“Whatever causes you to drop your plan forward and open to your vision, your own, deeply personal vision of what your life could be at its very best, that’s what I call meeting your rhinoceros.” – Martha Nibley Beck, American sociologist

Himalayan Safari

It’s early morning, and we’re back again at the airport for a flight to southern Nepal for a visit to Chitwan National Park. Our guide informed us that the flight should take approximately 20 minutes (!). It sure beats the 5-to-7-hour bus drive that’s so romanticized in the travel brochures, and with the recent floods, parts of the road aren’t easily passable, so it could take even longer.
So, I asked myself – does a 20-minute flight even offer up refreshments? I decided to use the iPhone’s stopwatch feature and timed the flight from wheels-up to wheels-down, and it lasted …

Chitwan National Park

We landed in Bharatpur, Nepal’s third largest city, in the Chitwan District. Immediately upon deplaning, we were slapped-in-the-face with tropical humidity. This weather stayed with us for the next few days. A special thanks to The Buddha for the comfort of our air-conditioned bus.

The Chitwan Valley in southern Nepal is known for its rich biodiversity and natural beauty. We drove through picturesque small villages and rice fields until arriving at our hotal, the Temple Tiger Green Resort, nestled on the banks of the Narayani River and bordering Chitwan National Park.

Chitwan National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the best-preserved wildlife parks in Asia, established in 1973. It’s Nepal’s first national park and covers an area of 596 square miles in the subtropical Terai region, which is the lowland area near the southern border with India.

Within its boundaries, is a spectacular assemblage of large mammals in Asia, with over seven hundred species of wildlife, including the endangered greater one-horned rhinoceros, Asian elephants, Bengal tiger, common leopard, gharial crocodile, and for avid birdwatchers, various species of birds.

Rhinos

No sooner had we checked-in, than we were off on our first Jeep Safari, along with two experienced naturalists who shared insights into the region’s flora and fauna.

Soon came our first sighting of a pair of male rhinoceros lazily enjoying their sunny afternoon in the grasslands. Over the next two days we’ll see two sets of mother and baby rhinoceros, along with other males.

One of the questions asked of our naturalist was the difference between the Asian and African rhinos. The short answer is a vast difference.

The Asian and African rhinoceroses are two distinct groups of species, and while they share some common characteristics, they differ significantly in terms of appearance, habitat, and behavior.

First, there’s the number of horns – African rhinos typically have two horns, while Asian rhinos may have one or two. Size – African rhinos tend to be larger, with the white rhino being the largest. The Sumatran rhino is the smallest.

Their skin – Asian rhinos, especially the Indian and Javan species, have thick, folded skin that resembles armor.

And those lips – white rhinos have square lips for grazing, while black rhinos and Asian rhinos have prehensile lips for browsing – meaning adapted to grasp by wrapping around.

Both African and Asian rhinos face serious threats, but the Asian species, particularly the Javan and Sumatran rhinos, are sadly closer to extinction.

Unfortunately, we never came across a Bengal tiger, although our naturalist suddenly stopped our safari vehicle, and showed us fresh tiger’s and deer tracks. Oh, dear, we wondered, “Did the deer make for the tiger’s meal?

Predicting the size and weight of a tiger from its tracks involves analyzing the size and shape of the pugmarks (footprints). Our guide took out a measuring tape and gave us a picture of the size and sex of the tiger by following a mathematical formula that estimates the tiger’s physical attributes.

This included measuring the length of the track from the front tip of the pad to the rear edge and measuring the widest part of the track across the toes. He also noted the shape of the central pad and the spacing of the toes, all of which can help distinguish between male and female tigers. Are you following?

After his calculations were done, he informed us that it was a female tiger weighing between 220 and 350 pounds. Then, using our imaginations, we could visualize this most beautiful animal.

The term “Nepalese tiger” generally refers to the Bengal tiger population found in the subtropical forests, grasslands, and riverine areas of the Terai region. The tigers are listed as “endangered” by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature), but thanks to ongoing conservation efforts, the tiger population in Nepal has been showing signs of recovery, with the population nearly doubling from 121 tigers in 2009 to over 235 in 2022.

Our safari adventure ended with lunch served riverside and a canoe trip, under a blazing sun, down the Narayani River, which is a significant tributary of the Ganges in India. A single gharial crocodile was spotted sunbathing on the riverbanks. Visions of “The African Queen” played out in my mind as “The Asian Queen.”

Back at the resort, we were treated to a talk about Asian elephants …

Elephants

Asian and African elephants are the two primary species of elephants, and while they share many similarities, like Rhinos, they also have some distinct differences.

The African Elephant is the largest land animal on Earth, the Asian is slightly smaller. Ear shape: African has much larger ears that resemble the shape of the African continent; the Asian has smaller, more rounded ears.

Head shape: African’s a fuller, more rounded head with a single dome, whereas the Asian has a twin-domed head with an indentation running down the middle.

Then there’s the trunk: African Elephant has two finger-like projections at the tip, which allow them to grasp objects with precision. Asian Elephant – the trunk has only one finger-like projection, which is less dexterous compared to the African elephant’s trunk. As the naturalists listed all their differences, it came to light that they’re both just majestic, magnificent creatures of nature.

Both species of elephants are vulnerable due to habitat loss and poaching, though forest elephants are more critically endangered than their savannah counterparts. These differences help each species adapt to their respective environments, making them distinct despite their common ancestry.

Tharu Villages

Getting to and from the National Reserve, we had to drive through small Tharu villages filled with smiling, welcoming people. We lucked-out because it was Dashain, Nepal’s biggest Hindu festival; celebrated for 15 days in October. Families gather in their traditional villages. We were privileged to spend a late afternoon walking through one and experience firsthand the joyous holiday.

The Tharu or “People of the Forest” is an indigenous ethnic group primarily found in the southern Terai region of Nepal and parts of northern India. They have a rich cultural heritage, deeply connected to nature and the environment.

The village houses are often made of a combination of mud, bamboo, and thatch. These materials provide insulation against the heat during summer and cold during winter. Homes are typically single storied with intricate designs on the walls; many are painted with colorful geometric patterns or animal figures.

The Tharu people are known for their distinctive, traditional dances, music, and festivals; many are tied to agricultural cycles or religious beliefs. The women often wear unique, colorful clothing: skirts, blouses, and shawls, and adorn themselves with bright, silver jewelry.

Tharu society is organized into clans, and each village may have a “badghar” (village head) who plays a significant role in local governance. Social ties and communal activities are essential, with villagers often working together during festivals, agricultural activities, and religious rituals.

In our village walk, we came across locals enjoying a dice game called Jhanda Burja, a popular pastime during Dashain; which brings families and friends together for entertainment and friendly wagers. I got to join in on the games, quickly betting 100 Nepalese Rupees (equivalent to 75 cents). My winnings rose to 1,000 Rupees. Yippee! But, just as quickly, lost it all in one hand. Besides, it was time to move on and continue our walk.

Jhanda Burja is a version of “Craps,” where the object of the game is to predict the outcome of the dice rolls. Instead of numbers, symbols are used: flag, crown, brick, leaf, bird, and sword. The board displays symbols to help players place their bets. The banker then rolls all six dice at once.

Payouts are based on how many dice show the chosen symbol …1 symbol matches equal the amount of the bet; 2 = double, 3 = triple and so on. The banker collects losing bets and pays-out winners based on the dice outcome.

The game is enjoyed by all ages, although gambling is illegal in Nepal, but the authorities turn a blind-eye during Dashain, due to its great social bonding, and adds to the festive atmosphere. The unpredictability of dice rolls, and potential winnings adds excitement. Everyone comes away as a winner.

Charity … Gate 1 Travel supports schools in the Tharu Villages by providing supplies on every tour. We were scheduled to visit a school, but they were closed for the duration of the festival. So, Anup, our tour leader, decided to hand them out as we drove through the villages. At every stop we got mobbed by adults and children, as we handed out the school supplies. What was wonderful to witness were all their happy faces, which was just one BIG SMILE!

Our last night at the resort we enjoyed a dance presentation by the Tharu People under a star-filled sky.
Tomorrow is another short hop of a flight; this time to Pokhara, Nepal’s second largest city.

As seen from the road …

The world’s smallest soda bottle purchased at the airport.