“There’s a lot of optimism in changing scenery, in seeing what’s down the road.”

• Conor Oberst, American singer-songwriter

It’s always an exciting and fun adventure to hit the road again, and further explore Mexico’s great colonial towns and cities. With visiting friends in tow, we traveled to the enchanting, hilly Mexican colonial city of Guanajuato City. It’s located in the north-central state of Guanajuato; a 3 ½ hour drive from home. But first, a few side trips were made along the way.

SAN JUAN DE LOS LAGOS

San Juan de los Lagos, is 2 ½ hours down the toll road, in the region known as Los Altos (The Heights). It’s home to a famous, small image of the Virgin Mary called Our Lady of San Juan de los Lagos. She sits within the main altar of the Cathedral Basilica of our Lady of San Juan de los Lagos, dating to 1732.

The Virgin’s image is just 15 inches tall, and made of sugar cane paste. It’s believed to have been brought to the area from Michoacán in the early 1500s.

The first notable miracle ascribed to the this Virgin dates back to 1623, and has made San Juan de los Lagos the second most visited pilgrimage site in Mexico. Each January, over one million strong make the yearly trek to pray and pay their respects.

The town’s 17^th-century historic central buildings are built of a lovely, pale pink sandstone. The Cathedral’s pale pink façade has two narrow Baroque towers, and a portal with three levels and a crest. The bright sunshine gives these structures a light and luminous glow.

The sacristy contains oil paintings and furniture rich with incrustations. Unbelievably, the chamber behind the main altar contains six paintings created by the Flemish Old Master Renaissance painter, Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640). Sadly, these are not available for public viewing; as I confirmed with one of the fathers, trying to get special dispensation to view these great masterpieces.

My friend, Cyndi, and I have this joke, that every time we found a very convenient parking space, we give thanks to the fictional San Mateo del Parqueo, our very own parking saint. So, it amused me to no end, that sitting right off the main altar was the clear sarcophagus of our Señora del Transito (Lady of Transit). I kid you not. Seriously, who knew you can make LA traffic go away by praying to our Lady of Transit. I would have spent less time crawling along on the 405.

DOLORES HIDALGO

Our second side stop was the colonial town, Dolores Hidalgo, a Pueblo Mágico, known as the birthplace of Mexican National Independence.

The city was a small town known simply as Dolores, when Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla uttered his famous cry for the independence of Mexico, “El Grito de Dolores”, there in the early hours of September 16, 1810, in front of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores parish church. After Mexico achieved independence, the town was renamed Dolores Hidalgo in his honor.

Today, Dolores Hidalgo is known primarily for its major pottery/ceramics industry, started by Father Hidalgo. The inexpensive and mass-produced output of the town is marketed throughout Latin America and the United States.

With limited time, we lamely hunted for some pottery to buy, but were overwhelmed with the shops stacked ceiling high displaying their colorful wares.

GUANAJUATO

Guanajuato, with its original and very long colonial name, Ciudad de Santa Fe y Real de Minas de Guanajuato; hints to its past fortunes with “Minas” (mines). It was the richest and most influential mining city during the Spanish colonial period with its abundant minerals found in the surrounding mountains. During the 18^th-century, it was the world’s leading silver producing center providing for the city’s fast growth and wealth.

This colorful, vibrant and cultural university town has to be one of my favorites of all the Mexican cities we’ve visited so far. Its nickname, “Jewel of America,” says it all. In 1988, it was proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. James Michener’s fascinating book, “Mexico,” is written with Guanajuato as its inspiration.

Guanajuato is situated in a narrow gorge, which makes its streets narrow and winding with many alleyways that cars cannot pass through. Long abandoned mining tunnels have been turned into thoroughfares that are partially or fully underground.

I’m used to driving all over the world, but Guanajuato’s streets are downright hair-raising, harrowing experiences, due to the narrowness, and its one-way directions. If you miss a turn – well, good luck.

Turns out, our hotel parking was on the other side of town, and through a tunnel over a kilometer long, making for a nice workout upon parking. See photo of our friend, Linda, as she valiantly traversed its length, followed by Rita bringing up the rear.

When it was time to pick up the car for the drive home, I used the help of our bellboy to guide me back to the hotel. Let’s just say that there were more than a few tunnels involved, and plenty of barely passable passages.

Our hotel is a restored 18^th-century house, Hotel El Meson de los Poetas. It’s conveniently located just around the corner from the Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora, in the Plaza de la Paz, in the historic city center.

Each room is inspired by a different poet … we had the Walt Whitman Suite. It’s tastefully decorated in period furniture, with double chandeliers hanging in our room, lending a bit of elegance. The balcony faced onto the narrow street below with a lovely view of Guanajuato.

The streets and alleys of the city center are filled with mostly colonial-era buildings. Walking about the cobblestone streets, there’s color everywhere you look, with beautifully constructed buildings of pink or green sandstone, adobe and other stone. The landscaped streets are filled with striking shades of pink, green, ocher and red. A surprise awaits as you suddenly turn into an otherwise hidden small plaza; lending itself a European feel, most with a church fronting it.

Guanajuato offers a great many eating options. Restaurants, bars, and cafes with terraces abound, amid a lively scene of university students, tourists, local characters and even strolling student minstrels, known as “Estudiantinas.”  

The charming, La Table de Andrée, French restaurant, provided us with an incredible dining experience; just a short walk up the street from our hotel. The chef, Thierry, comes from NE France, and marries French techniques and adds Mexican flair (it so happens that his honey is a Mexican woman).

With many tempting appetizers to choose from, it was decided to order most of them along with a couple of main entrees. A wise decision that paid off deliciously.

Plate after plate began arriving: melted brie squares over jalapeño jelly and the pork paté infused with serrano pepper leaned towards the Mexican influence. The duck confit taquitos with a dash of avocado cream, and a touch of mint was my absolute favorite.

Flammekueche or Flamm is a dish I haven’t seen on a menu since my working days in Switzerland. It’s a specialty of the Alsace region of NE France; composed of bread dough rolled out very thinly in a rectangle or oval shape, and then covered with fromage blanc or crème fraîche, thinly sliced onions and lardons (bacon). Here, Thierry uses wild mushrooms and Mexican green onions. We also ordered a salmon and onion Flamm – Mmmm!

Main entrées: shrimp curry with a touch of cognac and an excellent risotto (never been a fan, but this version was very tasty), and a dish of ground beef, chorizo and spices, mashed together with mashed potatoes and served in a casserole with melted cheese; reminiscent of a deconstructed Shepherd’s Pie.

A few doors up from our hotel is the bright red Diego Rivera House Museum. The famous muralist and painter was born here, and spent his early childhood. You know him, too, as Frida Kahlo’s philandering husband. The first floor is dedicated to furniture and other items from the late 19^th-century. The above floors contain a large collection of paintings, about 100 of which are Rivera’s early and little-known works.

Like many painters, Diego, went through multiple periods and styles in his early years, and the artworks on display gave me a broader view into his talent, than just the famous murals that he’s so well known for.

Guanajuato is home to a most unusual museum and its #1 top tourist attraction, Museo de las Momias, the macabre Mummy Museum. There wasn’t enough time to stop by, but we’d seen it on a prior visit (photo shown are from that trip).

It contains a collection of over 100 naturally mummified bodies found in the nearby municipal cemetery between the mid-19^th and 20^th-centuries. The high mineral content of the soil perfectly preserved them.

El amor, el amor … Of the many alleyways, the most famous is the Callejón del Beso (Alley of the Kiss). The alley forms a romantic alcove with two balconies separated by only 27 inches, and is the scene of a famous story of Amor, and now a ritual for couples in love to share un beso, a kiss.

The legend has it that two people in love, Carlos and Ana, met clandestinely and kissed one another between the two close balconies. Ana was rich; Carlos, a poor miner.

Ana’s father threatened to send Ana to a convent if she left the house to see Carlos. Her balcony reached over the alley and nearly touched the balcony of the neighboring house. Carlos found out who owned it and arranged access.

One evening, while the two were on their balconies, Ana’s father discovered them as Carlos held Ana’s hand between his own. Enraged, Ana’s father stabbed her, leaving the shocked Carlos holding the hand of his beloved as she died, and he bestows one last kiss upon his beloved, and then commits suicide in the La Valenciana mine.  

Nowadays, lovers of all ages, pay the 100 pesos fee to recreate the kiss, resulting in eternal love; allegedly.

Teatro Juárez, sitting off the main Jardin or Plaza, is one of the most beautiful and grand theaters in México. It was built from 1872 to 1903 in the Neoclassical style with a striking façade gloriously topped off with nine sculptures depicting the nine Muses of Greek mythology.

Just steps away is the funicular ~ the cable car that rises up to the Pípila Monument on San Miguel Hill. This is a fun, two-minute ride that brings you up to the monument honoring the local miner and insurgent, who was proclaimed a War of Independence hero, and nicknamed El Pípila (a hen turkey). From there you see a spectacular, panoramic view of the city.

El Pípila carried a stone slab upon his back to shield himself from Spanish gun fire. This way, he was able to torch the main entrance, the wooden doors, of Alhóndiga de Granaditas (grain warehouse), where the Spanish were barricaded in September 1810. It allowed them to win the first battle on the road to independence.

Our last evening, David and I headed out to explore, but got sidelined by a foot race being held in the city center; creating a crazy pedestrian traffic jam.

A detour led us to the Costal Cultura restaurant …stumbled upon by accident. Their drink menu was extensive and creative; coupled with some appetizers: pillowy soft black corn sopes stuffed with cochinita pibil, a tuna aguachile with a light soy touch, and ceviche, which married fruits, citrus and fish to a perfect balance. Here we found another gem to return to in the future.

The early bird catches the Torta … it’s 9:00 Sunday morning, and slowly the Hidalgo Market comes alive. Built in 1910, its beautiful façade, made of pink stone, is topped by an iron tower and roof with cupola and four-faced clock. Windows allow the giant interior to slowly flood with natural light.

The market sells typical candies and sweets of the region, popular food stalls, craft and souvenir shops.

Jayne has joined us and recommends a breakfast of champions: Tortas de Carnitas (Pork sandwiches) from the Carnitas Sam food stall. They’re the pioneer of making carnitas in the traditional Guanajuato style.

We early birders plopped ourselves down in the limited seating available around the counter. What could be more simpler, sublime and delicious than a freshly baked, crusty bread stuffed with succulent shredded pork?! Nothing more need be added, however, their wide variety of salsas and pickled vegetables were on hand to enhance the incredibly tender, and lean pork that had been marinated for a powerful umami flavor.

A nearby juice stand provided fresh squeezed orange juice that tasted as if the oranges were just picked off the tree. Good food provides memories that last a lifetime. Carnitas Sam’s tortas are just so worthy of a memory.

Besides Sam’s, other eateries cluster nearby, with “Fonda” styled places in an adjacent building. There, the sellers hawk at you and tempt you with their tasty menus. My favorite screaming came from the second floor from a guy waving a sign stating, “If you don’t like what you eat, you don’t pay” – a promise we’ll hopefully not have to collect on our next visit.

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

Finally … one last stop …

San Miguel de Allende, has for many years, been at the top of the list of the world’s most beautiful cities. Its historic center is part of a proclaimed World Heritage Site.

The city is famous for its estimated two thousand doors, each one trying to outdo another. Many residences beyond the doorways have been restored to their former colonial state, with façades of ochre, orange and yellow; with windows and doors framed by handcrafted ironwork and made of hewn wood.

Developments over the past decade, combined with its close proximity to Mexico City (170 miles away), has now attracted thousands of daytime visitors, both national and international travelers.

This time around, SMA felt like we’d just landed in a backstage recreation of a colonial Mexican city at Universal Studios. It was a Saturday and the city was flooded with visitors.

Our Central Mexico visit impressed us with the unique charm of these colonial cities. Guanajuato especially delivered on its plentiful sites, cultural institutions and most importantly ~ the food!

The city’s lively street life, vibrant and accessible arts and culture, and youthful academia, combined with affordable living bestows the Jewel of America its rightful nickname.

We especially enjoyed hearing the legendary stories of love and war that gives the city its magic and keeps inviting you back.