“Vancouver: where you pack sunglasses, an umbrella, and a fleece – for a 20-minute walk.” – Anonymous

Cruising Alaska

It would be remiss of me and it must be said with sincerity and a tender apology to my readers, and especially to my beloved sister-in-law, Beth, whose long-held dream of sailing through Alaskan waters inspired this cruise and for its long delay in sharing these memories.

Life has a way of crowding the pages before we have a chance to write them, and sometimes even the most precious stories must wait for our hearts and minds to catch up. As it’s been said, “Life happens.”

Since that voyage, other travels have come and gone, each beautiful in its own way, each adding its own color to the tapestry of my days. But Alaska, the 49^th State, rests in a different part of my traveling soul.

This wasn’t just a trip – it was the fulfillment of Beth’s dream. For years she had imagined the quiet thunder of glaciers, the silver dance of sunlight on icy waters, and the feeling of standing small, yet safe beneath mountains that seem to cradle the sky. To be able to accompany her, and to witness her joy, wonderment, and her long awaited “Finally, I’m here!!” was a privilege I will always hold close.

And yes, some time has passed since the late summer Holland America cruise. You may wonder how I remember the details with such clarity. The answer lies somewhere between sentiment and truth: I may sometimes forget the name of someone I met only moments ago, but places that touch me, and memorable meals that nourish more than just the body, all remain etched within.

As people say, an elephant never forgets… and in matters of journeys that shape the heart and flavors that linger long after the last bite, I admit I have the soul of a gentle pachyderm.

Vancouver, British Columbia

Our adventure began in Vancouver, a city set in the most spectacular, natural environment. I first got to experience and love it during the winter of 2009; as I toiled there as a software consultant; travelling back and forth to Los Angeles on a weekly basis. Fact – I had to get a Canadian social security number during my stint there and pay Canadian taxes!

Vancouver’s motto, “By Sea, Land, and Air We Prosper,” sums up its natural beauty that contributes to its great success. With mountains at my back and the Pacific at my feet, it struck me right away this city feels like it grew from the forest itself.

The color blue is strongly associated with Vancouver, representing its surrounding sea and sky, and its official city colors; appearing on the its flag.

The Coast Salish people’s Musqueam, Squamish, and the Tsleil-Waututh First Nations all lived here long before the city had a name, shaping their lives around plentiful salmon runs, cedar trees, and the tides.

The 2010 Winter Olympics jump-started Vancouver’s prominence on the world’s stage. Today, there’s sleek glass towers, sushi bars, and film crews on every corner, but scratch the surface and you’ll find echoes of resilience with its indigenous roots, immigrant grit, and the strong determination of a port city that grew into a significant Pacific hub.

Our home for the next few nights will be the historic, and charming Sylvia Hotel, perfectly located smack in the center of the trendy English Bay district. Its ivy covered front spills down its brick walls like a green waterfall; making a great initial impact upon arrival.

Checking-in felt less like entering a hotel and more like stepping into a novel, vintage 1912 (the year it opened). The elevator rattled slowly and delightfully to our floor, and our corner room opened onto a pretty view of the beach; just steps away.

David and I arrived a day earlier than Beth and her BFF, Annabelle, so we had a chance to walk the nearby colorful and eclectic Denman Street; browsing its small cafés, shops, and multicultural restaurants.

We enjoyed breakfast al fresco at the tiny Café Portrait, with its eclectic artists’ themed menu: MATISSE’S avocado toast, and CÉZANNE’S Turkish eggs and sausage were popular choices to savor.

Canada’s Dollarama chain, equivalent to a US dollar store, lured us in with its nicely arranged long aisles; all laid-out with massive amounts of cheap stuff, and a junk food shopper’s paradise to browse through. It got me immediately thinking of supplying my summer art camp 2025; happily making some purchases for the kids’ projects.

Bake shops! There’s always one in our path … Breka Bakery & Café is a beloved, local institution in Vancouver, known for its wide selection of baked goods, sandwiches, and beverages; all available 24/7, 365 days a year.  Lucky for us it was in the middle of the day, my usual coffee-craving time, to sweeten up the afternoon’s stroll.

A-MAZE-ING LAUGHTER!

Our stroll brought us down towards the end where Denman Street meets the ocean, where we came upon fourteen, giant bronze figures frozen in mid-laughter, arms flung wide, bodies doubled over, and mouths open in unrestrained joy.

“A-maze-ing Laughter,” was created by artist, Yue Minjun, for the 2009 Vancouver Art Biennale. The jolly figures remain to give passers-by something to happily revel in and brighten their day.

The figures happen to be self-portraits of the artist, each frozen in a state of hysterical laughter with their amplified expressions: mouths wide open and eyes squeezed shut. They invite spectators an immediate, emotional reaction of laughter, smiles and joy, but also some tension, as the statues are silent and frozen in space and time.

Each one stands about 8.5 feet tall; made of patinated cast-bronze, and weighing over 250 kg for the complete set.

Children climbed playfully on top of them, darting between the figures as if playing hide-and-seek.

Up close, the bronze felt cool under my hand; the scale overwhelming …each towering over me with their immensity. Despite their stillness, they projected a strange energy, as though the laughter might burst into sound at any second. It was infectious, but also a little eerie – a monumental and permanent joy to behold on the waterfront.

I sat on a nearby stone bench, where an inscription reads: “May this sculpture inspire laughter, playfulness and joy in all who experience it.” It did many times over!

Big Red Bus / Granville Island

With our party of four all in, we set off on a glorious, sunny, late August day to explore Vancouver on a HOHO bus (Hop On/Hop Off), this one nicknamed Big Red. What could be more fun and instructive in showing off this glorious city?!

We hopped on at Robson Street, the main shopping artery. From the top deck, shoppers below us moved between chic storefronts and little cafés tucked into leafy side streets.

We rolled into the trendy West End, where the buildings blended into the tree-lined, residential streets. In a few turns, the city’s noise melted into birdsong as we entered the great Stanley Park. The air was cooler here, fresh with cedar and sea salt. The bus hugged the seawall, opening to postcard views of the Lions Gate Bridge and the North Shore mountains.

Leaving the green embrace of the park, we headed past Canada Place, its white sails gleaming against a striking blue sky. The Coal Harbour marina contained yachts gleaming against glassy skyscrapers. The harbour, too, was alive with docked cruise ships, and seaplanes skimming the water like dragonflies.

The bus wound back into the downtown core and headed towards the eclectic Gastown district with its cobblestones, brick façades, and the famous Gastown Steam Clock. Chinatown soon followed as we passed through its grand entrance, the ornate Millennium Gate.

lululemon, the lifestyle sports apparel company, has its large campus headquarters in Vancouver. It appeared as we approached the artsy spirit that is Granville Island. Here’s where we all hopped-off without hesitation in great anticipation and excitement.

It couldn’t have been a better day. The sun bounced off the waters of False Creek, and the tiny ferries crisscrossing the inlet gave the area a charming, almost storybook energy. It was infectious.

Granville Island’s Public Market is a feast for the senses … featuring vivid rows of fresh, seasonal produce: juicy berries, fragrant herbs, and vibrantly-colored vegetables all piled high in the stalls. The smell of fresh-baked breads and roasted coffee permeate the air to entice.

David couldn’t resist a box of freshly baked, scrumptious donuts from famous Lee’s Donuts (since 1979!), a Vancouverite’s favored treat. We joined the fast moving queue and enjoyed their iconic sweet donuts with a latte; enjoying and joining in with the bustling crowds.

Just outside the market, local artisans’ shops beckoned. Handmade jewelry glinted in the sunlight, luscious textiles beckon you to feel them, pottery sat in careful displays. The island itself felt like a balance between urban energy and a peaceful retreat. It’s a tourist’s paradise unlike any other.   

Before leaving, we had an alfresco dinner at the Sandbar Restaurant overlooking False Creek as the water was shimmering and kayaks lazily paddled by. The seafood was sublime in all its forms.

After soaking in the colors, smells and treats of Granville Island, we decided to continue the day on foot, following the Seawall back towards English Bay and the Sylvia Hotel. The path was wide and well-paved, hugging the waterfront, with the city skyline to my right and sparkling water to my left.

Cyclists whizzed past, joggers nodded in passing, and families paused on benches to take in the views. David stopped occasionally to snap photos of the skyline framed by the deep blue of False Creek.

Approaching English Bay, the scenery shifted subtly. The harbor gave way to open water, and the beach stretched wide, dotted with sunbathers, picnickers, and paddleboarders. My legs were pleasantly tired, and with a day well spent, I felt completely grounded in the rhythm of the city.

Butchart’s Gardens, Victoria

A gentle ferry boat ride across the Salish Sea and its network of waterways passes small, forested islands dotting the water. The spectacular scenery, along with dolphin sightings, playfully joining alongside provides a bucolic ride to Victoria and the fabulous Butchart Gardens.

The fast pace of the city gives way to a slower calm on this 26 nautical mile mini cruise. Victoria is the capital city of British Columbia, situated on the southern tip of Vancouver Island. A shuttle bus brings us to the famous gardens in 40 minutes.

Robert Pim Butchart, a pioneer in the cement industry, had mined his quarry on the island since the early 1900s. When the limestone was exhausted, the quarry left behind a barren scar.

It was Jennie Butchart, Robert’s wife, who saw a vision of beauty and possibility in the ugly emptiness. Around 1904, she began transforming the pit into a garden, hauling in soil by horse and cart and planting every corner with flowers and trees.

What could have remained an industrial wasteland slowly blossomed into what is now the Sunken Garden, the heart of Butchart Gardens and its most famous creation. The gardens would continue to expand with new layers of imagination.

The minute you step through the gates is like slipping into a colorful dreamscape stitched together with flowers. The air itself seemed different, perfumed with roses and damp earth, and every path teased us toward a new floral discovery.

The Sunken Garden was our first stop, and it felt like descending into a secret world. Once a quarry, it’s now transformed into terraced beds spilling over with color. From above, it seemed a painting; heading down among the blooms, it was a living maze of textures: snapdragons, begonias, geraniums in every imaginable shade; all competing for my attention.

The spectacular central fountain leapt skyward; its droplets catching the light like glass. Its continually dancing waters created fascinating shapes to mesmerize appreciative patrons.

David’s head was endlessly swiveling – not knowing which way to look. By this time, Beth and Annabelle wandered off in their own direction to explore the magnificent grounds.

Wandering about in the Japanese Garden, it felt like I was being transported back to Japan, with its quiet pools and arched bridges. It’s soothing and quiet, inviting us to linger in the hush of maples beginning to turn delicate shades of colors. A koi flickered beneath the water, adding to the Japanese sensibility and serenity.

The Rose Garden was a riot of scent with its velvety petals in crimson, apricot, and pale blush; each one seemingly more perfect than the last – their names catching your imagination: Desert Peace, Modern Blush, Sexy Rexy and the Jennie Butchart (a hybrid red ‘tea rose’ named for the founder). Many famous names (Hello Julia Child and Neil Diamond!) have a rose dedicated to them – the ultimate in lasting fame.

By the time we reached the gift shop and tea house, our shoes carried traces of gravel dust, and our camera roll overflowed with colorful, bright blossoms, but I realized the photos couldn’t quite capture what the gardens stirred in me. Not just all this beauty, but a great sense of gratitude in realizing someone once imagined an abandoned quarry becoming this incredible sanctuary and brought it to life.

By afternoon, we headed into Victoria for a quick visit. The city has changed much since my last visit, but still retains a refined charm, like an old town dressed-up in its Pacific Northwest freshness.

Its Inner Harbour shimmered with sailboats and seaplanes coming and going; framed by the grand Parliament Buildings and the ivy-clad Fairmont Empress Hotel.

It was hard to leave. Victoria had charmed me once again with its graceful harbour, historic buildings, and the gentle rhythm of life that felt both elegant and unhurried. Butchart Gardens casts its own kind of magical spell.

Tomorrow, we set sail.

As seen on the streets…..