“The way to Everest is not a Yellow Brick Road.” – Jon Krakauer, American writer and mountaineer

Mount Everest

The day began with prayers to The Buddha for great weather. We had a dawn flight on Buddha Airlines ATR-72, to get a chance to glance at the tallest mountain in the world, Everest, and beyond – the whole Himalayan Range. My excitement began peaking the night before, so there was no need for an alarm clock to make this incredible trip. The weather was perfect.

The flight is an hour roundtrip and both sides of the plane get a full view of the mountain range – first the left side, then on the return, the right side. All of our seats are window seats. I was lucky that the window seat across the aisle from me was empty, so I got a double dose of the breathtaking views of this immense, natural wonder.

We were handed a map of the Himalayan range, and I said to myself, “Great. I need to count the peaks until we get to Everest,” but, to my surprise, the crew kept walking up and down the aisle, and pointing out the different mountains, which proved extremely helpful.

On the return, we were buzzing about the natural spectacle just witnessed and wishing for coffee to continue the buzz. I jokingly mentioned being a bit disappointed, that back in LA they’ve got a big sign in the hills – the famous HOLLYWOOD sign. Somebody quickly responded, “Yes, we should have had someone waving to us as we flew by!” We all had a good laugh and were ready for more exciting adventures that would unfold today.

Some background on Mount Everest: it’s the highest mountain in the world at 29,031.7 feet above sea level. It’s located on the border between Nepal and Tibet and has long captured the imaginations of adventurers and mountaineers.

Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa of Nepal, were the first confirmed climbers to reach the summit on May 29, 1953. It was the Sherpa who reached it first.

The two main routes for climbing Everest are the Southeast Ridge from Nepal and the North Ridge from Tibet. Climbing Everest is extremely dangerous due to factors like altitude sickness, unpredictable weather, and the risk of avalanches. The “Death Zone” (above 26,646 feet) is especially perilous due to low oxygen levels.

Known as “Sagarmatha” in Nepali and “Chomolungma” in Tibetan, Everest holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for the people of the Himalayas.

Patan

Patan, also known as Lalitpur (City of Beauty), is one of the oldest and most culturally rich cities in Nepal. It’s just south of Kathmandu and was historically an independent kingdom. It’s also believed to have been established around the third century BC.

On the drive to Patan, our guide, Anup, kept describing why Patan is called the City of Beauty. Well, to be honest, my first impressions were much to be desired. We walked through a busy, colorful market street where it seemed everything and anything was for sale: fresh goat meat hanging on hooks, live chickens, and a large variety of fruits and veggies at peak seasonal freshness. Some of the buildings were still in a mass of crumble from a lack of funds for repairs from the last devastating earthquake. So, where’s the beauty?

Patan’s architecture is a blend of Newari and Indian styles produced with expert craftsmanship, particularly in metalwork and woodcarving. Artisans in the city created imposing statues of Hindu and Buddhist deities; today, jewelry and other artifacts are highly sought after both locally and internationally.

We kept on walking through busy city streets and neighborhoods set in a wild maze of narrow alleys, and a spiderweb-like network of overhead wire connections in a crazy, mixed-up display of electrical and internet cables. It made me wonder how the utility company knows who they belong to and which and when repair is needed. I’d normally say, “It’s Mexico!” but it’s not.

Continuing on, our path revealed hidden courtyards and passageways, passing by smaller temples that offered a glimpse into the city’s past.

But I was still failing to see the beauty until the last alleyway. Suddenly, it opens onto Durbar (Plaza) Square in the city’s pulsating heart and one of the most famous UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal; with its glorious preservation of Newari culture predominating. The Square is a complex of ancient palaces, courtyards, temples, and statues. Pagoda-style temples have intricately-carved wooden windows and doors, brick facades, and terracotta designs.

By this time, I wished to be a Chameleon so that my eyes could dart and independently rotate to provide 360-degree vision in order to admire and take-in all the incredible, intricate beauty surrounding me.

The buildings around the square are filled with gorgeous designs and stone carvings, making the whole place one big photo op. We wandered into a courtyard within the royal palace complex, famous for its beautiful stone carvings and a bath known as the Tusha Hiti.

The peacock window outside the Dattatreya Temple, often called the “Mona Lisa of Nepal,” is an exquisite masterpiece of wood carving. It depicts a detailed peacock with its feathers fanned out in a circular design, framed by ornate patterns.

It’s lunchtime, but I chose to skip it, because just outside the restaurant, we were greeted by two Nepalese women cooking on earthenware pots; one making a flat bread made from chickpea flour and the other making a pot of kettle corn. All I needed was a box of Junior Mints, to make one of my favorite food combinations. How could I pass on these treats?!

Bagmati River and Cremation Ghats

The Bagmati River is considered holy, and it’s believed that those who die or are cremated along its banks will achieve moksha (liberation from the cycle of life and death). The cremation ghats (platforms) along the river are constantly in use, and funeral rites are performed in accordance with Hindu customs.

It was a privilege for me to witness actual, traditional cremation ceremonies from across the river; also, seeing the priest appearing riverside doing rituals.

From here was a view of the temple complex filled with numerous small shrines and lingams dedicated to Lord Shiva, as well as other deities. These shrines are scattered across the area and reflect the deep spiritual connection the site has for devotees.

This area is also home to many Sadhus, or Hindu holy men, who renounce their worldly possessions and dedicate their lives to meditation and the worship of Lord Shiva. These stark-appearing Sadhus, often covered in ash and wearing colorful robes, are a unique part of the temple’s spiritual environment.

Prior to dinner tonight, we were truly honored to hear a lecture/talk by Maya Sherpa, a highly accomplished Nepali mountaineer known for her trailblazing achievements in the climbing world. The last name of Sherpa refers specifically to an ethnic group native to the mountainous regions of Nepal, primarily in the Solukhumbu District near Mount Everest. Sherpas are a distinct ethnic community with their own language, culture, and traditions. Their name comes from “Sharwa,” which means “people of the East” in their native Tibetan-derived language.

Maya Sherpa has successfully summited Everest three times! She scaled it from both the north and south sides, making her one of the few Nepali women to achieve this amazing feat. Beyond Everest, she has climbed other formidable peaks such as Cho Oyu, Pumori, Baruntse, and K2, which she ascended in 2014 as part of the first Nepali women’s team to do so.

She actively advocates for women’s empowerment in Nepal, demonstrating that women can excel in high-risk, traditionally male-dominated fields like mountaineering. Her expeditions often highlight teamwork and resilience.

I was so moved and enthralled by her story that I bought her children’s book as a gift for my little grand-niece, Havana. It’s a story of female empowerment and hope she’s able to appreciate this heroic tale and leave an impression.

Sad to say, tonight’s dinner was downright dismal. What were they were thinking serving a pizza slice, fried fish sticks, broccoli, dal and rice and some beef that was so tough?! A crocodile’s powerful jaws would have passed on it. It’s a good thing that I keep snacks handy back in my room that David packs for me; knowing that they’d come in handy.

The day has come and gone in full circle. From admiring this majestic mountain from afar to hearing the harrowing climb to the crest from someone who has experienced it.

Tomorrow, we head down southwest of Kathmandu, close to the border with India and take the shortest commercial flight I’ve ever taken.

As seen on the streets …