“Travel far and wide and you should possess the secrets of man.”

– Viking (Norse mythology)

YORK

A vibrant, festive, walled city with ancient Roman roots, and Viking beginnings; throw in a dose of Christianity, and you get York in North Yorkshire, in the NE of England.

York is a must for history and rail buffs with its great medieval structures and 14^th-century walls (2.5 miles) encircling the old city. It’s a magical place for visitors and locals alike, but for Harry Potter fans, it’s extra special thanks to the city’s connection with JK Rowling’s much-loved books. Grab your cloaks and wands and hop on your broomsticks for a spell.

The city was founded as Eboracum by the Romans in 71 AD. In 867, Vikings attacked and captured it, becoming Jórvík, the capital of Viking territory. By 1066, William the Conqueror ended the Scandinavian Norsemen’s rule of the realm.

YORK CATHEDRAL

The 13^th-century Gothic Cathedral, known as York Minster, (minster was what Anglo-Saxons named their important churches prior to William the Conqueror), is the second-largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps. It’s the seat of the Archbishop of York (the first Archbishop was recognized in the year 732), and the third-highest office of the Church of England (after the Queen and Archbishop of Canterbury). It looms impressively over the historic city centre, beautiful on the outside and breathtaking on the inside; with the largest expanse of medieval stained-glass in the world.

With over 2,000 years of history to explore, here’s a short history: Beginning’s start in the 7^th-century with the first stone structure; damaged in 1069 during William the Conqueror’s conquest; The Danes destroyed it in 1075; rebuilt beginning in 1080. The present building was begun in about 1230 and completed in 1472; it’s devoted to Saint Peter.

But one thing that stood out for me differently from all the other cathedrals, was the spectacular choir screen (it separates the nave from the choir area). They’re commonly made of carved stone, or very ornate metal. York Minster’s choir screen is comprised of 15 beautifully, expressively carved stone kings ranging from William the Conqueror to Henry VI; seven to the left and eight to the right – an odd count – couldn’t they have included another king or queen and made it even-steven? The screen was commissioned by King Henry the V; however, he died before its completion.

The iconic and magnificent Minster, rich in history, full of fantastic sights, was another big and unforgettable highlight in England.

JORVIK VIKING CENTRE

Before York was York, it was Jórvík, and the heart of the Viking dominion in England. The city was captured in 866 AD and remained under Norse control until the Norman takeover in 1066 AD.

The Jorvik Viking Centre is not so much a museum as it’s an “experience.” It’s become a top drawer, fun and immersive destination in York’s old city centre. Here, they entertainingly showcase and recreate what living in a Viking village was like in the 10^th-century.

It was created by the York Archaeological Trust after conducting extensive excavation in the Coppergate area. Well-preserved remains of some of the timber buildings of Jorvík were discovered, along with workshops, fences, animal pens, privies; together with durable materials and artefacts of the time, such as pottery, metalwork and bones.

Also found were well-preserved wood, leather, textiles, plant and animal remains from the period around 900 A.D. This was because the items were encased in oxygen-deprived wet clay from the time and kept intact. In all, over 40,000 objects were recovered.

Upon entering, a short introduction is given, and then proceed to the fun part: a mechanical cart ride experience that brings to life the daily life of the thriving town. This is done with innovative animatronics with lifelike mannequins and life-size dioramas depicting home scenes, sounds and smells; as well as pigsties, fish market and latrines. It’s all quite fascinating.

Upon exiting the Disney like ride, you enter the museum exhibition showcasing some amazing finds (over 800 of them) from the excavated site, even proving far-flung commercial trading with the Byzantine Empire. Finally, there’s the gift shop for all wannabe warriors.

I really enjoyed the whole shebang even more because I’d recently watched “The Lost Kingdom,” on Netflix; which centered on the Vikings in York in that time frame and now it became very relatable.

York holds an annual Viking festival the last week in May, and as we were leaving town, hordes of “Vikings” were beginning to appear; getting prepared for their pilferage and town raids (bars!) by these soon-to-be roving drunkards.

THE SHAMBLES

Amble down The Shambles – or should that be Diagon Alley? “A cobblestoned shopping area for the wizarding world, where Hogwarts students can purchase necessary supplies.” Ambling is basically the only way to weave in/out of the massive crowds on York’s famous 14^th-century medieval street, The Shambles (an old word meaning meat market or open-air slaughterhouse). It’s picture postcard perfect, and best seen as early as possible before the masses arrive.

The street is most likely JK Rowling’s inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. Its timber-framed buildings ooze history, charm and magic. Formerly a street of butchers’ shops adorned with hanging meat, and with raw sewage running along it; it was purposely kept very narrow by design to keep the meat out of direct sunlight. A street that could tell a story or two.

Potterheads were lined up at The Potions Cauldron at No. 9 ¾ (!) serving up “the most magical drinks in the world!” and to experience their magical apothecary.

Also, there’s The Shop that Must Not be Named, complete with all things Harry Potter and gifts for the discerning witch or wizard; with a cast of Potter-mad staff and complete with broomstick parking. It’s the ideal place to pick up those necessary back-to-school items: House uniforms, quill and ink, spell books, robes, wands, scarves and ties … hard choices to make.

Though not a big Harry Porter fan, I enjoyed the ambiance of The Shambles. On the other hand, David binged-watched all eight films; in prepping for the Broadway musical, “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child” in 2018. To those Potterheads, I say, “Happy wizarding! And may the force be with you!”

A stop at The Hebden Tea shop along The Shambles was more our speed and we snapped up some more Blood Orange loose tea and their exotic Cheeky Monkey concoction, a rooibos tropical fruit herbal blend; a more sensible and relaxing sort of potion for the soul.

NATIONAL RAILWAY MUSEUM

Little boys love trains and this one is no different. The National Railway Museum, tells 200 years of rail history and transport in Britain and its great impact on society. The museum prides itself on showcasing great and storied British railway innovations. It’s an easy walk from our hotel along York’s City Walls. And, by the way, entry is free (donation requested).

The National Railway Museum has one of the largest collections of rail artefacts in the world, with over 6000 objects shown in the huge complex; including around 100 locomotives or rolling stock.

This is revealed in the Great Hall, where an amazing display of some great iron horses set up as a roundhouse surrounding the turntable. Even if you’re not a big train buff, there’s exhibits and memorabilia that will attract your attention.

It’s home to a collection of historically significant railway vehicles such as: Mallard (world’s fastest steam locomotive), Stirling Single, Duchess of Hamilton, and the iconic Japanese 0 Series Shinkansen, the first-generation high-speed vehicle, introduced in 1964. It was donated to the museum by the West Japan Railway Company, and is the only Shinkansen train exhibited outside Japan.

There are approximately 280 rail vehicles in the National Collection, with around 100 being shown at York at any one time.  The earliest are wagonway vehicles, circa 1815. The permanent display includes “Palaces on Wheels”, a collection of Royal Train carriages/salons from Queen Victoria’s early trains through to those used by Queen Elizabeth II up to the 1970s. It was fun peeking inside and seeing the elegant furnishings and decor. Those royals sure knew how to travel in style and comfort riding the tracks throughout Great Britain.

It was a choo choo day, and I, the happy engineer. David, I just drag him along. He found his own moment standing in amazement beside these iron behemoths of the rails. This visit is inspiring me for our next trip via train travel vs. car. Oh, the possibilities …

*** Harry Potter film site: across the way is York Station, used in the first film where Harry and Hagrid are crossing the pedestrian bridge to find Platform 9 ¾ (see The Potions Cauldron, #9 ¾ on The Shambles).

ACCOMODATIONS

The Grand, our aptly named hotel in York, was originally built in 1906 as the North Eastern Railway Company’s headquarters and a “palace of business.” It’s another iconic landmark, sitting grandly across from the City Wall, and conveniently located right smack in the heart of historic York.

Their highly rated restaurant, “The Rise,” added to our culinary adventures: a delicious orange infused cocktail; pasta carbonara; glazed, sweet carrots that melted in your mouth; a beautiful haddock sitting atop a vegetable hash and crowned with salmon eggs. Dessert: a deconstructed coconut rice pudding, a bit too sweet for my taste, but perfect for my little sugar addict.

Their Yorkshire breakfast buffet had an appealing and bountiful selection, too many to mention; this in addition to their made-to-order menu. Eating a hardy breakfast got us started off each day and helped us sail through a busy day.

As for York dining, we found a highly rated Chinese restaurant, Red Chilli, a few minutes’ walk from our hotel. Chinese is one of my favorite foods and we’re unable to find a good, authentic version of it anywhere in Mexico, so when traveling, it’s a must.

We walked in and were told they’d be closing in 15 minutes! This was due to the electricity being turned off on the street by the municipal electric company for repairs/upgrades. This wasn’t good, as we were salivating for Chinese. So, we asked if we could still order food for takeaway. Yes, but we could eat there, just needed to order right away before the electricity went off.

A quick order was made, quickly prepared, and quickly slobbered all down: green beans with crispy pork, lemon chicken, egg rolls, fried rice and soft-shell crab … a feast for a king! All delivered before the lights went out. We sat and relished every bite with only daylight illuminating the restaurant from the big picture windows facing onto the street. As we were finishing up the last morsels, the lights came back on. Hallelujah ~ all was good in the world and a terrific meal was had with a backstory attached.

York and its iconic and magnificent Minster, rich in history, full of fantastic sights, was a big highlight in England for us. A return visit to York would now include seeing David’s former West Hollywood roommate, Jeff, and his Irish hubby, Damien, who we got to dine with our final evening in England. They just bought their first house in York (Mazel tov!). We’ll have to remember to pack some of our finest glad rags in Viking regalia. Skol, mates!