“Thousands of candles can be lighted from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared”. Buddha

Thimphu, Bhutan

The next two days promise to be a nonstop marathon, culminating in one unforgettable last evening in Shangri La.

Memorial Chorten

The Memorial Chorten, is a significant Buddhist stupa dedicated to the memory of Bhutan’s third monarch, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, who played a crucial role in modernizing the country. The stupa was built in 1974 and features elaborate carvings and paintings; perhaps you can call it Bhutan’s Taj Mahal, since I got the same sense of beauty beholding this structure as I stepped through its threshold.

The Memorial Chorten is a receptacle for offerings, containing religious relics, and is a popular site with locals for daily prayers and meditation. Surrounding the stupa, you’ll see them circumambulating and engaging in spiritual practices, reflecting the cultural reverence for this monument. Our group was privileged to join in. All of us became lost in our thoughts, with its serene atmosphere and slow humming of prayers and chanting floating in the background. It all became a beautiful harmony for one’s soul.

There are a total of 108 prayer wheels on the stupa’s grounds, along with a monastery and a candle house. Spinning the wheels is believed to bring blessings and merit.

The candle house structure is located near the chorten. It’s where you can light butter lamps or candles as part of your prayers. Lighting these lamps is a traditional practice believed to bring light to one’s life, symbolizing the dispelling of ignorance and the illumination of wisdom. It generates positive karma and creates merit, benefiting both the individual lighting the lamp and all humans. Who doesn’t need a little bit of good, positive karma?!

Takin Zoo

Takins are Bhutan’s national animal, native to the Eastern Himalayas. They have their own unique wildlife park dedicated to them. The Takin Zoo is designed to mimic the animal’s natural habitat, and provides them a safe and comfortable environment.

This hoofed herbivore is in the same family as goats and sheep, but is much larger and stockier; has short legs, and distinctive features: a broad head and long, curved horns. Their shaggy coats vary in color, typically ranging from brown to golden, and provides them insulation against the bitter winters. The coat is also covered in a strong-smelling, oily secretion that repels moisture and marks territory.

As the national animal, takins have a special place in the hearts of the Bhutanese people, symbolizing their deep connection to nature and spiritual traditions. It’s highly regarded and often associated with various myths and legends.

According to one popular legend, the takin was created by a 15th-century lama, who wanted to make a single animal from the bones of a cow and a goat – you got to appreciate a monk with a sense of humor!

The zoo showcases various birds, small mammals, and reptiles; many of which are native to the Bhutanese forests. There’s the Himalayan Monal, a pheasant native to the Himalayan region, known for its vibrant plumage. We also saw plenty of Sambar Deer, a large herbivorous mammal with magnificent antlers.

The zoo has built multi-leveled catwalks that provide great photo ops to capture these creatures. With their fascinating and distinctive appearance, the takin has captivated locals and visitors with its mythical origins and ecological significance.

Big Buddha Hill

Big Buddha Hill features the striking, gigantic Buddha Dordenma statue, standing mightily at 54 meters or 177 feet tall; that’s about as tall as The Leaning Tower of Pisa.

This monumental statue is made of bronze and coated in shimmering gold, giving it a majestic glow that can be seen from many parts of Thimphu Valley.

It’s a masterpiece of both spiritual and architectural significance and is one of the largest, seated Buddhas in the world.

On the drive up the winding, narrow mountain road, I noticed that cars were parked everywhere, with not an inch of flat or slightly inclined ground left available. “What’s going on?” I asked our guide, Leki. He replied that there’s always some type of religious ceremony going on.

As soon as we walked into the temple’s main plaza, rows and rows of colorful prayer flags were fluttering in the breeze. A humongous tent held thousands of worshippers – all chanting in unison, and creating one beautiful, heavenly sound. I stood and took in the scene and all my senses were heightened. Listen and watch, as I was able to record it …

As with all temples in Bhutan, no photos are ever allowed, but take my word for it, your eyes teared at the great beauty found inside: the details, colors, carved columns, the multiple altars with their deity; vivid textiles, copper bowls and, oh what colors! I might not have any pictures, but I can close my eyes and visualize it all.

The site offers 360 degrees of panoramic views, and there are various smaller shrines and meditation rooms, providing a serene atmosphere for reflection, meditation, and prayer, all in a peaceful setting.

We took an hour’s hike behind the Buddha and saw glorious views of Thimphu and the surrounding mountains; dotted by prayer flags, some vivid as a bright, shiny day, others faded a ghostly white by the elements.

Prayer flags are colorful fabric pieces traditionally used in Tibetan Buddhism. They’re often hung outside on mountainsides, rooftops, or in places of spiritual significance. Each flag typically has a mantra or symbol printed on it, and they are believed to carry blessings and good wishes into the world as the wind blows them.

The five colors of the flags: blue, white, red, green, and yellow, are said to represent the five elements: sky, air, fire, water, and earth.

At a rest stop, we all wrote something meaningful on some provided flags, and on a windy mountaintop, Leki and Shezden added ours to the hundreds of flags flapping about. We leave behind our prayers and wishes.

Leki had talked about a tour-ending picnic lunch. I’d imagined a nice, boxed lunch, but after exiting the trail, we came across a big, blue tent set-up with white tablecloths and silverware ~ a Bhutanese picnic! The food was catered by the restaurant that served our first meal, as I’d recognized one of the staff. The buffet lunch recharged our energy, as we still had much more ground to cover.

Our next two stops are truly a blend of the modern world and the traditional.

School of Astrology

Want to learn about your future? Then predictions given at The School of Astrology are what’s in-store for you at this popular institution for the study of traditional astrology, known as “nangshing.” It’s the kingdom’s only college dedicated to astrology.

It’s deeply intertwined with the culture, spirituality, and daily life of the Bhutanese. The locals visit every year to learn of their fortunes regarding money, health, career, luck and more. It influences everything from personal decisions to the timing of momentous occasions.

Students learn various aspects of astrology, including celestial calculations, horoscopes, and the impact of astrological signs on life. The curriculum often includes teachings on Buddhist philosophy, and its relation to astrology, reflecting the country’s rich, spiritual heritage.

We were given a piece of paper listing seven personal options, including our birth date. The astrologer was going to provide us with predictions based on our answers and reveal some interesting facts. One of those surprised me – learning that my spiritual animal is the “bird.”

I’d always thought it to be a “horse,” since I have a high affinity for them, but after returning to the hotel, I googled “bird as a spiritual animal,” and it sort of made sense to me. The rest of the predictions were also pretty much on target …

My element is, of course, fire; my color – what else but red; lucky number 7; and Thursday is my chosen “good day” of the week (Thursday was always when my work week ended). My medicinal day is Wednesday; and since I’ve retired, all doctors’ appointments are scheduled for that day; bad day Monday – oh that day; I don’t like the beginning of the week, and my god/goddess is Tara. Now you know all there is to know about me.

But here lies the problem – which one of the 21 different forms of the goddess is my protector? Tara is considered the female Bodhisattva – someone who has attained enlightenment, but chooses to remain in the cycle of samsara (birth, death, and rebirth) to help others achieve liberation.

In short, Tara is known as the “Mother of All Buddhas,” and she embodies compassion, protection, and wisdom. So, there you have it – I’m well covered and set to go.

Indigenous Medicine Hospital

Here is where the old and new collide. The Indigenous Medical Hospital stands right next door to a very modern, western-styled national hospital.

It’s a significant institution that’s dedicated to traditional medicines and medical services, known as “Sowa Rigpa.” This ancient healing system combines medicinal herbal remedies, dietary practices, and spiritual approaches to promote health and well-being.

We got an overall view of the principles of Sowa Rigpa and how it differs from Western medicine. The emphasis is on a holistic lifestyle with the importance of balancing body, mind, and spirit together. In contrast to modern medicine, who’s ethos is, “Here’s a pill, take one every 4 hours.”

Between the Astrology School predictions and the traditional medical services available here, one can live up to the Gross National Happiness with a whole lot less stress and angst than Westerners.

Textile Museum & Paper Making

We visited the Textile Museum twice in downtown Thimphu. The first time, the electricity went off as we were watching the introductory film, and not knowing when it would return, Leki decided we should move on to our next stop.

Next up was a visit to a handcrafted paper workshop; tailor-made for the crafty David. Bhutan has a rich tradition of handcrafted paper, specially made from the bark of the daphne plant (locally called shingkha), known for its unique texture and environmental sustainability.

The papermaking process is an ancient craft that has been passed down through generations. We had the opportunity to watch the fascinating process and learn about this beautiful art form.

My takeaway is that it’s a most labor-intensive process, but the incredible results! I found them at the shop, taking all the time allowed, in selecting some paper for David. If he were there with me, he’d still be there browsing! (Note: he’s already found creative use for his handcrafted paper.)

Back to the Textile Museum … it’s a captivating destination showcasing the country’s incredibly rich, textile heritage. Established to promote and preserve the traditional art of weaving, the museum highlights the intricate craftsmanship of its collection.

The exhibits consist of an extensive collection of beautiful textiles, including traditional garments like the gho and kira, as well as exquisite handmade items such as scarves, blankets and royal gowns.
The history and symbolism of different patterns and colors are emphasized in how they’re used, and in reflecting the country’s cultural identity and traditions.

Finally, it’s retail therapy time! However, I need to pay a visit to my new “friend,” the BOB (Bank of Bhutan). We all took-off in different directions in search for treasures. This is where Thimphu residents shop, so there’s a mix of daily use items and travelers gifts.

Also, here’s where I came across the only cop in the city, named the “dancing cop.” You can’t help but stop and watch his hand movements that keep the traffic flowing; along with his enthusiastic, wild dance steps. He looked like he was having great FUN!

Dinner

On the drive back to the hotel, Leki informed us that someone will come to our rooms at 6pm to dress us up in typical Bhutanese fashion. At dinner, each one of us will be joined by nine school children between the ages of 7 and 12.

As we arrived at the dining room, the kids were quietly sitting at the table. I quickly scanned the room, and his big smile flashed me over; my companion was Shezden, the same name as our driver.

Shezden is an 8-year-old, 3rd grader with a birthday just a few weeks away. What does one talk about to an 8-year old?! No problems, for he started asking questions right away.

His first questions were: “How old was I?” and “Where were you born?” With that, I gave him a quick overview of myself: born in Cuba, migrated to the US, now retired and living in Mexico. He replied, “So, you have lived in three countries? Me, only one.” I showed him the world map on my phone as we were talking.

Then I found out that he has an older brother who likes to play video games with him, especially Minecraft. His favorite color is green, and he loves Anime and the Marvel Universe. Great! A common interest, for I can speak “Iron Man” for days.

Shezden also loves flowers, and tends to a small garden with his grandma. Having 1000 pictures of flowers on my iPhone, I proceeded to show him some. He was totally in awe by how many different flowers there are. His favorite is the blue poppy, the national flower, so I googled a California yellow poppy. He said that he’d love to see it grow in Bhutan, since it would look very pretty next to the blue one.

The boy can eat! He served himself two platefuls of noodles, rice, and vegetables. He asked why I was not eating seconds. I was holding back and waiting for the ice cream. With that, his eyes lit up and he enjoyed two bowlfuls of his favorite flavor, chocolate. With that, I knew there was a connection!

I have to share with you that I had a great, big smile on my face from the minute I sat down until the time we said goodbye. At that, Shezden came over and hugged me. I gave him a gift box of local, yummy cookies that they sold at the hotel. Cookie Monsters Rock!

Afterward, all of us got to share stories about our kids, and like proud parents, each one of us extolled the virtues of our young dining companions … “mine was …the brightest, cutest, smartest” and so on.

What a way to end such unforgettable day in Thimphu. Prayers, takins, Big Buddha, astrology, holistic health and well-being, textiles and paper making. We had a great meal and a conversation shared that transcended generations and nationalities … one world, one people. You bet it was a marathon!
Tomorrow we’ll travel to Punakha.

As seen on the streets …