plastered all over proclaiming Hiroshima as hosts of the upcoming, prestigious International G7 Conference; with meetings being held there the week of May 19-21. The G7 member states are: France, US, UK, Germany, Italy, Canada and Japan, and the EU.

The government chose Hiroshima as the perfect place due to its dedication in seeking lasting world peace. There’s a palpable sense of pride permeating throughout the city in its designation as the Japanese hosts.

Now I must mention our fantastic Hiroshima tour guide, Tadashi-san or Mr. Tada, as he wanted to be called. A short dynamo of a man, with the energy of the bursting sun, he led us for the next two days at breakneck speed. I thought I walked fast, but Mr. Tada’s stride was hard to match. Boy! Could his short legs move.

I’d compare my reduced stride to his as to the smaller steps of an Emperor’s concubine. David was far back, but Mr. Tada never lost sight of him. He opened a path through the crowds like Moses parting the Red Sea. You get the picture. He was awesome.

A very popular Sakura Season activity is the art of “hanami,” which literally means “flower viewing.” Hanami refers to the traditional Japanese custom of enjoying the beauty of the cherry blossoms (Sakura) by having a picnic or party under the trees.

We, too, got to participate in hanami along the Motoyasu River, taking in some refreshments and some bites that Mr. Tada had brought along. Hundreds of other celebrants were gathered under the beautiful, fully bloomed Sakura. I think there were more people gathered at this picnic than ants.

Peace Memorial

Twenty years ago I first visited Hiroshima and Ground Zero. At that time the city wasn’t as developed as it is today. Mr. Tada brought us to the tram station, and we waited for a specific tram car – the specially designed Hiroshima Toyo Carp baseball team themed car. Lots of red. The baseball season has just begun and the city’s mad about their team (David bought a tee).

The tram ride took us to the iconic Hiroshima Peace Memorial, also known as the Atomic Bomb Dome, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a stark reminder of the devastation caused by the atomic bomb.

From the moment we approached the Dome this beautiful, bright day, I got goosebumps, as strong recollections of past emotions washed over me from that first visit. It was déjà-vu, experiencing the same sense of calmness, and respectful observance walking through the museums and park monuments as back then.

It’s become a physical memorial to the over 140,000 people who were killed, and is a haunting reminder of the horrors of nuclear war. It, too, stands as a testament to the strength and resilience of the people of Hiroshima in the face of unimaginable tragedy.

The 1915 Dome structure was originally the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall; used mainly for art and educational exhibitions. The building was directly under the epicenter of the bomb’s explosion and was one of the few structures to survive the blast. The building remains are shown at top.

Later on, we’d again pass by the building – this time from the river for another haunting glance. It was in the museum that we’d listen to the incredible story of a survivor who jumped into the river and avoided immediate death.

Memorial Museum

The Peace Museum was established in 1955. Its exhibits are focused on the events leading up to the bombing, the impact of it on the city and people, and the ongoing efforts to promote peace and disarmament.

There are many artifacts, photographs, and moving videos of the aftermath. Displays show scientific and political developments that led to the use of nuclear weapons.

One of the most moving exhibits is the collection of personal belongings recovered from the victims. These are the tangible proof of a person’s being, and include clothing, watches, and other everyday items, many of which are still stained with the blood of the victims.

No pun intended, but one of the most striking items on display is a life-size replica of the A-bomb, which was nicknamed Little Boy. Visualizing in person what this nuclear weapon’s destructive power possessed and unleashed is a powerful symbol and message not to ever forget.

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum serves to remind us of the horrors of war and the importance of promoting peace and nuclear disarmament. It’s a moving and thought-provoking museum and I dare you not to let your emotions take over.

Hiroshima Children’s Memorial

Inspired by the story of Sadako Sasaki, a young girl who was two years old when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. Sadako developed leukemia because of the radiation exposure, and while in the hospital, she began folding paper cranes in the hope of recovering from her illness. Cranes are a powerful symbol of hope and resilience in the face of tragedy.

According to Japanese tradition, folding 1,000 paper cranes would grant a person’s wish, and Sadako set out to fold that many cranes. Although she passed away before reaching her goal, her story inspired others to fold cranes in her memory, and for those children who were killed in the bombing.

The Memorial features a statue of Sadako holding a golden crane and standing atop a granite pedestal. The pedestal is surrounded by glass cases filled with thousands of colorful origami paper cranes, folded by people from around the world. Visitors to the memorial are invited to contribute their own paper cranes to the display.

There are other monuments that you can visit around the park; quiet areas where you can escape the throngs of tourists. They all carry a unifying message referring to one of man’s darkest day in history …

“Rest in peace, for the error shall not be repeated.”

Shukkeien Gardens

A green oasis in the heart of the city. Here, Mr. Tada approached me and asked my permission to ask a delicate question, as he put it. He wanted to know our ages because the gardens have free admission to anyone over 65. Gotta love the Japanese politeness. And we definitely like anything that’s free.

The gardens are a historic green refuge located in the heart of the city, serving as an actual refuge for injured bomb victims. Its origins began in the 17^th century and was designed to reflect traditional Japanese aesthetics with tea houses, waterfalls, and carefully manicured trees and plants. They’re all carefully and meticulously integrated into the landscape. The overall effect created a peaceful sense of tranquility and beauty for one to savor.

We strolled along winding paths, and stone bridges that led us through groves of bamboo and maple trees. The Sakura were in full bloom, with some areas of the gardens looking as if they were covered in snow, as the falling petals from the cherry blossoms trees had begun with the breezes. We saw koi fish swimming in the pond and turtles sitting on the aptly named Turtle Island.

Mr. Tada pointed out a stately, old gingko biloba tree to us that had survived the atomic bomb and had bent and changed its direction in the mighty blast.

After trying to keep up all day with Mr. Tada-san’s wonderful, whirlwind tour, it was time to crash. Dinner tonight was picked up at a convenience store at the Hiroshima Train Station next to our hotel: sweets for David and salty for me. It’s not always gourmet; simple snacks can be savored, too.

Miyajima Island

Mr. Tada, a true Boy Scout, greeted us in the morning with his large backpack and tote bag full of information literature, and other goodies we’d soon discover. We are headed to Miyajima Island … via train, ferry and a fast catamaran that would return us to the mainland and the Memorial Park Pier.

The water views of the Hiroshima coastline were sensational. It was a full day of unexpected surprises, with Mr. Tada leading the way. Of course, he again parted the ways for us and got us a terrific front row standing view of the fantastic scenery from the ferry.

Miyajima Island is a holy Shinto site. As we approached, we saw the most iconic, recognizable, and picturesque Torri gate in Japan, the Great Torii Gate of Itsukushima, built in the 12^th century. Its large, vermilion-painted torii gate stands impressively in the waters of Hiroshima Bay, just offshore from the Itsukushima Shrine. The vermilion color is used to keep evil spirits away.

Both are UNESCO World Heritage sites. The Great Torii Gate is an important symbol and has cultural significance. Any Japanese tourist promotion will feature this immense, striking structure. It measures over 16 meters tall and weighs approximately 60 tons;, and is made of camphor wood. It’s been rebuilt many times; the current gate was constructed in 1875 and is the eighth version of the gate to be built.

One of the most striking features of the Gate is that it appears to be floating on the water during high tide. This creates a unique and beautiful visual effect, especially during sunrise and sunset. The gate is illuminated at night, adding to its beauty and mystique.

As we arrived on the island, the Gate floated mystically over the bay, and as we left later that afternoon, we were able to walk underneath it, thanks to the ebb tides flowing out.

Once our ferry landed, there wasn’t time for visiting the temple just yet, but a mad dash to reach the Miyajima Ropeway; a cable car system that connects Miyajima Island to the top of sacred Mount Misen, the island’s highest peak at 535 meters.

At the top of the ropeway, we had stunning views of the island and the surrounding Seto Inland Sea, the waterway connecting the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Japan. From here we had access to several hiking trails and other attractions on Mount Misen. Off in the distance we could see Hiroshima; below us in the sea were the oyster farms that Hiroshima is famous for.

And now, it was teatime … Mr. Tada had packed hot green tea and cherry blossom inspired sweets in his backpack. Thankfully, because we’d need that energy for the rest of the climb up Mt. Misen.

This was a two-phase hike; the first part was a 45-minute hike leading us to Misen Hondo Hall, a Buddhist temple located near the summit of Mount Misen. Key word near, for we are not there yet. 

The temple is dedicated to the worship of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, and it’s one of the most sacred places in the region. Please, dear gods, show some mercy as we continue our climb up.

After many huffs ‘n puffs, the summit was ours! A third of a mile in the sky and the Misen Observatory views were stunning. Again, Mr. Tada to the rescue … he pulled out small bento boxes and water from his backpack, which thankfully lightened his load. I’d previously offered to help carry something, but it was politely declined. And thankfully, too, lunch replenished our strength for the trip back down to sea level.

The Itsukushima Shrine

It was now low tide as we entered the Itsukushima Shrine. Since it was a Shinto shrine, we offered some coins and the proper salutation of 2 bows/2 claps/a prayer and final bow to the Shinto gods.

In addition to its cultural and historical significance, the Itsukushima Shrine is also an important place of worship for followers of Shintoism. Shinto (literally “the way of the gods”) is a religion and Japan’s native belief system. It’s often said to be Japan’s indigenous religion, revolving around the land and seasons and their relations with humans.

The Shrine is dedicated to the three daughters of the Shinto deity, Susano-o no Mikoto, who is believed to have founded the shrine back in the 6^th century. The main shrine buildings were originally constructed in the 12^th century and have been rebuilt several times over the centuries. The current buildings date back to the 16^th century. We’re talking old.

One of the most unique features is its location. The buildings are built on stilts over the water, and during high tide, they appear to be floating on the water. This creates a stunning visual effect that has made the shrine a popular destination for centuries.

Today, we encountered some rather odd and unusual tourists: dog strollers toting five miniature pedigree canines. It was a sight to see these pampered pooches, perhaps awaiting blessings from Inugami, the dog god/spirit. What a hoot!

Okonomiyaki

Hiroshima is well-known for its culinary scene, featuring a variety of delicious local specialties, including oysters, and the Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, a savory pancake topped and layered with cabbage, meat, and other ingredients.

Oh, Okonomiyaki. Where have you been all my life? It’s become one of my favorite new dishes; full of textures and umami flavors that explode in your mouth. The name is derived from the word okonomi, meaning “how you like” or “what you like,” and yaki, meaning “grilled,” … and I like!

It’s sometimes referred to as a “Japanese pizza” and compares to an omelet or pancake. Pizza, pancake, omelet … whatever it is, it’s a masterful concoction that begins with a savory pancake made of wheat flour batter. Other ingredients are then piled on high with its many layers, mixed together, or as toppings, and cooked on a hot teppan (flat griddle). Call it whatever, let’s just eat!

Usual add-ins include cabbage, meat, seafood, and noodles; toppings: okonomiyaki sauce (made with Worcestershire sauce), aonori (dried seaweed flakes), katsuobushi (bonito flakes), Japanese mayonnaise, and pickled ginger. Can U say Umami?! And lots of it.

Preparing the dish is a show in itself. It’s cooked and assembled on a diner-style counter grill in front of you … a front row seat watching the cook whip up the dish for you. The pancake is pan-fried on both sides of the teppan, using metal spatulas that are later used to cut the dish when it’s finished cooking.

This dish is so popular that there are over 2,000 okonomiyaki restaurants in the city! We tried two. Mr. Tada led us to the “Temple of Okonomiyaki” at the Okonomi-mura, a 7-story building with floor-after-floor serving nothing but Okonomiyaki! This location is one of the top “food park” destinations for families in Hiroshima; each tiny restaurant holds no more than 8-18 seats. Think of a food court gone wild.

We ate at Itsukushima (named after the Shrine), a small shop owned and operated by a father and daughter. The chef cooked in silence, all the while serving up great food with bright smiles. This stand uses lots of green onions, though the layers are pretty much the same all over. The combinations and selection of ingredients and sauces all have their own uniqueness, but this was Mr. Tada-san’s favorite and of course, ours.

David selected the special plate, with shrimp and pork, and I had the pork and grilled oysters that were plump and briny … all washed down with a cold, local beer on tap. Oysters are a common specialty dish in Hiroshima, as the bay is teeming with oyster farms, which we saw from atop the mountain, so you know they’re fresh-from-the-bay-fresh.

So, how do you eat Okonomiyaki straight from the grill that’s been prepared right in front of you? Once cooked, the chef just slides the whole beautiful mess over to you. The piled-high, big pancake is cut into several manageable pieces, and transferred to small plates. Pick up your chopsticks and go at it. Unbelievably delicious. What a fun, enjoyable meal. Kanpai! Cheers!

We’re off next to Osaka (and a popular Okonomiyaki destination, too), but there was one more little surprise for us as we’re waiting for our Shinkansen at Hiroshima Station, Mr. Tada suddenly appeared to wish us goodbye. He didn’t have to be there, but chose to be – what a guy – Japanese hospitality rocks!

As seen on the streets……

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