“There’s something magical about Oaxaca and the vibe of the people.” Mike White

On: January 9, 2019
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Our first Mexican adventure begins … beginning at Guadalajara’s domestic terminal (vs. International) and the organized chaos with its many regional air carriers …

… to Oaxaca (English: wə-HAH-kə, Spanish: [waˈxaka] the sound is from the Nahuatl languages: Huāxyacac, pronounced [waːʃˈjakak]. Oaxaca is located in Southeastern Mexico. It is bordered by the states of Guerrero to the west, Puebla to the northwest, Veracruz to the north, Chiapas to the east. To the south, Oaxaca has a significant coastline on the Pacific Ocean.

The state is best known for its indigenous peoples and cultures. The most numerous and best known are the Zapotecs and the Mixtecs, but there are sixteen that are officially recognized. These cultures have survived better than most others in Mexico due to the state’s rugged and isolating terrain. Most live in the Central Valleys region, which is also an economically important area for tourism with its archeological sites such as Monte Albán and Mitla and its various native cultures and crafts. Another important tourist area is the coast. Oaxaca is also one of the most biologically diverse states in Mexico, ranking in the top three, along with Chiapas and Veracruz, for numbers of reptiles, amphibians, mammals and plants.

After a short early morning flight on Volaris, which has taken no frills travel to a new level, they will, not only nickel you to death, but will continue after 💀. Want a glass of water, you will get a bottle but it’s an extra 40 pesos……..the plane we flew smelled new and the crews’ smiles never left their faces(you were welcome on board and wished a good day as you departed) hear that US carriers?

A short taxi ride brought us to our centrally located hotel in Oaxaca City; pre-checked in and quickly took off to explore – heading off to El Zócalo or main square. There, we quickly spotted a busy sidewalk cafe and took a street front table for a sweet, long breakfast with an ever changing human parade.

On the menu: scrambled eggs with zucchini blossoms and the best refried chunky black beans sprinkled with cotija cheese … a basket of miniature Mexican sweet breads, fresh squeezed orange juice and cappuccinos. David ordered chicken tamales en mole – Oaxaca is best known for its mole – two were brought to the table wrapped in banana leaves, as he unwrapped them, the smokey, herbal aroma was intoxicating, needless to say they quickly disappeared.

It was time to explore the city … our first stop its beautiful cathedral, a humungous, neoclassical building dating back to 1733; the two prior buildings on this site were destroyed by earthquakes. We decided to jump on a two hour city tour bus, although all in Spanish, David was able to capture most of it, with me translating the most important highlights…….the tour included three stops:

Nieves Oaxacan ice cream seller, where we were treated to a variety of flavors: Beso Oaxacaño – a sweet concoction of carrots, Mole – too smokey for my taste and Leche Quemada, a bitter taste like sour cream and chocolate – sweet and with a light cinnamon fragrance – the winner to my taste buds

We also stopped at a local textile weaver and a Lata artisan (aluminum sheet artist). We saw demonstrations of both of their detailed crafts and their beautiful, displayed art works.

After the tour we continued exploring the city, with a break at the luxurious Quinta Real Hotel (old convent) for afternoon cocktails in a beautiful courtyard setting … the drinks, Mezcalinas, recommended by our server – a fruity combination of local fruits and mescal – Oaxaca is a major producer, accompanied by botanas (small, salty snacks)……,needless to say we stayed for a few rounds.